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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-16-2002, 10:28 PM   #1291
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Default 1/12 sb

I am thinking f picking up an sb12 02, but i was curious, what tools do you guys use to make sure your toe and caster in the front are perfect?
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Old 08-16-2002, 11:42 PM   #1292
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Mark,

No I didn't. I had it in when I went to the track, but had to remove it to get my motor and the proper pinion on. Since then I've changed to a 100t spur and 29t pinion along with the screw and a flat nut. I'm going back out on Tuesday and will be able to tell you for sure if the center screw really helped. I'll change the camber to 1 deg also.

Thanks
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Old 08-17-2002, 12:59 AM   #1293
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Quote:
Originally posted by ausracer
sorry to ask so many questions but i cant find much info. what gauge wires does it use and does it have any kind of warranty. i am choosing between this and a quantum.
I'm using 14 gauge wire, but 12 would fit just fine. You can get more info at the Mtroniks website, it's http://www.mtroniks.net

It's rated for 8 turn or higher motors. I don't know what sort of warranty it has, I do know that no one in the United States services it so if I have any trouble it'll have to go to the UK, but I don't know what the situation in Australia is. The mtroniks website does list the distributors for many countries, you might see if they list the Australian distributor.

I got to drive it tonight for the first time, so far I'm pretty impressed with it, it seems linear and showed no signs of bad habits.

Trips
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Old 08-17-2002, 01:01 AM   #1294
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Quote:
Originally posted by Stika525
Okay 12L3 runners,

Still have an on power push...
...My current set-up:

stock settings
purple fronts
gray rears
2 deg neg camber
2.5 mm ride height

HELP!!!!
What's the caster set to, and what front springs are you running? Also, are you running TRC or Jaco tires?

T
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Old 08-17-2002, 01:02 AM   #1295
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Default Re: 1/12 sb

Quote:
Originally posted by Dimitri
I am thinking f picking up an sb12 02, but i was curious, what tools do you guys use to make sure your toe and caster in the front are perfect?
I'm using the good old MkIII eyeball.

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Old 08-17-2002, 02:10 AM   #1296
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Trips,

The castor is set at stock, which is one washer on each end. Tires are Jacos, purple frt, gray rr. Front springs are the kit standard ones, .16 or .18, not quite sure. I'll look again when I get home, but I know they're softer than the .20 that everybody has recomended. I didnt change to those because of the push.

Last edited by Stika525; 08-17-2002 at 02:17 AM.
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Old 08-17-2002, 02:13 AM   #1297
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Stika- Number one thing to do I would think is to increase your caster. What is it by the way? Try 4 or 6deg caster or dope more of the front end. What T-bar are you running and what are the front springs (.18, .20,.22)????

Dimitri- I use an RPM gauge and check caster by putting it up against the front of the suspension arms while setting it to the incline of the steering block between the suspension arms.

General- Remember that TRC and Jaco rims (wheels) have different off sets so that TRC rears will give a shorter track than Jaco's. TRC fronts vs. Jaco fronts need to be checked also for track differences.
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Old 08-17-2002, 02:20 AM   #1298
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Everything on the car is per the kit settings. I have yet to experiment due to the push. The car has only seen the track through 4 packs.
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Old 08-17-2002, 02:31 AM   #1299
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Stika- Need you to check the thickness of the T-bar (a thin-063" will push more than a thick-075"). Also, if you can please use a set of callipers and check the thickness of your front springs since a change in springs will alter handling characteristics. Finally, how much of the inside of the front tires are you putting tire traction compond on and find out what your caster is set at because first and foremost it sounds like you need to add more like Trips said.
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Old 08-17-2002, 03:00 AM   #1300
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darnold, what do you know? Stop talking like you know whats goin on. Just kidding, how ya been? When are you going to put away the slot car and start racing a sedan? Any way, get a hold of your buddy and get my number from him. I have some questions that I figure only you could answer. They are about drive frequency. L8
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Old 08-17-2002, 03:01 AM   #1301
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T-bar is 063, springs are .18, caster is 10 deg mount with 2 deg reactive. As I mentioned earlier, it's bone stock. These are all settings per the instruction manual.

BTW, thanks for the help guys.

Last edited by Stika525; 08-17-2002 at 10:22 PM.
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Old 08-17-2002, 08:18 AM   #1302
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Stika,

I'd run the thick (.075) tbar for carpet, also like darnold suggested I'd run more caster. IF there's any slop in the front springs I'd shim it out too.

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Old 08-17-2002, 09:01 AM   #1303
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Alright trips, I'll try to get them to work, or mabey an upgrade, to mkIV? As soon as i start running the car i will poost my setup.
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Old 08-17-2002, 08:05 PM   #1304
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Okay, I'll try them both (one at a time of course) and report back.

Thanks again.
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Old 08-17-2002, 09:21 PM   #1305
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Just curious, but does anyone remember the 4wd 1/12 pan car from Kyosho back in the 80's? I think it was a Fantom but not sure. Anyone have one still? I think Hirobo might have come out with one too. Kind of like how the Micro RS4's are based (as far as setup goes.) Just wondering if anyone remembers them...
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