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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 05-03-2005, 09:15 AM   #12961
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Quote:
Originally posted by protc3
i agree crashby,flex is definately a tuning option.alot of it depends on the layout of the suspension components and weight distribution.if you cannot get the car to grip in low traction surfaces,flex will give you that needed traction.the bad thing is that it is not consistant.the car never flexes the same twice and will also fatigue the material.in alot of cases it is necesarry but i personally run my cars as rigid as i can.if i need felx i will use it but the rule is,the stiffer the faster as long as it stays on the track.
our chassis for the 1/12th was designed for carpet racing,but because of the placement of the suspension components,it opened a new window of adjustment that allowed it to work extremely well on asphalt.thats all i have to run on .and yes,it gets scratched like a mother but it is so fast.
You guys!! You’re just going to make me have to order another conversion kit to run on asphalt. Do you plan on any new colors in the very near future? If not, I guess I will place an order for another kit this week.

Any idea when the lowered pod plates will be available? I may wait until they are available before I place my next order.

Thanks for the outstanding service and great kits!!
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Old 05-03-2005, 09:20 AM   #12962
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Quote:
Originally posted by PMK
Some are predicting the CF shortage will be about 18 months, time will tell.

Pro TC are you accomplishing all carbon fab inhouse or just the cutting?

Given time I will form a new plate, however it will not be Quasi. For these lighter cars equal strength in all directions seems overkill and heavy.

As for the oem L4 plate, it may not be Quasi-isotropic but it definately is not molded bi directional @0 90. From the crash damage it obviously has the following schedule of a plain woven exterior a unidirectional 90, followed by a -45, and god knows what's next. I would guess a +45 followed by a 90. I doubt it has any 0 orientation plies as they are just extra weight.

As reference 0's would run parrallel to the motor shaft in my example.

And yes this could all be in error beneath the exposed plies.

And Crashby, on those channels did you deal with Fred at Composite Craft or Kim?

PK
I cannot remember what happened yesterday let alone 25 years ago!! I do remember that they were very accommodating and filled orders very quickly. They were a great company to do business with.

Are they still operational?
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Old 05-03-2005, 10:32 AM   #12963
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Default Re: Re: Rollout?

Quote:
Originally posted by Pro4Capece
To calculate roll-out, I believe that tire circumference is necessary.
I'm well aware that tire circumference is necessary to calculate rollout, but I'm just asking for a starting point rollout value to get me in the ballpark. The whole point of rollout is to achieve (using gearing) the same forward displacement per motor revolution no matter what diameter tires you have.
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Old 05-03-2005, 10:38 AM   #12964
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Guys,

I ran the thick CRC t-fource kit at Modesto and did pretty good there, good traction though.

I also ran the MS2.2 at Ripon and you cannot get a much stiffer chassis than that and I did pretty good there too.

Chris.
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Old 05-03-2005, 11:46 AM   #12965
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Professor,


I'm running around 43mm rollout on a Revenge of the Monster stock motor in my Rev3. THat's on a pretty short carpet track, typically we're looking at 7.8-8.0 seconds a lap. You might want to go up to 45mm or so from there.

Sorry, I haven't run enough 19 to give a recommendation.

D
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Old 05-03-2005, 11:58 AM   #12966
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Default rollout

Rollout will vary a great deal depending on the motor you are using. I haven't used anything but a Monster for stock in a long time, and we roll out at 44-45 on our big carpet track.
19 turn motors are really different. For example I use a rollout of about 55 for a Reedy spec 19 motor and about 39 for the old Pro Match spec 19 I run, and they are both about the same speed on the track.
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Old 05-03-2005, 12:02 PM   #12967
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Quote:
Originally posted by crimson eagle
Guys,

I ran the thick CRC t-fource kit at Modesto and did pretty good there, good traction though.

I also ran the MS2.2 at Ripon and you cannot get a much stiffer chassis than that and I did pretty good there too.

Chris.
But is it as stiff as your upper lip?
Watch out Saturday, the Hoard of Three is out for revenge!
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Old 05-03-2005, 12:23 PM   #12968
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(Monty python mode on)

I snort dirisively at your limp feeble upper lips, your hoardish threesome (oo er) will not even widen a nostril as it bounces ineffectively from the carbon woven toughness of my upper lip...

(monty python mode off)

I think that answers your question OD.
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Old 05-03-2005, 12:25 PM   #12969
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I fart in your general direction.....
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Old 05-03-2005, 12:36 PM   #12970
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Quote:
Originally posted by rayhuang
I fart in your general direction.....
No one expects.........The SPANISH INQUISITION!!!!

Now go away or I shall be forced to taunt you a second time....
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Old 05-03-2005, 12:44 PM   #12971
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The inquisition-what a show!!!
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Old 05-03-2005, 12:52 PM   #12972
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Quote:
Originally posted by rayhuang
The inquisition-what a show!!!
You know, we're sick, sick people you and I.
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Old 05-03-2005, 01:13 PM   #12973
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Quote:
Originally posted by crimson eagle
Guys,

I ran the thick CRC t-fource kit at Modesto and did pretty good there, good traction though.

I also ran the MS2.2 at Ripon and you cannot get a much stiffer chassis than that and I did pretty good there too.

Chris.
I ran my Yokomo/CRC mongrel last weekend and my car was consistently a tenth to two tenths faster than JRRC 12L4 with a thick chassis. I think in stock the chassis thickness is not as much of an issue but as you go up in hot motors, I think a thinner chassis works better. At least for me.

And CE, be forewarned. The axis of evil will soon be upon you. I am tuning the cooling holes in my stock motor to whistle Yankee Doodle Dandy while at speed.
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Old 05-03-2005, 01:17 PM   #12974
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Crashby,

Are we going eagle hunting Saturday @ Ripon?
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Old 05-03-2005, 01:51 PM   #12975
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Default Chargers

What do you guys use/recommend for a battery charger? I am in need of a new one. I have a 30a discharge tray and a Novak Smart Tray. The ones I have been looking at are:

LRP - Pulsar Comp. 2
Integy - INDI 16X3v6 Computerized Charger
Duratrax - ICE
Orion - Advantage

Any thoughts or comments?
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