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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 06-11-2005, 02:23 PM   #13276
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yo, I have a question that maybe someone can explain for me. I have been running my dampener disks dry for a few months, and then one of my friends told me to add a little trinity red stuff. Now when i got to the track, I was told that I should take the grease off. What is the exact effect that grease gives?
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Old 06-11-2005, 03:09 PM   #13277
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It's all about friction!
You can put almost any kind of lubricant in between (with exception of shoe goo, CA cement, etc... ), so you can adjust your side movements (traction in corners).
Use a thick lubricant and the rearpod will move slow and has a lot of friction (the car will lean longer in the turns).
Use a softer/thinner lubricant and the rearpod will move more freely and with less friction (the rearpod will easier go to center when you're in a turn).
You can somewhat compare it with the oil in a shockabsorber, the same thing happens there.
In the end it's just another tuning point, just like so many (like; T-bar, shock, camber, caster, tires, etc...)!
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Old 06-11-2005, 03:36 PM   #13278
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I just want to carify the shock macro vcs shock assembly regarding the plastic container that contains the foam. Is the opening facing downward or towards the shock body or upwards?
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Old 06-11-2005, 03:39 PM   #13279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thai3g_Eclipse
Hey guys, finished building the car last night.


The assembly went fairly smooth, but there were few kinks in my kit that left a somewhat sour aftertaste...one of the things that really bugged me is one of the aluminum blue posts that holds up the rear body posts would not thread at all. One side took the screw in fine, but the other side would not thread at all. If you look at the picture, you can see the missing post, which I'm about to go to my LHS and get a new one. Other than that, I kept re-doing the rear axle assembly for an hour til I got it to roll very freely.
Did you sand and CA glued the edges for rigidity? Don't forget to true the tires.
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Old 06-11-2005, 03:41 PM   #13280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revzalot
I just want to carify the shock macro vcs shock assembly regarding the plastic container that contains the foam. Is the opening facing downward or towards the shock body or upwards?
upwards...
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Old 06-11-2005, 09:02 PM   #13281
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Default speed controls

hey guys wanted to pick your brains about speed controls , in the market for a new one for 1/12 mod. what are you guys using and what seems to work the best. I've been looking at ko propos new one, lrp Q2, GTX, thanks for any advice you can give me on high end speed controls.

kurt
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Old 06-11-2005, 10:19 PM   #13282
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kruston
hey guys wanted to pick your brains about speed controls , in the market for a new one for 1/12 mod. what are you guys using and what seems to work the best. I've been looking at ko propos new one, lrp Q2, GTX, thanks for any advice you can give me on high end speed controls.

kurt
im using the gtx on my car and it works great. my only complaint is the big capacitor taking up space. a lrp QC2 should fix that problem.
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Old 06-12-2005, 05:58 AM   #13283
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my L4's graphite lower pod plate (ASC4559) is broken.. and my local shop doesn't stock it.. just wonder where can i order one on the net and will ship internationally? I can only find KT Hobbies stock it but they want $35US for international shipping which is quite a lot consider the plate is only around $9US.
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Old 06-12-2005, 06:09 AM   #13284
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Why don't you just order the part at your local shop?
They'll have the part within a week if it's in stock at the distributor.
You could also try Speedtech.
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Old 06-12-2005, 09:02 AM   #13285
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow15
my L4's graphite lower pod plate (ASC4559) is broken.. and my local shop doesn't stock it.. just wonder where can i order one on the net and will ship internationally? I can only find KT Hobbies stock it but they want $35US for international shipping which is quite a lot consider the plate is only around $9US.
You can order directly from Associated and they have the best price. The website is a little difficult to navigate for ordering but if you keep exploring you will find the order page. The order page does require you to have the part number of the item you want to order, so you need to find that in the parts manual portion of the website if you do not already have the number. My only question would be if they ship internationally but I can't imagine they would not.
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Old 06-12-2005, 09:07 AM   #13286
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kruston
hey guys wanted to pick your brains about speed controls , in the market for a new one for 1/12 mod. what are you guys using and what seems to work the best. I've been looking at ko propos new one, lrp Q2, GTX, thanks for any advice you can give me on high end speed controls.

kurt
I use the KO vfs-1 and it's fantastic. Took awhile to get programmed right but it's clearly an advantage. It's worth it and it's tiny
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Old 06-12-2005, 12:40 PM   #13287
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I HAVE A CRC SIX PACK AND I NEED NEW DIFF BALLS BUT THE PROBLEM IS THE ONES THAT I GOT IN THE CAR WERE THE WRONG SIZE SO IF ANY ONE KNOWS THE SIZE OF THE DIFF BALLS THAT I SHOULD HAVE IN THEIR THAT WOULD BE GREAT
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Old 06-12-2005, 12:44 PM   #13288
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1/8th inch
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Old 06-12-2005, 05:48 PM   #13289
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thank you
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Old 06-12-2005, 08:10 PM   #13290
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tekin
Why don't you just order the part at your local shop?
They'll have the part within a week if it's in stock at the distributor.
You could also try Speedtech.

http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=153&id=4269
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