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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 05-19-2005, 09:05 AM   #13096
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Zoot,

I don't think it's a rule, but the first time your car rolls in a race you're going to wish you had it on. 1/12 scales have a tendency to keep the shiny side down when they flip.
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Old 05-19-2005, 09:24 AM   #13097
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Quote:
Originally posted by Zootcapri
Anybody know if the fiberglass antenna on the pan cars is manditory or just a nice self marshall device. I can't find a rule about it in the rulebook. Photos in the magazines show the white antenna with some showing whip antenna. I just installed the Spektrum rx and would like to take advantage of the short antenna if there isn't a significant reason to keep the stock antenna.

Thanks
Yes the fiberglass anttena is for roll over reasons. We have been using roll over anttenas since day one of 12 scale! If you dont have it you'll wish you did!
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Old 05-19-2005, 09:29 AM   #13098
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Quote:
Originally posted by DPowell
Maybe we talked about it while you were at the salad bar.


D.P.
Dam it! me and my health food eating fads!!

Hey jag I do post on here from time to time. Plus its time you felt the quad 12 quadra lapping you.
Jag I run 12 scale at all the bigger state races, but I will be running it more after the reedy to get ready for the nationals in october at speedline!
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Old 05-19-2005, 03:28 PM   #13099
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I just got myself a RC12L4, a KO 949 servo and a KO VFS-1 ESC.
Built everything last night, but i have one problem. The servo saver screw that came with the kit (the gold one) doesn't fit my KO 949's metal gear (the screws are too big). And if i use the screw that came with my servo, it is just too short and can't even touch the servo. So how do you guys fix this? do i have to go and find a matching screw from some hardware shop? or don't use any screw at all? or ???

Thanks
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Old 05-19-2005, 04:01 PM   #13100
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I'm not sure about KO, but my Airtronics uses a 3mm screw. Also the same as a motor screw.

take care
john
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Old 05-19-2005, 04:16 PM   #13101
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Can anyone suggest a suitable wind motor and starting rollout for an aprox 100ft X 50ft carpet track, using gp3300s?

Quote:
I just got myself a RC12L4, a KO 949 servo and a KO VFS-1 ESC.
Built everything last night, but i have one problem. The servo saver screw that came with the kit (the gold one) doesn't fit my KO 949's metal gear (the screws are too big). And if i use the screw that came with my servo, it is just too short and can't even touch the servo. So how do you guys fix this? do i have to go and find a matching screw from some hardware shop? or don't use any screw at all? or ???

Thanks
the KO uses a 2.6mm screw
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Old 05-19-2005, 04:23 PM   #13102
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For mod I like 9 or 10 doubles with rollout around 9.37-9.4 depending on amp draw and at least 430 run time on your batteries. That rollout is for motors drawing about 5-6 amps. Play with your spring tension to bring the amp draw down. You don't need much tension for 4 cell on carpet.
My best motor now is a 9x2 Ti and it only draws 4.8 amps. Not sure why it's so low, everything else is the same as my other motors. It's just one of those REALLY good armatures from Team Br00d.

take care
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Old 05-19-2005, 04:27 PM   #13103
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Quote:
Originally posted by tomlau
the KO uses a 2.6mm screw
so i guess it's not really a common size screw? i.e. i can't find it from my local hardware shop?
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Old 05-19-2005, 04:31 PM   #13104
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Quote:
Originally posted by JohnB
For mod I like 9 or 10 doubles with rollout around 9.37-9.4 depending on amp draw and at least 430 run time on your batteries. That rollout is for motors drawing about 5-6 amps. Play with your spring tension to bring the amp draw down. You don't need much tension for 4 cell on carpet.
My best motor now is a 9x2 Ti and it only draws 4.8 amps. Not sure why it's so low, everything else is the same as my other motors. It's just one of those REALLY good armatures from Team Br00d.

take care
john
So you only play with the spring tension, you don't fiddle with timing at all?
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Old 05-19-2005, 05:26 PM   #13105
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Not to much any more. Not sure why. I run mostly Ti and Pt's and they seem to run good at 12*. At least have a good balance of power. Awhile back one of the fast guys told me about spring tension for 12th scale. I just set that now.
I tried running V2's for awhile and never could get good run time out or them and still have power, at least for 12th scale. They are great in touring car though.

take care
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Old 05-19-2005, 05:36 PM   #13106
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Thanks So you leave at 24 (Standard) now and play with spring tension until it draws about 5A? Or set to 12 then play with springs?

I have the same trouble with my V2, will try a Ti soon.

Sorry about all the q's just want to get it right
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Old 05-19-2005, 08:35 PM   #13107
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No problem with questions. I ask a lot also. That's how we learn.
I think on the Ti's 12* is the standard timing. Been so long since I've had a new one

take care
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Old 05-20-2005, 02:00 AM   #13108
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JohnB,

thanks. what is 9.37-9.4??? that cant be mm, cm or inchs! or is that your gear ratio?
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Old 05-20-2005, 02:14 AM   #13109
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Quote:
Originally posted by yellow15
so i guess it's not really a common size screw? i.e. i can't find it from my local hardware shop?
I had the same problem.
But I had an old Hitec servo with a longer screw and that fitted.
So maybe you can order those screws separate from Hitec.
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Old 05-20-2005, 06:43 AM   #13110
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Quote:
Originally posted by tomlau
JohnB,

thanks. what is 9.37-9.4??? that cant be mm, cm or inchs! or is that your gear ratio?
Oh buggar, where did that 9 come from? That should be 1.37" to 1.4" (inches). Thanks for catching that.

take care
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