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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 06-05-2005, 10:22 PM   #13216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrrc
anyone running 12th at the speedworld cup?
I was. But, with no other entries have been switched by Billy B over to Expert Stock TC.

I posed this a couple weeks ago and got no response from the peanut gallery.

Willing to jump back in with enough entries.

Bill
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Old 06-05-2005, 10:26 PM   #13217
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the motor type was in the "title section" of my post
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Old 06-05-2005, 11:51 PM   #13218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars
the motor type was in the "title section" of my post
Ahhhhh...Sorry. I am so atuned to reading the text.

No help here. All Monster and Chameleon based.

Bill
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Old 06-06-2005, 12:23 AM   #13219
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How are you doin in 1/12th Bill? I didnt see you at the RROC, were you there?
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Old 06-06-2005, 12:30 AM   #13220
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crimson eagle
Aqua's were good ..... for about 90 seconds then they sucked for 6 minutes, just went totally away. I finished back on pinks and purples. i didn't actually try greens.

Chris

PS Charlie.......
Dusty-
It's kind of like Barbeque...you have to know how to sauce. Greens and Aquas are hooked for 8 on that track with the right condiment!
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Old 06-06-2005, 06:42 AM   #13221
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OD,

and what would that condiment be? I think Charlie used Paragon in the final on his greens. It worked better but did not hold for the last 2 minutes.

Chris
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Old 06-06-2005, 07:56 AM   #13222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Caster
How are you doin in 1/12th Bill? I didnt see you at the RROC, were you there?
1/12th Stock on asphalt is going well. We have a regular group that does that class at Ripon.

After meeting up with Team Losi for Monday and Tuesday at 4 Fun and going to SoCal on Wednesday, I only showed for the Thursday Practice at RROC to see the Big Boys.

Got the JRX-S working really well; so went back home to race at Ripon that
Saturday. Team Losi elevated me by about a half dozen qualifying positions in Expert Stock which made the trip totally worthwhile.

Sorry I missed you, Shane and Gearhead. Reedy was excellent. Definitely coming back next year.

Bill
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Old 06-06-2005, 10:52 AM   #13223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhuang
As for the IRS-ts pucks only I beleive and will retail for only $47.95 I think he told me. I mean only because its a set of lowered pods and the top deck.
I appologize, Ray. I should never have doubted you. Talked with Dave again today and he brought me up to speed. He said he forgot to mention the 1/12 stuff the last time we talked.

You are correct with the stuff on the side plates. Polishing going on for some and the blue ones are ready for delivery. The top decks come in two forms. One is for the tube style dampers and the other is for the puck style damper. Both are black graphite and in stock ready for delivery. He said the website will be updated soon to pick up these parts.
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Old 06-06-2005, 11:16 AM   #13224
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Default Saucey!

Quote:
Originally Posted by crimson eagle
OD,

and what would that condiment be? I think Charlie used Paragon in the final on his greens. It worked better but did not hold for the last 2 minutes.

Chris
I used Paragon as well, but I double sauced and worked it in to the rubber. My theory is that the greens or aquas wear so much that the tire wears down past the rubber that has been treated by the sauce. The way I sauced lasted for 8; I used the same compound and teqnique at GP yesterday and it worked as well. That's with up to 2mm of rear tire wear per heat!
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Old 06-06-2005, 11:53 AM   #13225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRX-S Bill
1/12th Stock on asphalt is going well. We have a regular group that does that class at Ripon.

After meeting up with Team Losi for Monday and Tuesday at 4 Fun and going to SoCal on Wednesday, I only showed for the Thursday Practice at RROC to see the Big Boys.

Got the JRX-S working really well; so went back home to race at Ripon that
Saturday. Team Losi elevated me by about a half dozen qualifying positions in Expert Stock which made the trip totally worthwhile.

Sorry I missed you, Shane and Gearhead. Reedy was excellent. Definitely coming back next year.

Bill
I wish I could make the SW cup but it doesnt look very promising, missed it last year too unfortunately. Still have NORRCA nats and the KO race this month though.
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Old 06-06-2005, 12:41 PM   #13226
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OD,

That sounds interesting, I used to do that on my F1 car to get it to last 6 minutes (the last minute was hairy though). I went to Pinks and purples in the final and didn;t have the corner speed as I did with the aqua's but they were mostly consistent for the whole run. When the aqua's worked the grip was ferocious, I had to go to dble pinks on front to stick. I didn't think the wear was too bad, I didn't get to trying greens though.

Chris
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Old 06-06-2005, 01:04 PM   #13227
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I was curious if there is any sanding required to make 3700 cells fit in the T-Fource battery slots? I am going to be making the switch soon...
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Old 06-06-2005, 01:42 PM   #13228
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast-ho-cars
looking for recommendations on spring/brush combos to run one in 12th scales.

I have been using soft springs with sprint brushes. Seems to be the prefered choice over here for the V2's
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Old 06-06-2005, 05:48 PM   #13229
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Default steering too sensitive

hi all,
built my RC12L4 about 2 weeks ago and had a few runs so far. This is my first 1:12 pan car and i'm running a 8T motor (will soon be getting a 10 double) outdoor. Using Jaco purple front and Pink rear.
I noticed the car is VERY sensitive to the steering compare to my touring car, just a little bit steering and the car will response instantly.. I've already tuned the steering exp on my radio down quite a bit (-40% i think) but it's still a bit too sensitive to me.. i just wonder what can i do to make it a bit more "stable" , maybe getting a thicker/thinner T-bar? or should i get a thinner one? i know nothing about setting up 1:12 car so any help would be great.

also, i remember seeing someone mention some of the bearings will worn out quickly but i can't find that post again? so which one is it?
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Old 06-06-2005, 06:32 PM   #13230
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3700 fit the t-fource, just follow the instructions that came with the car. You want to take a small amount off the edges so the battery does not fall below the bottom of the chassis.

Last edited by gotyournumber; 06-06-2005 at 08:49 PM.
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