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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-17-2002, 09:58 PM   #1306
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Kyosho's 4wd 1/12 car was called the Fantom, and I also remember the Hirobo from the period. A few of the guys at one of the local tracks had them back then, but I don't recall ever seeing them run.

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Old 08-17-2002, 10:09 PM   #1307
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I saw a 4wd kyosho pan car on ebay, chain drive too
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Old 08-18-2002, 08:09 AM   #1308
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The date of the OktoberFast has become an issue. It is too close to one of the world's events. Many midwestern 1/12 drivers can not attend due to other commitments. If it was the weekend as in the past (2 weeks later), the problem would be eliminated. Is there anyone else on this board than "Tiger" Arnold that is on the Triple Crown Committee that can address this with the race director and get it switched? We need to get this fixed now, not a week from the event.
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Old 08-18-2002, 09:45 AM   #1309
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I think Darnold was faking the shoulder when Paulie took him out at "Trackside Pitch and Putt". Look for all the big r/c stars to buy lob wedges this fall.... jeeez

ps. no secrets for me I am back to the land of the big associated
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Old 08-18-2002, 04:20 PM   #1310
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Here's a quick after-race report for Friday night, the first time out with the Switchblade 2002. Sorry it's so late in coming, but it was around 983 degrees at the track, and we were there from 5 in the afternoon til almost 3AM, I think I slept straight thru Saturday...

THe only mod motor I had at my disposal was a big-wire Trinity P94 9 double. The motor barely makes 5 minutes in a touring car, so I wasn't expecting to make 8, but I narrowed the brush faces and went down from purple to green brush springs. Timing around 10 degrees. For cells I'm running year-old Panasonic Stock Metals, I ran them through the Turbomatchers to rematch them into 4 cell packs, and found them to be 95-100 seconds down on runtime from when they were new.

In the first round, I easily drove away from the other cars, by three minutes I had a lap on everyone but second place. I drove easy, trying to milk all I could from the batteries. The car started to feel a bit soft at 6 and a half minutes, by 7 and a half I was 2 seconds a lap off the pace. I finished, but second place got by me to take TQ by 2 seconds.

Second round I went up 2 teeth on the pinion and tried to drive with a lighter trigger finger. Lap times were a bit slower through the run, but the car finished stronger. The run was two seconds slower than the first round.

I put a Green Machine 3 in for the third round, way overgeared. Kept up with the mods for about three minutes, then I think the arm shorted. Speed fell way off, and the car dumped hard at 7 minutes.

Put the mod back in for the main, but Losi/Trinity driver Dave Graboski asked if he could try the car. About half the field had gone home before the mains due to the late hour, so I started the main, drove for about a minute, then turned the car over to Dave for the remainder of the run. I don't think he was driving to conserve, he just started ripping on it. He dumped hard right before 7 minutes. He definitely liked the way the car was working.

I'm pretty happy with the car, it'll be better when I get the corredt front suspension brace in there. Also, I ran with the thin Tbar from the kit, but I'm putting in an .075 for next time. The car had a bit of a lazy feel to it that I think the thicker Tbar will eliminate.

I ran the Parma Speed8 (lightweight version) but I think I'll try a Protoform Nissan next week. The Pama is very swoopy, but I just can't come to grips with the looks.

BIG thanks to darnold for the advice/tips during the build...

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Old 08-18-2002, 06:41 PM   #1311
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Default Speedmerchant Rev 3 Diffrings

Hey Guys

I got a used Speedmerchant rev 3 from a forum member (Geppetto) and it had a large and small diff ring on it. I went to replace them and the rings I thought went (same as the Associated B3) on are too big. So what kind of diff rings fit this thing? And was there a reason that there was a large and small diff ring on there?
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Old 08-18-2002, 06:44 PM   #1312
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pat,

That doesn't sound normal, my Rev3 had two small stealth rings. It sounds as though your car had an axle for one type of ring and a right hub for another type of ring... they don't come that way as far as I know.

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Old 08-18-2002, 07:52 PM   #1313
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Looks like I got lucky again, I found an old Epic-based 36 degree stock motor in my junk box, which had stand up brushes, so I nabbed the hoods and put them on the P94 setup. I'm certain the P94 will be way more efficient with normal width brushes on it. I'm going with Reedy Quasars, cut to half height, green springs, and 15 degrees of timing to start.

Also got the .075 Associated T-Bar in there, and I have a line on the front graphite brace from a Trinity driver in the area who says he's got a spare one for me.

I'm looking at getting some new race packs, as I mentioned in a previous post my current packs are all around 100 seconds down from what the labels said when they were new a year ago.

I'm thinking to go with Sanyo HV's, I haven't heard enough about the new GP 3300's durability to trust them over a season yet... Anyone know how the 3300's hold up, or is it still too early to be sure?

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Old 08-18-2002, 10:22 PM   #1314
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The large ring and small ring both have the same inner diameter.

Does the associated pan cars use a different size diff ring (inner diameter) than the offroad vehicles?
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Old 08-18-2002, 11:10 PM   #1315
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is there any real difference with rear tire size as long as you adjust the gearing to keep the same final drive?
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Old 08-18-2002, 11:10 PM   #1316
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Quote:
Originally posted by patcollins
The large ring and small ring both have the same inner diameter.

Does the associated pan cars use a different size diff ring (inner diameter) than the offroad vehicles?
To my knowledge, the newer Associated pan cars (12L3) use the same stealth diff rings as the offroad cars and the TC3. The older pan cars used diff rings with a much larger outer diameter, but I'm not sure if the ID was the same or not.

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Last edited by Trips; 08-19-2002 at 02:26 AM.
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Old 08-19-2002, 10:40 AM   #1317
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Quote:
Originally posted by newracer
is there any real difference with rear tire size as long as you adjust the gearing to keep the same final drive?
Aside from roll-out differences, not much.

a tire with more sidewall will have more side bite but it will feel a bit "squishy", because it has more flex.

I actually "tuned" my car with tires a while back - I had rims that were larger than another set, but the foam was cut to the same size. Early on in the day I used the larger rims (traction was better) and later, when the track got hot and kinda gooey, I put on the smaller rims.
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Old 08-19-2002, 11:13 AM   #1318
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i am the proud new owner of a crc knife(thanks to newracer) and am going to race it for the first time on the weekend. i want to know where i should mount my transponder. i was thinking of having it in between the front arms in front of the servo. the thing is i have never seen it there before and was wandering if there is a reason why. it seems that almost everyone has it behind the servo to either side.
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Old 08-19-2002, 12:16 PM   #1319
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Hey Dave,

What did that speedo work?
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Old 08-19-2002, 01:21 PM   #1320
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The speedo seemed to work well, it seems pretty easy to calibrate and there's not a lot in the way of options... the only variable to set is punch control. IF there's a downside, it's that you have a very narrow window of opportunity to do any adjustments... When you first power up the speedo, both LED's flash for around a second or so, during that second you can hit the set button to begine calibration. If you don't hit the set button, one of the LED's continues to flash for another second or so, hitting the set button during that interval gets you into the mode where you set punch control. If you mount the switch far from the speedo, it can get pretty hard to turn it on and get to the setting button in time. A pretty minor issue, but worthy of mention.

I'm pleased with its performance, I definitely like the linear feel it has. It seems to work fine on 4 cells without a receiver pack, even well after the car slowed noticeably at the end of a run I could maintain control unless I really grabbed a bunch of trigger, then I'd get the momentary loss of radio until the current draw dropped.

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