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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 05-20-2005, 06:47 AM   #13111
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Default servo threads

I don't know if anyone made this suggestion... But I ran a 4-40 tap threw my servo. No need for seeking out metric screws

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Old 05-20-2005, 10:33 AM   #13112
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Default servo screws

Metric servo srews are readily available. Du-Bro packages 2.5 and 3.0mm allen head screws, so any well equipped airplane shop has them. You can also order them on-line at www.fastener-express.com .

KO, Hitec, and Futaba use the 2.5 mm screw; Airtronics uses 3.0mm (at least the ones we use for 1/12th scale do).

no need to bugger up the threads!
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Old 05-20-2005, 10:48 AM   #13113
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Hello All,
I have been racign TC for quite a while and know a bit, but I just got a YRX12 (don't ask brand loyalty i know its stupid)....
But I would like a nice base line setup. And if anyone runs one @ SoCal could they post there setup also...I might make a few trips down there also.
Any thing I should know.....So I don't feel completely retarded???
Also what servo is usally the best. I am not that fond of Hitec...Sorry just some bad experiences with them. I like Ko and Airtronics but not afraid of Futaba either.
I will have the QC2 and a Helios 302F receiver to help with weight.
Any other pointers would be great.
Thanks in advance,
Stephen <><
ALso the YRX can also use all the 12L gear...The guys I purchased it from said he converted it all over.
So any other things I should stock up on...I.E. spares.
Also what charge rate do I use..|
I also can step charge, any help is appreciated.
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Old 05-20-2005, 12:19 PM   #13114
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mr. Shookie
Hello All,
what servo is usally the best. I am not that fond of Hitec...Sorry just some bad experiences with them. I like Ko and Airtronics but not afraid of Futaba either.
I will have the QC2 and a Helios 302F receiver to help with weight.
Any other pointers would be great.
Thanks in advance,
Stephen <><
ALso the YRX can also use all the 12L gear...The guys I purchased it from said he converted it all over.
So any other things I should stock up on...I.E. spares.
Also what charge rate do I use..|
I also can step charge, any help is appreciated.
Welcome to 12th scale!!!! You'll love it. I run the Airtronics 94145 servo. Nothing fancy, just good solid performance and durable. I think the KO people have talked about the 949 but I haven't tried it. I do have a Futaba 9650 that I like a lot

I don't run pavement so I can't help you on setup up, but the parts from your Yok are the same as a Assoc L car except the chassis. The front end and axle are the same.

for general 12th scale setup and tuning check this out:
http://home.sc.rr.com/mlufaso/rc/12l4/index.html
Pretty much everything you need. Batteries are a big part of 12th scale. Big run time if your going to run mod.

take care
john
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Old 05-20-2005, 07:33 PM   #13115
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Thank You John,
That site shall be a good read I am sure when I have more time...
I plan on getting some of the new Promatch IB3800 in a couple of weeks when they come in and I have saved up a bit.
Thanks Again,
Take Care & GOD Bless
Stephen <><
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Old 05-20-2005, 09:30 PM   #13116
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Anybody know where to get the Speedmerchant Rev 4?
I can't seem to find it anywhere.
Do you order it directly through speedmerchant?
Also, I had a Carpet knife before selling it. Did not run it much. Is it better than the Rev 4 or should I just get another CRC?
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Old 05-20-2005, 11:09 PM   #13117
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Quote:
Originally posted by scoobydo
Anybody know where to get the Speedmerchant Rev 4?
I can't seem to find it anywhere.
Do you order it directly through speedmerchant?
Also, I had a Carpet knife before selling it. Did not run it much. Is it better than the Rev 4 or should I just get another CRC?
Buy directly from SpeedMerchant, or from Hobby Etc.
In my opinion, the Rev4 is a better car than the Carpet Knife.
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Old 05-20-2005, 11:21 PM   #13118
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Quote:
Originally posted by odpurple
Buy directly from SpeedMerchant, or from Hobby Etc.
In my opinion, the Rev4 is a better car than the Carpet Knife.
od,

Have fun at Modesto or wherever. I am headed to 4 Fun and SoCal down south and then to the Reedy.

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Old 05-22-2005, 09:45 PM   #13119
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Go with the Carpet Knife. The CRC team is running very strong at National events and it is the most complete car kit available, right out of the box. Very user friendly, parts are easy to get too.
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Old 05-23-2005, 05:36 AM   #13120
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I've been racing TC's for a while now, and want to try 1/12th. I bought a bloody carpet knife 3.2. I have a few questions before i take it to the track...

What is a good starting rollout for 19turn on this track with 100x75 http://www.sdgmotorsports.com/

Where can I find a setup for bumpy asphalt?

Do you guys have any diff action? My is pretty tight, and when I loosen it, the diff pads get tweaked.

What traction compound is popular for outdoor?

Thanks for your help. And if you guys have any TC q's send me a PM
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Old 05-23-2005, 07:35 AM   #13121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro4Capece
I've been racing TC's for a while now, and want to try 1/12th. I bought a bloody carpet knife 3.2. I have a few questions before i take it to the track...

What is a good starting rollout for 19turn on this track with 100x75 http://www.sdgmotorsports.com/

Where can I find a setup for bumpy asphalt?

Do you guys have any diff action? My is pretty tight, and when I loosen it, the diff pads get tweaked.

What traction compound is popular for outdoor?

Thanks for your help. And if you guys have any TC q's send me a PM

I'm fairly new to 1/12 but I have learned a few things so far. I have a CRC Carpet Knife 3.1 and I run the diff pretty loose. It helps keep the car more controlable. I use Red Dot compound... because it is popular. I have no idea if it is better but Red Dot and Paragon Black are the most popular where I race.
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Old 05-23-2005, 08:43 AM   #13122
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Pro4 - Your diff should be smooth and free but still tight. Use only a little lube when you build it. Also make sure you loosen your diff after every race day so that you don't kill the bearings. As far as compound, ground effects works well everywhere. Rollout I'd say start around 40mm and adjust from there. It's a very open track so you may have to go higher.
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Old 05-23-2005, 10:44 AM   #13123
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Get plenty of the 1/4x3/8 flanged bearings - get the standard steel ones - they're pretty much "sacrificial" for the outside thrust bearing (where the cone goes) - if your diff goes crunchy, just replace that bearing.
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Old 05-23-2005, 10:57 AM   #13124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
Buy directly from SpeedMerchant, or from Hobby Etc.
In my opinion, the Rev4 is a better car than the Carpet Knife.
My sentiments exactly.
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Old 05-23-2005, 03:13 PM   #13125
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Default Parma Front Tire ?

Does anyone know what shore Parma violet front tires are? It dosen't say on their web-site.

Thanks
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