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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 08-19-2002, 03:35 PM   #1321
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DavidL.....I dont think that the date of Octoberfast should be changed, there are other people that have already made plans to attend the race. And the "Midwestern" guys that are attending the worlds should be a non issue. The worlds is in Ohio and most Midwestern guys will drive to the race that are in the race. Also how many of the guys live like 3 hours or less from the Worlds track that are going to the worlds I would venture to say a lot of them do. So the time frame and travel should not be a problem. How many guys are we talking about that are attending the worlds and the Octoberfast race maybe 20 to 30 tops? Why punnish the 100 or so more for a select few I feel the date is already set and it should not be changed IMHO.
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Old 08-19-2002, 09:56 PM   #1322
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Default Traction roll....

Well, anyone got any ideas on this one?

My totally dialed 1/12 scale has started to traction roll. I have changed about everything (too long to list) there is to change. Car is very dialed with new tires, but traction rolls as tires begin to wear. This car spanked a well known pro with his touring car last week......this week it's so twitchy its hard to drive....

Here's my question to the group:
Is it possible for a front tire to begin to get "hookie", to the point of catching and inducing a traction roll? My idea is that as the tires wear, it wears to a smaller diameter and the nice radiused outside corner turns to a sharp edge and begins to catch, thereby causing the car to greatly oversteer and traction roll. Car seems to be rolling or initating from the front, to the point it lifts the rear inside wheel and either spins out or on the higher speed sections .....well a very spectacular traction roll.

Has anyone ever had this happen or have any experience with this ? Is this a known or commen problem with 1/12 scale?

Opps, almost forgot....I'm running a 12L3 on high traction asphalt track, purple front/grey rear with 0 degree blocks, 2 degree camber and 30 wt shock oil. Car normally dialed.....

Last edited by Graphitedust; 08-19-2002 at 10:04 PM.
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Old 08-20-2002, 05:42 AM   #1323
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Traction rolling is the most common with 1/12 than any other R/C car.

The first thing I would check is to see it the front springs have collapsed. The next thing I would try is to clean the tires with motorspray or lighter fluid. Cleaning the tires might fix it but it is only a band aid to the problem. Does your car start traction rolling the second run on the new tires or does it traction roll after many runs? Also if you have run the tires a lot they might be getting too soft causing too much traction. If the tires do not seem too soft reradius the edges if they get too square that will help also. Also as the tires begin to wear the ride height will change and your front end may be way lower than your rear. You want it to be even or the front to be a touch lower, maybe .025 or so at the most.

You could also try a stiffer car setup. I do not know what you are running now but, a .076 t-bar and .020 springs is a common setup. Also you might want to try doping the front tires less. I do not know how much you dope now but go half as much and see what happens.

Hope this helps. I am sure some of the other guys will come up with something elso to help you too.

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Old 08-20-2002, 07:59 AM   #1324
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Traction Roll: Make sure your front ride height isn't lower than your rear. This is called the "rake" of your chassis. If you are running a negitive rake in your chassis, you are actually taking caster out of your front end. This will make the car very twitchy and hard to drive. Paul's post about cleaning your tires is also right on the money.

Diff Rings: As far as I know, SpeedMerchant cars have always come with the Asc. style stealth diff ring axle/hub combo. If you have something different on your car, it was probably changed by the previous owner. I race up in the North-East. I get my parts at R/C Madness or through mail order at Hobby Etc. Here is the correct rings off of their website. http://www.hobbyetc.com/cgi-bin/item...1115&car_id=68 Good luck.
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Old 08-20-2002, 08:03 AM   #1325
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Have tried the following:

T-bar- went from .063 to a .075
Front springs-went from .020 to .024
Shock oil went from 30wt to 35,40 and 25wt
diff-rebuilt three times, from loose to very tight
sauce- all of rear, front-went from 2/3 of inside to 1/4 of inside
toe-0/camber- 2, rechecked several times

Chickey03....regarding the tires, they have several (read LOTS) runs, but are still in good shape. The purple/grey combo works well here and is long wearing...

