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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 06-12-2005, 08:36 PM   #13291
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Thanks guys..

oh another question. is it okie to mix tyres of different brands?
like using Jaco front purple and Parma/PSE rear grey for carpet?
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Old 06-12-2005, 08:44 PM   #13292
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sure, just don't mix fronts or rears such as using a jaco front left and a parma front right. Unless you're running oval in which case you might be able to get away with it in some cases.
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Old 06-12-2005, 11:17 PM   #13293
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Default team laje speedevil 2

Swedish 1/12. check out that front end, the car isn't cheap either. i like the offset slot for the servo also. they have the servo angled but lowered into the chassis
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1/12 forum-large_100_speedevil2-2.jpg   1/12 forum-large_200_speedevil2-1.jpg   1/12 forum-large_100_speedevil2-4.jpg  
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Old 06-13-2005, 07:05 AM   #13294
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I have a question laydown or stand up(on mounts) servo for the irs rug rat
Any opions and explaniations will be greatly appricated
thanks
O and i am running on carpet
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Old 06-13-2005, 08:34 AM   #13295
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars
Swedish 1/12. check out that front end, the car isn't cheap either. i like the offset slot for the servo also. they have the servo angled but lowered into the chassis
It looks too heavy. The parts are very thick, aluminum blocks are used in the complicated front end... Also the car has no center brace, even the flexy L4 has a center brace. It may work for asphult, but I doubt it would be stiff enough for carpet.
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Old 06-13-2005, 08:43 AM   #13296
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Front end looks like a Trinity if you ask me!
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Old 06-13-2005, 09:38 AM   #13297
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fatdoggy
It looks too heavy. The parts are very thick, aluminum blocks are used in the complicated front end... Also the car has no center brace, even the flexy L4 has a center brace. It may work for asphult, but I doubt it would be stiff enough for carpet.
In reality it only weights 1gram more than an LS front.
It is stiff enough. And it does have a brace that is bolted to the front arms. It makes the whole front end very rigid, like a box. An LS is not as stiff.
Unless you are refering to the brace above the t-bar. With the type of carbon we use, you don't need that brace.
I built the first prototype front several years ago, so it has been run before. On a lot of cars. What is really interresting is that you notice all changes you do, instantly. I have no problem dialing in some more steering when needed.

/Magnus
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Old 06-13-2005, 11:04 AM   #13298
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mag
In reality it only weights 1gram more than an LS front.
It is stiff enough. And it does have a brace that is bolted to the front arms. It makes the whole front end very rigid, like a box. An LS is not as stiff.
Unless you are refering to the brace above the t-bar. With the type of carbon we use, you don't need that brace.
I built the first prototype front several years ago, so it has been run before. On a lot of cars. What is really interresting is that you notice all changes you do, instantly. I have no problem dialing in some more steering when needed.

/Magnus
I think this car looks like a good, modern design. Well executed and following the latest trend toward stiff chassis with no cut-outs. The front end is certainly no more complex than the Reflex 12, I'm curious if it is as difficult to dial in.
Magnus-
Are you the designer of the car? I would be interested in obtaining one for my collection.
O'D
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Old 06-13-2005, 11:32 AM   #13299
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
I think this car looks like a good, modern design. Well executed and following the latest trend toward stiff chassis with no cut-outs. The front end is certainly no more complex than the Reflex 12, I'm curious if it is as difficult to dial in.
Magnus-
Are you the designer of the car? I would be interested in obtaining one for my collection.
O'D
O'D,
With a nice collection of cars, assembling, tuning and racing them, I'm curious on what is your ideal chassis, suspension geomety, battery layout, etc. In other words, what is your ideal 12th scale if you had a chance to design your own?
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Old 06-13-2005, 11:36 AM   #13300
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I'm one of the designers. I throw a lot of ideas around and see what sticks... The other guys make it happen. That car on the pics is actually last years model. We have been testing all winter and are going to test some new stuff in a while. The front is easier to set up than a trinity because you can set camber without affecting caster. And you can set ride height without it falling apart...
One can adjust both camber gain and roll center. Roll center is important for how much pressure one puts on the front wheel during cornering. Camber gain is how much the camber changes when the chassie rolls. This is important if you want to keep the same amount of steering grip through the turn.
You can reach me or Jonas on magnus(at)laje.se or jonas(at)laje.se

/Magnus
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Old 06-13-2005, 12:49 PM   #13301
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OD,

I was checking your laps from the weekend, great job dude, you say you were running aqua's? Very consistant the whole run, I'm going to have to try some of those out next time around.

Chris.
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Old 06-13-2005, 01:23 PM   #13302
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revzalot
O'D,
With a nice collection of cars, assembling, tuning and racing them, I'm curious on what is your ideal chassis, suspension geomety, battery layout, etc. In other words, what is your ideal 12th scale if you had a chance to design your own?
Anton-
I don't really think that there is an ideal 1/12th car. Different cars can be suited best to different tracks and conditions. For carpet I think the SpeedMerchant Rev4 is the best design out right now. I only ran mine in stock (due to not racing much carpet this year), but it sure beats everything else I've ever run. A t-bar car can be easier to drive in mod than a link car (due to the battery spacing), but i'm anxious to try my Rev4 with some horsepower!
On asphalt cars with wide battery spacing are very forgiving. Cars like the Yokomo and Kawada are long and flexible, with wide-spaced batteries making them ideal asphalt cars. I just rebuilt my Yokomo (photo attached) and ran it Saturday night at Ripon; it was the best car I have ever run there! I re-spec'd it with a new esc and servo, tried a wierd tire combo and it was bolted for 8 minutes.
All that being said,I think the "ideal" 1/12th car is the one you are in love with at the moment. You have to want to spend the time with any car to get the right set-up for it and your driving style.
Funny you should ask about my own design for a 1/12th car...

Chris-
Aquas, Baby! and double pink fronts. the car was the excellent. I finished about 10 seconds behind you and Jim, which is a very good result for me. Now that I have finished on the same lap as you guys watch out!

Last edited by odpurple; 07-10-2008 at 08:49 PM.
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Old 06-13-2005, 02:35 PM   #13303
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baumgartner
Does anyone know if the CRC "football" and the Speedmerchant "Football" are compatable? Thanks in advance!
I don't think they're compatible, if you need Speedmerchant parts you can get them from Hobby Etc. or Speedmerchant's website.
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Old 06-13-2005, 03:23 PM   #13304
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OD,

I'm going to have to try those tires tires and see if I can get my lap back

Do you know what you are going to try out at Modesto next week? I'll be running my T-fource and I'm not as happy with that car as I am with the MS2.2 so we shall see how it goes. I won't be racing oval next week so I'll have more time to work out my issues... Racing issues anyway.

Chris
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Old 06-13-2005, 05:06 PM   #13305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crimson eagle
OD,

I'm going to have to try those tires tires and see if I can get my lap back

Do you know what you are going to try out at Modesto next week? I'll be running my T-fource and I'm not as happy with that car as I am with the MS2.2 so we shall see how it goes. I won't be racing oval next week so I'll have more time to work out my issues... Racing issues anyway.

Chris
If you want that lap back you will have to work for it (smack! )

I'm going to try blacks and purples/d-pinks since the greens/aquas wear so much. Of course pinks have always worked well for me at Modesto.

Good luck with your issues. I don't think I can help, unless you'd like me to sand and CA your rough edges...
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