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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 05-03-2005, 01:52 PM   #12976
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Default Re: Chargers

Quote:
Originally posted by jag
What do you guys use/recommend for a battery charger? I am in need of a new one. I have a 30a discharge tray and a Novak Smart Tray. The ones I have been looking at are:

LRP - Pulsar Comp. 2
Integy - INDI 16X3v6 Computerized Charger
Duratrax - ICE
Orion - Advantage

Any thoughts or comments?
LRP Comp 2 for the money you spend you get a good amount of features. motor run in, discharge (but you got 30amp) and charge
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Old 05-03-2005, 01:56 PM   #12977
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Quote:
Originally posted by jrrc
Crashby,

Are we going eagle hunting Saturday @ Ripon?
The Great American Indian chiefs used eagle feathers for their war headdresses. I think some eagle tail feathers will do for us.
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Old 05-03-2005, 02:14 PM   #12978
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Default

Quote:
Originally posted by CypressMidWest
No one expects.........The SPANISH INQUISITION!!!!

Now go away or I shall be forced to taunt you a second time....
You english k-nig-hts
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Old 05-03-2005, 02:49 PM   #12979
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Quote:
Originally posted by Crashby
The Great American Indian chiefs used eagle feathers for their war headdresses. I think some eagle tail feathers will do for us.
Is this the eagle with the crimson tattoo and is wanted?
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Old 05-03-2005, 02:55 PM   #12980
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Quote:
Originally posted by Brian McGreevy
You english k-nig-hts
How art thou Sire McGreevy?
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Old 05-03-2005, 02:57 PM   #12981
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I am jolly.

How art thou, Sire Ruggles?

Me thinks me 12th scale commeth rather soon.
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Old 05-03-2005, 03:33 PM   #12982
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Crashby,

That is all you have been seeing so far.... My tailfeathers. I will however be looking forward to an enjoyable meeting on Saturday, just be ready to bring it on.

Incedentally, how was your two day thing last week?

Chris.
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Old 05-03-2005, 03:38 PM   #12983
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Hi Guys
Your help is needed. I have seen some pictures on here of cars with the newer style Associated front end fitted with a different ball joint on the top outboard link (I think one was Barry Bakers). It looked white or grey in the picture and the purpose was to prevent the washers beneath the top E clip fouling the ball joint.
Can anyone provide me with any info regarding where to buy these?
Many thanks
Mark
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Old 05-03-2005, 03:42 PM   #12984
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It feels like I'm watching Monty and wrestling at the same time.

Mark you got a link to the pictures?
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Old 05-03-2005, 03:48 PM   #12985
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the easiest way to tell fiber direction you can polish the edges until you see almost like dark and light lines on the sides and front and rear edges.then look at the edges on the angled cuts.if the lines fade away that means that the fibers are layed at 0 and 90 degrees.all carbon fiber panels will have a 0 and 90 lay.if the lines continue on the angled edges then that is the layer at 45 degrees showing his face.when the fibers are layed at 0 90 and 45 degrees,the panel is now directional.it is more flexible in one direction.this is when you need to watch how you lay your chassis,upper braces,ect.
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Old 05-03-2005, 04:30 PM   #12986
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Mark,

The grey link is from BRP. It's not on their site so you have to email Bud to order some. The white plastic ball that fits into it is from RPM.

-James

Quote:
Originally posted by mark barford
Hi Guys
Your help is needed. I have seen some pictures on here of cars with the newer style Associated front end fitted with a different ball joint on the top outboard link (I think one was Barry Bakers). It looked white or grey in the picture and the purpose was to prevent the washers beneath the top E clip fouling the ball joint.
Can anyone provide me with any info regarding where to buy these?
Many thanks
Mark
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Old 05-03-2005, 05:23 PM   #12987
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Thanks James, I'll contact BRP tomorrow.
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Old 05-03-2005, 07:34 PM   #12988
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Quote:
Originally posted by mark barford
Hi Guys
Your help is needed. I have seen some pictures on here of cars with the newer style Associated front end fitted with a different ball joint on the top outboard link (I think one was Barry Bakers). It looked white or grey in the picture and the purpose was to prevent the washers beneath the top E clip fouling the ball joint.
Can anyone provide me with any info regarding where to buy these?
Many thanks
Mark
From what I could gather from race coverage of the Cleveland race and off of the internet, Bud Bartos of BRP gave those to a few of the drivers at that race to try. Barry's car had a pair on his car. They are basically just large captured ball ends or hiem joints. I have seen lots of smaller units but the trick is finding some that the camber adjusting turnbuckle will fit into. Because the stock Associated piece is so large, it can come in contact with the steering block. To prevent that from happening, you have to use a lot of shims to space the link up away from the steering block. This in turn makes getting the suspension to fit inside of the wheel a problem.

Those "gray" pieces are probably available someplace. Try some of the RC airplane sites. If you find them, post the location on this site so we all can get them!!
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Old 05-03-2005, 07:43 PM   #12989
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Quote:
Originally posted by crimson eagle
Crashby,

That is all you have been seeing so far.... My tailfeathers. I will however be looking forward to an enjoyable meeting on Saturday, just be ready to bring it on.

Incedentally, how was your two day thing last week?

Chris.
The track at the two day Ground Pounders race was extremely difficult. There was a very narrow three point chicane that you had to take fast or get rammed from behind. But if you missed!! You never thought you would stop cart wheeling! Jim took TQ in 1/12th 19T oval, Stock sedan and 1/12th 19T road! He finished second in oval, second in sedan and first in 1/12th road. Jim and I had a nose to tail battle in the main that lasted for over four minutes. He finally caught a disc and cart wheeled past the lap counter and missed a lap. On the last lap I got caught up with a back marker and Jim passed me with two corners left for the win. They had me down as the winner but we clarified it after the race. I had the fastest car but could not get any luck with the back markers. In the main I had three laps at 19.1. Jim had one lap at 19.2.

Shake your tail feathers, Baby cuz we is lookin for a bird to pluck!!
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Old 05-03-2005, 08:30 PM   #12990
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Default top ball joint

Those ball joints are from "rocket city" and the delrin balls they use are from Trinity. You have to trim the overall length and drill out the end so the larger turnbuckle will fit. I use them and they work great!! Less slop and more clearance around the stearing block.
Wayne
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