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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 05-05-2005, 04:42 PM   #13021
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Quote:
Originally posted by DavisMods
What I said above is what stands. If you or anyone else has more questions about the race and want an honest, straight forward answer, please feel free to contact me directly at ROARpromos@aol.com
Ok, Brad is the final word on this. What he said stands and he is the one to go to if you have any concerns. Im sorry for any confusion. We have been trying to clear this whole mess up for a while
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Old 05-05-2005, 06:35 PM   #13022
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Jeez...this is so confusing...I live down here in San Antonio, TX, and race at the track that is hosting the Pan Car Champs; and talking to the guys down here, we don't even know what the rule is on the batteries.


ALTHOUGH...on the entry form, I believe it said, 1/12th scale 4-cell mod.


From my racer's point of view: leave it just 4-cell, mixing the classes screws things up, especially when virtually no-one runs 6-cell anymore in the states.

-Mike
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Old 05-05-2005, 06:42 PM   #13023
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Default Re: Re: Re: A semi rookie question....

Quote:
Originally posted by Mabuchi540
Mind if I ask what those +/- points are? And which of them would be best out of the box with a kit set up (if they have one that is)?

And do the diffs take standard 48p spurs so I could use my Yokomo spurs and pinions?
*bump*
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Old 05-05-2005, 06:43 PM   #13024
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If you want a clear honest and straightforward and FINAL answer, you along with all your buddies email Brad at the email address he provided. He will clear the air about this. I will have him talk to Mr. Baisdon as well. Im the promoter but this is at this point, between you guys, Brad, Mr. Baisdon and Lou Laduca. Im not going to muddy the water any more in regards to this
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Old 05-05-2005, 06:47 PM   #13025
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Quote:
Originally posted by theisgroup
hey mike

I was there. I won the b main in 1/12. I was the one that mike was making fun of on the stand. Had bad qual and never could get my head out of my butt that saturday. having a new chassis probably did not help either

I have decent batts. but I seam to dump about 7:20-7:30 with a 10x1 on carpet. hoping that the asphalt will be a little more forgiving on batteries. We don't have an outdoor track so will be there all day friday to work on setup. I only have a few pairs of magentas. on carpet for mod, that was just way too much to handle. but I can see where you might need a little more on asphalt. I will wait to here what you find out. and maybe even a setup to start from. I will be running a tbar car, but the front end should be close. also if there are guysthere with a tbar car, can you check with them if they are running the softer bar? I will have to order some of those since on carpet we run nothing but the stiffy.

thanks again.

We are running .063 t plates down here in San Antonio. Mike is right about the tire combo. I think the front end shouldn' t be too different you may have to go softer in the front at times. Hope this helps.
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Old 05-05-2005, 07:05 PM   #13026
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: A semi rookie question....

Quote:
Originally posted by Mabuchi540
*bump*
Sorry dude, I see much talk about the big race, but no answer to your question.

The second question is a defanite NO. 1/12 scale uses 64 pitch gears. You will like them, it makes for an easier gear change to make up for tire wear.

+ and - of T- bar car Vs Link car............................................... .................................................. ....................................... It could go on for evver. All kinds of claims are made for both, I honestly couldn't tell you which is better for what. I prefer the Link car, it made more sense to me, I could adjust side to side damping and spring rate totally seperate from fore aft spring rate and damping. To me there are many more tuning options. I drive a CK 3.1. THEN I bought my son a used 12L3. I drove it a few times and it seems I don't NEED all those set up options. The car drives great the way it comes out of the box. I still prefer the link car, but its a personal decision. Some swear by em , some swear at em.

Chevy......Ford........

Most have the Associated front end. New dynamic suspension, or Old skool? I run old skool, set it and forget it. Corally and Trinity have their own front ends (suspension). Which is best? I dunn

Buy the car that you can get parts for at your local hobby shop. It will ocassionally break and you will be bummed until its up and running again.

The biggest thing you will go through are tires and bodys once you stop hitting things.

Most of all have fun
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Old 05-05-2005, 07:11 PM   #13027
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Default Re: Old skool....

I like the sound of that.

As for a local hobby shop/s, well there isn't one so whatever I get will probably have to be imported from the US, hence the need to ask.

I do like the sound of having more adjustments (if) they are needed, even though as you say you probably don't need/use them. It's nice to know they are there.

