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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 06-19-2005, 09:49 AM   #13366
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mounting the steering buckles on the wrong servo saver hole will make a car bump steer even using stock servo mount.
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Old 06-19-2005, 09:57 AM   #13367
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dakrat
mounting the steering buckles on the wrong servo saver hole will make a car bump steer even using stock servo mount.
Which holes should you take?
I'm running a Corally if that matters, but not with the orginal (corally) steering linkages. I'm using turnbuckles from Xray and now it looks similair to a L4 (or something like that) steering system.
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Old 06-19-2005, 10:07 AM   #13368
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tekin
Which holes should you take?
I'm running a Corally if that matters, but not with the orginal (corally) steering linkages. I'm using turnbuckles from Xray and now it looks similair to a L4 (or something like that) steering system.

i havent seen a corally with regular steering linkage so i have no idea. why did u switch it? corally has the best steering linkage IMO. it has a slop that makes it run straight and give u maximum steering on corners.
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Old 06-19-2005, 10:27 AM   #13369
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ballsie
Please forgive my ignorance but where can you get the purple anodized parts for the L4 / Hara Hammer?

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...chmentid=67557

Thanks.
IRS has purple motor pod plates but they are not like the plates on Hara's car in your picture. The IRS plates use a three hole top plate and Hara is using a four hole top plate of which I have never seen before. Trinity used to sell purple ball studs and purple 4-40 lock nuts but I have not checked in a while. Fastener Express also has purple hardware for real cheap.

As far as the rest of the purple pieces in the picture, I am guessing that Hara had them done especially for him.

Anodizing is not that expensive but your challenge would be to find a shop that would be willing to do small pieces and small quantities. My team mate found a web site that sold "do it yourself" anodizing kits. What you get in the kit is all of the chemicals and instructions on how to set up the anodizing tanks and equipment, on a small scale, in your home.
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Old 06-19-2005, 04:15 PM   #13370
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i've got my L4 for a few weeks now and still learning how to drive it. I've raced it both indoor and outdoor once so far and really loving it. Unfortunately i still have handling issues that i don't know how to fix.

Anyway, yesterday i raced at our local outdoor track. I used a brand new set of Jaco tyres. (purple front and pink rear), the first race the handling was okie and i had a few crashes but still managed to came 2nd. I swapped the rear left/right tyre before the next race.. but then from 2nd race, my car doesn't really like to do left turns. everytime i turn left, i have to really slow down my car or it'll just understeer a lot. It turns right with no problem at all and is very sensitive. so i wonder why is it and how to fix it? the tweak screws are adjusted properly. All the wheels spin freely and i don't see anythign wrong/broken.

Motor is a 8 turn double (getting a V2 9x2), steering exp is -45% and steering throw is symetrical. Toe-in is about 1-2 degree each side. Camber is about -1 degree on both side. I'm using the thicker T-bar at the moment with 0.22 springs.

I've got similar problem at my first indoor race so i really want to find out what is going wrong with my car..

my 2nd question, since i've decided to race both on carpet and outdoor.. i wonder if there is a setting that is OKIE for both? I don't mind changing the front springs everytime as it's only a 5-10 mins job but changing the T-Bar seems to be too trouble and i have to take half the car apart... so what would you guys suggest me to do?

Thanks a lot.
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Old 06-19-2005, 04:39 PM   #13371
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dakrat
i havent seen a corally with regular steering linkage so i have no idea. why did u switch it? corally has the best steering linkage IMO. it has a slop that makes it run straight and give u maximum steering on corners.
I'm using the "AE style" steering linkage because I wanted to try something different. The corally steering linkage is really good, but it has 0 dergees ackermann, and I wanted to play with that. That's why I changed it, now I can adjust the ackermann better. I haven't really tried it out yet, so I can't say if it's better or not.

About that hara car, that's based on a Kawada and the rear end is also made by them. As far as I know most of the purple anodized parts he has are custom made.
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Old 06-19-2005, 06:11 PM   #13372
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow15
i've got my L4 for a few weeks now and still learning how to drive it. I've raced it both indoor and outdoor once so far and really loving it. Unfortunately i still have handling issues that i don't know how to fix.

Anyway, yesterday i raced at our local outdoor track. I used a brand new set of Jaco tyres. (purple front and pink rear), the first race the handling was okie and i had a few crashes but still managed to came 2nd. I swapped the rear left/right tyre before the next race.. but then from 2nd race, my car doesn't really like to do left turns. everytime i turn left, i have to really slow down my car or it'll just understeer a lot. It turns right with no problem at all and is very sensitive. so i wonder why is it and how to fix it? the tweak screws are adjusted properly. All the wheels spin freely and i don't see anythign wrong/broken.

Motor is a 8 turn double (getting a V2 9x2), steering exp is -45% and steering throw is symetrical. Toe-in is about 1-2 degree each side. Camber is about -1 degree on both side. I'm using the thicker T-bar at the moment with 0.22 springs.

I've got similar problem at my first indoor race so i really want to find out what is going wrong with my car..

my 2nd question, since i've decided to race both on carpet and outdoor.. i wonder if there is a setting that is OKIE for both? I don't mind changing the front springs everytime as it's only a 5-10 mins job but changing the T-Bar seems to be too trouble and i have to take half the car apart... so what would you guys suggest me to do?

Thanks a lot.
Turning tighter radius in one direction more than the other is a classic sign that the car is tweaked.