I know the answer is looking me in the face, just got to figure it out. Thanks for the input chicky03, I'll take it all into consideration.....anyone else got a similuar experence?

Rev.3 racer.....rake!, oh, thats good stuff......I running to the garage right now to take a look....!!!!!! Thanks! What do you guys usually like to run for ride height? Our track seems to like alot and has a sharp transition from the banked oval portion to the infield area, without some ride height, the body and nose of the chassis take a beating....

Last edited by Graphitedust; 08-20-2002 at 08:14 AM.
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Old 08-20-2002, 08:13 AM   #1326
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i would definately put a radius back on your tires. if that fails try a less castor.
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Old 08-20-2002, 08:17 AM   #1327
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Default Ausracer...

Is it common to have to put a radius back on the tires? I can't wait to try this and see what happens.....Thanks, Mate!

Mark A, Boomer........still waiting for your input!

Last edited by Graphitedust; 08-20-2002 at 08:19 AM.
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Old 08-20-2002, 08:29 AM   #1328
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I have ran the same set of tires for the last 5 weeks on my car with no problems. there is NO radius on the fronts or rears anymore and my car handles the same as it always has, or I just can't tell the difference. BTW I run on a prepared asphalt parking lot track. my ride height is about 4-5 mm.
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Old 08-20-2002, 09:37 AM   #1329
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Default Re: Ausracer...

Originally posted by Graphitedust

Mark A, Boomer........still waiting for your input!
Ummm....I already gave you my input at SoCal and it obviously didn't help

Last edited by MarkA; 08-20-2002 at 09:39 AM.
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Old 08-20-2002, 10:17 AM   #1330
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SO I decided on the Six Pack. Now the hunt is on....seems like no one has them in stock....

What servo and speedo do I get?
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Old 08-20-2002, 10:24 AM   #1331
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If you can find or use some ones durometer you might find that the tires have just become too soft even though they look fine with no cuts or chunks removed. Normally 3-5 mm is a good ride height. Since it seems that your track is a bit different that the normal flat track you might want to try more. If the traction rolling does not happen the the transition of the banks the ride height is probably not the problem as long as it is close front to back. I usually start the day with 5 mm and get to 3mm by the end of the day. I only use tires for one race day maybe two at the most and at a big race two or three qualifyers is about all you will get with out getting too slow because of them getting soft. We rotate them also to keep them lasting longer.

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Old 08-20-2002, 10:27 AM   #1332
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did you try direct from CRC? www.teamcrc.com
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Old 08-20-2002, 12:58 PM   #1333
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Hey graphitedust-
If you are racing on carpet with one set of tires, and using a product like paragon,you can get that problem. So if you are saucing for asphalt, you may be having a similar experince. Multiple runs on one set of tires can make them too soft if you are saucing them. Try to use at least 2 sets of tires. Also, you could be leaving the sauce on for too long a time as traction comes up. hope this helps.
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Last edited by robk; 08-20-2002 at 01:00 PM.
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Old 08-20-2002, 08:24 PM   #1334
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Chicky03/robk ....great info!
I had no idea that you could go through a set of tires so fast on these cars......that might be part of the problem. I suspect that I'm going to find it's several things wrong, all in the correct ratio to give me this problem.

I did notice that when my car is sitting on the bench, that the shock is compressed about two thirds of the way in it's travel. Perhaps when I go into a banked/high speed turn the chassis/t-bar is flexing so hard that the shock could be bottoming out....which I suspect would put things in a bind (a bad thing I suspect). I shortened one of the ball cups and it looks as though the shock is in a better orientation. I'll keep you posted guys thanks for the help!!!!!!!

Mark A, your thoughts? See you Thursday?
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Old 08-20-2002, 11:12 PM   #1335
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No, I won't be at SoCal this Thursday. See ya Saturday though.
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