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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 05-26-2005, 04:24 PM   #13141
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Also, with a 96 spur, do you mean 4-6 teeth up from 29 or what the 29/100 converts to when I go with 96 then add 4-6?
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Old 05-26-2005, 04:31 PM   #13142
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edseb......I run a L4 its hard to get gearing with the 100t spur unless you are running monster truck style rear tires. Going over to a 96t spur like Brian said is the best thing to do so you have more room for gearing. Also grinding a little on the back edge of the T-bar will give more room as well. For the gearing I wouldnt go more then 4 teeth over with a 19t. I would start with 2 teeth higher then you run with stock and then go from there.
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Old 05-27-2005, 12:41 PM   #13143
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Darkside Motorsports is pleased to annouce the release of our new 90 degree adjustable servo mounts designed for 1/12 road course cars. These servo mounts are anodized black and feature adjustment slots to adapt to a wide variety of servos and mounting locations. They are part #245 and are available at www.darksidems.com.
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Old 05-27-2005, 01:16 PM   #13144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE DARKSIDE
Darkside Motorsports is pleased to annouce the release of our new 90 degree adjustable servo mounts designed for 1/12 road course cars. These servo mounts are anodized black and feature adjustment slots to adapt to a wide variety of servos and mounting locations. They are part #245 and are available at www.darksidems.com.
Nice!!!
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Old 05-27-2005, 11:54 PM   #13145
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is there any servo saver for 1/12 besides kimbrough?
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Old 05-28-2005, 12:09 AM   #13146
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I don't know, good question. Somebody must... What don't you like about the kimbrough?
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Old 05-28-2005, 12:13 AM   #13147
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Tamiya makes one that is IMHO the best.
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Old 05-28-2005, 01:29 AM   #13148
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Default Why should I get a 1/12 pan car VS a M03 Mini ?

What are they advatages and disadvantages of a 1/12 Pan Car , and why is it better than a Tamiya Mini Cooper M03 ? I am just lookin for the best and cheapest way to start carpet racing . I already have radio and servo and batteries( standard size stick packs , but would convert them to saddle if needed ) so micro is out of the question . Give me the info on 1/12 Pan Cars . IE: which are the best models but cheaper used ones to get ? I hear the Associated 12l3 is the best right ?
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Old 05-28-2005, 07:02 AM   #13149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Pink
What are they advatages and disadvantages of a 1/12 Pan Car , and why is it better than a Tamiya Mini Cooper M03 ? I am just lookin for the best and cheapest way to start carpet racing . I already have radio and servo and batteries( standard size stick packs , but would convert them to saddle if needed ) so micro is out of the question . Give me the info on 1/12 Pan Cars . IE: which are the best models but cheaper used ones to get ? I hear the Associated 12l3 is the best right ?
Hey imo i think if you are just starting carpet racing you should go with mini cooper class then you wont have to buy: tire truer $150 Motor lathe $100 good battreis $75 a pack good speed control $160-$200 and tires like once a month $40 exc............
Also you would have to learn how to set up a 1/12
Just my 2cents
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Old 05-28-2005, 07:15 AM   #13150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyperform Racing
I don't know, good question. Somebody must... What don't you like about the kimbrough?
the holes are tiny, when i make it bigger, i cant use all three holes
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Old 05-28-2005, 10:14 AM   #13151
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Default Brushless Roll-out

Anyone played with the Novak 5800 for 4 cells? If so about what ballpark rollout in mm was used. Any problems with dumping?

Thanks
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Old 05-28-2005, 01:28 PM   #13152
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Is all that equipent needed if I am just goin to have fun and not race it competitivley ?
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Old 05-29-2005, 02:55 PM   #13153
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@ Mr. Pink

I don't have a motor lathe.
At my local track they have one, so if I would like to cut the comm. I can do it over there.
Also you can run with full diameter tires, but the car will perform better if you cut them down with a tire truer.
A good speed controller and some good batteries can be handy, if you have those you will have longer runtime and the car will be faster.
Another thing you should look at is a new servo, 1/12 is fast and nimble, so you need to be in control at all time.
The servo has to be a special micro (1/12) servo that centers well.
Don't go for a Hitec, since those are known for there bad centering. You can better go for something like a Ko Propo, JR or a Futaba.
You should also keep in mind that 1/12 aren't the easiest cars to drive, and you don't tune them like a tourer (or a M03). It's different and you'll have to take your time and patience before you really know how to set it up.
Finally, you should ask yourself how bad you want to drive with a 1/12.
You said you ain't going to race with it, so it doesn't really matter what kind of car you're drivng.
Maybe you should go to the track and drive with your M03 and see how it goes. If you really like it you can eventually switch to 1/12.
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Old 05-29-2005, 06:28 PM   #13154
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sounds like a good idea . 1/12 seems like it has alot to it . I am racing 1/8 buggy right now( as soon as our track reopens ! ) so that is enough matinence to do as it is . The carpet car is just supposed to be a thing to run when its raining . I think I will look for the M03 since it has less upkeep and tuning issues . Besides , I can mod the mini once i get better at driving . Thanks for the info .
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Old 05-29-2005, 09:15 PM   #13155
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do u guys have problems with CRC tires not being round? 2 sets (8 tires) i just trued and all of them wiggles. i tested them before trueing and their not round. hmmm... anyone else have the same problem?
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