Anytime you swap tires from one side to the other, it is essential that you recheck the tweak in the car, meaning that when you lift the front of the car at the center of the chassis, both tires should come off the surface at the same time. Because foam tires wear unevenly due to track layouts (more right turns than left turns or high speed sweeping corners) the tweak gets off. Always get in the habit of checking your tweak before every run. It should become a pre-race routine. At important races, I will re-true the tires before every run and then check the tweak.
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Old 06-19-2005, 06:16 PM   #13373
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashby
Turning tighter radius in one direction more than the other is a classic sign that the car is tweaked.

Anytime you swap tires from one side to the other, it is essential that you recheck the tweak in the car, meaning that when you lift the front of the car at the center of the chassis, both tires should come off the surface at the same time. Because foam tires wear unevenly due to track layouts (more right turns than left turns or high speed sweeping corners) the tweak gets off. Always get in the habit of checking your tweak before every run. It should become a pre-race routine. At important races, I will re-true the tires before every run and then check the tweak.
And after you've made sure that the tweak is set, check the steering end points. On the track, make right hand circles and then left hand circles at full steering lock. The circles must be the same size, right to left, or the car will have more steering in one direction than the other.
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Old 06-19-2005, 08:30 PM   #13374
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow15
i've got my L4 for a few weeks now and still learning how to drive it. I've raced it both indoor and outdoor once so far and really loving it. Unfortunately i still have handling issues that i don't know how to fix.

Anyway, yesterday i raced at our local outdoor track. I used a brand new set of Jaco tyres. (purple front and pink rear), the first race the handling was okie and i had a few crashes but still managed to came 2nd. I swapped the rear left/right tyre before the next race.. but then from 2nd race, my car doesn't really like to do left turns. everytime i turn left, i have to really slow down my car or it'll just understeer a lot. It turns right with no problem at all and is very sensitive. so i wonder why is it and how to fix it? the tweak screws are adjusted properly. All the wheels spin freely and i don't see anythign wrong/broken.

Motor is a 8 turn double (getting a V2 9x2), steering exp is -45% and steering throw is symetrical. Toe-in is about 1-2 degree each side. Camber is about -1 degree on both side. I'm using the thicker T-bar at the moment with 0.22 springs.

I've got similar problem at my first indoor race so i really want to find out what is going wrong with my car..

my 2nd question, since i've decided to race both on carpet and outdoor.. i wonder if there is a setting that is OKIE for both? I don't mind changing the front springs everytime as it's only a 5-10 mins job but changing the T-Bar seems to be too trouble and i have to take half the car apart... so what would you guys suggest me to do?

Thanks a lot.
And to answer your second question about setups between carpet and asphalt, the setup you have posted here would be a carpet setup which would also work on an extremely high bite asphalt track as well. Generally, the higher the bite, the stiffer you want to set the car up.

Hey, OD! How’s that barbequed Turkey taste?
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Old 06-19-2005, 08:30 PM   #13375
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow15
i've got my L4 for a few weeks now and still learning how to drive it. I've raced it both indoor and outdoor once so far and really loving it. Unfortunately i still have handling issues that i don't know how to fix.

Anyway, yesterday i raced at our local outdoor track. I used a brand new set of Jaco tyres. (purple front and pink rear), the first race the handling was okie and i had a few crashes but still managed to came 2nd. I swapped the rear left/right tyre before the next race.. but then from 2nd race, my car doesn't really like to do left turns. everytime i turn left, i have to really slow down my car or it'll just understeer a lot. It turns right with no problem at all and is very sensitive. so i wonder why is it and how to fix it? the tweak screws are adjusted properly. All the wheels spin freely and i don't see anythign wrong/broken.

Motor is a 8 turn double (getting a V2 9x2), steering exp is -45% and steering throw is symetrical. Toe-in is about 1-2 degree each side. Camber is about -1 degree on both side. I'm using the thicker T-bar at the moment with 0.22 springs.

I've got similar problem at my first indoor race so i really want to find out what is going wrong with my car..

my 2nd question, since i've decided to race both on carpet and outdoor.. i wonder if there is a setting that is OKIE for both? I don't mind changing the front springs everytime as it's only a 5-10 mins job but changing the T-Bar seems to be too trouble and i have to take half the car apart... so what would you guys suggest me to do?

Thanks a lot.
And to answer your second question about setups between carpet and asphalt, the setup you have posted here would be a carpet setup which would also work on an extremely high bite asphalt track as well. Generally, the higher the bite, the stiffer you want to set the car up.

Hey, OD! How’s that barbequed Eagle taste?
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Old 06-19-2005, 09:10 PM   #13376
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Default Race Results-Modesto 6/18

mmmm good!

Tastes like Eagle!

Last edited by odpurple; 07-10-2008 at 08:50 PM.
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Old 06-19-2005, 09:12 PM   #13377
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
mmmm good!

Tastes like Eagle!

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Old 06-19-2005, 09:35 PM   #13378
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Was there an od win?
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Constantly evolving CRC WGT and WGT-R/T...Carpet & Asphalt...All thanks to Team CRC.
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Old 06-19-2005, 09:37 PM   #13379
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I'm liking this bird diet every weekend. If we are eating all the eagles, what are the eagles eating? Maybe......crow.
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Old 06-19-2005, 09:38 PM   #13380
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
Was there an od win?
fat chance! It was a "team win" so to speak.

1 Jim Rose
2 Steve Ashby
3 O'D

Jim-yer so mean!
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