Thanks.
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Old 05-05-2005, 08:50 PM   #13028
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Quote:
Originally posted by DavisMods
Just to clear things up a bit, the rules clearly state that the call for what number of cells to run can be made by the Track itself. I'm here to let everyone know that ALL 1/12th scale classes will be 4 cells. Hope this clears the confusion.
Since this is not an "official" ROAR event we have the option to modify the rules as needed. I'm pretty sure it will be 4 cell only in all 1/12th classes. All our local San Antonio drivers have switched to 4 cell....which is now the "standard" .

Hope to see more racers attend the USPCC,
Paul
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Old 05-05-2005, 08:56 PM   #13029
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P2,

I'd like to go but I don't think it will happen, not enough vaca and $.

I think picco has mentioned you to me a few times, you are EJ's friend? I also think I may of met you at The Stockton carpet track once or twice.

I have a redline 9x2 which I use in 12th mod (not for a while though been racing stock recently). It's a fast motor but it's thirsty.

Chris.
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Old 05-06-2005, 12:52 AM   #13030
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Default Re: Re: Old skool....

Quote:
Originally posted by Mabuchi540
I like the sound of that.

As for a local hobby shop/s, well there isn't one so whatever I get will probably have to be imported from the US, hence the need to ask.

I do like the sound of having more adjustments (if) they are needed, even though as you say you probably don't need/use them. It's nice to know they are there.

Thanks.
Hi,

Where abouts in NZ are you from. I run a CRC car here, and I just love it, for me it is heaps easier to drive than my Trinity Switchblade.

Oh and yes you can use 48P gears as long as the spur has holes for ball bearings to go in for the diff. 48P is all I use at present.

Hobby Direct carry Associated parts so that will have you covered for front end parts for the CRC, however, rear end parts you will have to get direct from them. With an Associated car you would have all the parts on hand in NZ
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Old 05-06-2005, 01:24 AM   #13031
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Quote:
Originally posted by trackdesigner71
We got into a real mess with trying to split the classes so that's why we just call it 1/12 stock and mod and that is the only split we have. We are going ROAR rules. That is what I have said and that is the way it's going to be fast-ho-cars.
i didn't know that the decision to run them separate had changed again. i remember in the thread concerning this race there was alot of talk/issues about this.
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Old 05-06-2005, 01:40 AM   #13032
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Thumbs up Thanks for replying....

Quote:
Originally posted by Seano
Hi,

Where abouts in NZ are you from. I run a CRC car here, and I just love it, for me it is heaps easier to drive than my Trinity Switchblade.

Oh and yes you can use 48P gears as long as the spur has holes for ball bearings to go in for the diff. 48P is all I use at present.

Hobby Direct carry Associated parts so that will have you covered for front end parts for the CRC, however, rear end parts you will have to get direct from them. With an Associated car you would have all the parts on hand in NZ
I'm in the Manawatu area. I'm looking at getting one (with some spares) as soon as I can sell my newish CGM (well ok it's brand new because I'd have to make it up from unused parts). lol

Last edited by Mabuchi540; 05-06-2005 at 06:54 AM.
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Old 05-06-2005, 01:48 AM   #13033
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Cool, you have one hell of an awesome track to drive it on thats for sure

As for using a 540 silver can motor, I have seen someone use one with 6 cell and it wasn't too bad but am unsure what it would be like with 4 cells. I would try a prostock motor, I recommend a trinity monster stock pro.

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Old 05-06-2005, 09:04 PM   #13034
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Heh guys need some help. I'm using Jaco fronts on a L4 and am trying a flanged bearing on the inside. I took the inside shim out and moved it to the outside to compensate for the flange on the bearing, but it obviously doesn't equal out making the front track with a little wider. My question is, I'm assuming this will make the car have less stearing in the front. Correct?
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Old 05-06-2005, 09:07 PM   #13035
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Quote:
Originally posted by edseb
Heh guys need some help. I'm using Jaco fronts on a L4 and am trying a flanged bearing on the inside. I took the inside shim out and moved it to the outside to compensate for the flange on the bearing, but it obviously doesn't equal out making the front track with a little wider. My question is, I'm assuming this will make the car have less stearing in the front. Correct?

i used to use flanged bearing in the inside on my l3. i didnt notice any significant change. like what pontiac says "wider is better"
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