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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 05-30-2005, 11:12 PM   #13171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dakrat
for reusing, how many time can u reuse a strip? they dont lose their adhesiveness?
Just like all the high quality battery tapes out there, you can reuse it a couple of times before it starts too loose it's adhesiveness.
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Old 05-30-2005, 11:29 PM   #13172
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If you clean up your car before untaping the batteries, it will keep the tape cleaner and in better condition for potential reuse. Sometimes it is good for 3-4 rounds.
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Old 05-31-2005, 01:01 AM   #13173
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Hey guy's thanks a bunch. I will start to look for some yok tape. going to give it a try. I have a bit before we go indoors. but thanks for the info. now if I can only learn to set the car up.
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Old 05-31-2005, 09:27 PM   #13174
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyrrus
Hey guy's thanks a bunch. I will start to look for some yok tape. going to give it a try. I have a bit before we go indoors. but thanks for the info. now if I can only learn to set the car up.
Also try Speedtech.com for their colored tapes. That's what I use.

Bill
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Old 05-31-2005, 10:23 PM   #13175
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I have some the xenon tape from speedtech. It's strong but not very sticky. I couldn't re-use it
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Old 05-31-2005, 10:37 PM   #13176
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nothing beats the power and the price of a $3 scotch strapping tape!
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Old 05-31-2005, 10:44 PM   #13177
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Sorry, my roll of tape actually says "Sliontec Slion Tape", not "Xenon". Got mixed up because it looked the same. Mine is VERY reusable.

Bill
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Old 06-02-2005, 05:21 AM   #13178
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racers choice tracton.
Which would be better Mod or Max for carpt?
Paragon be prohibitted.

Last edited by landau; 06-14-2005 at 11:24 AM.
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Old 06-02-2005, 07:15 AM   #13179
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I like the Mod and 8+. Probably a little edge to the 8+ for 12th scale.
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Old 06-02-2005, 10:30 AM   #13180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by landau
racers choice tracton.
Which would be better Mod or Max for carpt?
Paragon be prohibitted.
Good looking car!
I really like that "sparkle" effect on the carbon fiber plates.
How is that made, and is it available somewhere?
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Old 06-02-2005, 06:06 PM   #13181
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mod and 8+, have a test next week, jhonB thanks.
Tekin,
this plate is not carbon fiber, for example reflex. i cut it form hologram sheet, you can get it at wear house shop. easily making, low cost, outstanding, your special, self-satisfaction?,,that's nice.
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Old 06-03-2005, 01:47 AM   #13182
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Red face Gotta love the net for research....

I had narrowed my first 1/12th choice down to either CRC or Yokomo but have since discovered the CEFX C12.

As the Yokomo and the C12 are the only two that come complete with a body and tires it's just a matter of finding an online store that has 2 C12s in stock (had always intended to get two) and accepts overseas credit card orders.

So if people in their browsing happen to find such a store could you just pm me please and I'll go have a look.

Why the C12 over the Yokomo (Tower have at least two at the moment)? Well basically not having had a 1/12th before it comes down to, I think the C12 looks better.

Last edited by Mabuchi540; 06-03-2005 at 02:31 AM.
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Old 06-03-2005, 12:29 PM   #13183
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Default New stiffer rear pod

Hey all,

Sorry-no pics yet-but I beleive that Irrgang racing has finally finished there new rear pod and uppperdeck for the 12L4 and Rugrat. It utilizes an aluminum Left side bulkhead that uses two screws on top-not one. Pretty much all the pros have been using an extra post on the left to stiffen up the rear pod. You get the new carbon top deck, left and right lowered pods.

Imagine the Yokomo rear pod you saw on Blackstocks car at the onroad Nats.

Ray
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Old 06-03-2005, 12:57 PM   #13184
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Default Front Suspension

How do you guys build/setup your front suspension? I am talking about the AE dynamic strut type. Is there a secret dimension to set the post (steel post where spring is mounted)? Is this post supposed to be fixed? Mine is tight. I read where people were polishing them. If it's fixed, why polish it?

I just got a new L4 to try. Most people around here use the L4 or some conversion of it so I thought I would give it a try. Are there any things I should do or not do when building this car? What about options I should or shouldn't try?

Thanks,
Jim
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Old 06-03-2005, 01:58 PM   #13185
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There is really no secrets to the front end. I like to use a small dab of Trinity Red stuff grease on each king pin. The L4 pins are pretty smooth right out of the box. The only place you want to make sure they really smooth is the pin sliding through the lower arm ball.
Not really a dimension to go by. Just set the shims (on top) so there is little to no droop.
The best thing you can do is make sure when you build the front is to make sure both sides have equal ride height. Most of the you need a thin shim under the lower a-arm on one side of the car to make it even.

take care
john
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