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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 06-20-2005, 02:29 PM   #13396
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crimson eagle
I was going to give you all a little respect for your advancing years but then I thought.... Hell no.

Bring all the sauce you can, you will all be self basting turkeys when the weekend comes around.

Chris
OK that's it. I'm changing my screen name.

Henchforth I shall be known as "Purple Phoenix", as I have risen from the ashes and shat my phoenix-doody on Crimson Chicken's windshield, blinding him. I will motor away from him in perpetuity with most excellent horsepower and tidiest of line!

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Old 06-20-2005, 02:48 PM   #13397
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Quote:
Originally Posted by losixxx
I am running Flanged berings (Parma/PSEtires) on my Rug Rat with the l4 front end and stock titanium axels I actually had to add more shims than when I had jaco front tires. I would doubt that they would be to short because allot of people run trc tires on stock l4 axles.
Just my 2 cents
(o and threded axles(lunsford titanium)are only $10 dollars)
I run TRC's with Lundsford Ti axles and it's a perfect fit with no shims
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Old 06-20-2005, 02:55 PM   #13398
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Quote:
Originally Posted by losixxx
The little white shims/washers change caster. I would start with one on each side as per the directions then when you hit the track you can tune from there to suit your driving and the track style. O and with 2 white shims their should be No play i have never heard of that or seen anyone run 3+ shims before.
Just my 2cents
Yes that's what i got at the moment.. but i want to know what is the difference if i put both shims to the front or to the back? what are the pros and cons for each of those setting?
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Old 06-20-2005, 03:46 PM   #13399
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow15
Yes that's what i got at the moment.. but i want to know what is the difference if i put both shims to the front or to the back? what are the pros and cons for each of those setting?
Putting both shims in back will increase caster, which will give more on-power steering, but less turn in. Both shims in front will be the opposite.
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Old 06-20-2005, 04:15 PM   #13400
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Thanks odpurple. back increase caster front decrease. got it.

But i thought more caster will increase turn in??
i want to make the car's steering slightly less sensitive and my impression after reading some of the reply here is that i should use a 0 or 5 degree suspension arm mount instead of the 10degree one to decrease the caster... or i completely wrong??
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Old 06-20-2005, 04:36 PM   #13401
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odpurlpe-do they run negative caster in the 12L? Because if not, when you put shims in the front you will be adding positive caster which is what they run on touring cars.
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Old 06-20-2005, 04:41 PM   #13402
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow15
Thanks odpurple. back increase caster front decrease. got it.

But i thought more caster will increase turn in??
i want to make the car's steering slightly less sensitive and my impression after reading some of the reply here is that i should use a 0 or 5 degree suspension arm mount instead of the 10degree one to decrease the caster... or i completely wrong??
not completely. Changing the reactive caster blocks and changing the caster are two different things. With 10 degree blocks the caster decreases as the suspension compresses, making turn-in progressively harder. With 0 degree blocks the caster does not change as the suspension compresses so this makes the steering feel less sensitive.
What you are adjusting with the white shims is the static, or un-compressed caster.
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Old 06-20-2005, 04:53 PM   #13403
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Quote:
Originally Posted by polesitter61
odpurlpe-do they run negative caster in the 12L? Because if not, when you put shims in the front you will be adding positive caster which is what they run on touring cars.
Caster is the kingpin angle. I've never heard it refered to as positive or negative, like camber. Caster is always set so the kingpin leans back from the vertical. On a 12L with one shim in front and one in the back you get 4 degrees of static caster. Two shims forward gets you 2 deg and two back makes 6 degrees. With 10 deg blocks on the car the caster decreases 2 degrees as the suspension compresses to full travel. So with two shims forward you get 2 to 0 deg caster, and with two shims back you get 6 to 4 deg. With 0 degree blocks there is no caster change. Obviously, the 5 deg blocks are in between.
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Old 06-20-2005, 04:54 PM   #13404
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
not completely. Changing the reactive caster blocks and changing the caster are two different things. With 10 degree blocks the caster decreases as the suspension compresses, making turn-in progressively harder. With 0 degree blocks the caster does not change as the suspension compresses so this makes the steering feel less sensitive.
What you are adjusting with the white shims is the static, or un-compressed caster.

okie. so
1. More caster = less turn in, steering is less sensitive.

2. the shims are static castor and the 0/5/10 degree block is reactive caster. The larger degree block i use, the less caster i'll get at the corner when the suepnsion compresses. So 0 degree block actually give me the less and more consistant turn-in. am i right?

3. How can i calculate the overall caster?

e.g. if i use 5 degree block and one shim on each side, what is the caster?
and how about if i use 0 degree block and 2 shims at the back? \

Thanks and sorry about having so many questions
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Old 06-20-2005, 04:59 PM   #13405
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oh i think you have answered all my questions in your previous post. thanks a lot!
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Old 06-20-2005, 05:05 PM   #13406
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow15
okie. so
1. More caster = less turn in, steering is less sensitive.

2. the shims are static castor and the 0/5/10 degree block is reactive caster. The larger degree block i use, the less caster i'll get at the corner when the suepnsion compresses. So 0 degree block actually give me the less and more consistant turn-in. am i right?

3. How can i calculate the overall caster?

e.g. if i use 5 degree block and one shim on each side, what is the caster?
and how about if i use 0 degree block and 2 shims at the back? \

Thanks and sorry about having so many questions
1. Yes, but the blocks have the biggest effect on the sensitivity.

2. Yes

3. See above reply to polesitter61
One shim back and one shim front gives you 4 degrees of static caster
regardless of which block you have installed.
5 deg block with one shim each side is 4 deg static caster.
0 deg block with 2 shims back will be 6 deg static caster.
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Old 06-20-2005, 06:28 PM   #13407
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yellow15.......If you want to make the steering just a litltle less sensitive try widening the front end (.020 per side will make a difference). The shims for the front axle are the same as shims for armatures.

polesitter......You must not have seen a 12l front end. It uses the upper arm to set castor. Just the opposite of a touring car. To increase castor on a touring car (that doesn't use castor blocks) you move the lower arms forward. On a 12l the upper arm is moved towards the back of the car.
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Old 06-20-2005, 06:45 PM   #13408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crimson eagle
Ok, you three wise asses,

You are going to make me run those cheater tires you have been playing with aren't you? You may want to prepare for Ripon next week by putting an encyclopeadia down the back of your pants as I'm going to give you all such an ass whooping it will verge on elder abuse.

Fun time is over, next week you will all be wondering who your daddy is....

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I love the "elder abuse" statement!
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Old 06-20-2005, 07:22 PM   #13409
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Originally Posted by Crashby
I love the "elder abuse" statement!
Makes me wonder which side I should be siding with...:???:
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Old 06-21-2005, 01:00 PM   #13410
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If anybody can help i need the dynamic front strut kit for the 12L3 part #4401 thanks (i already posted in the wanted forum but no luck)
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