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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 05-01-2005, 05:41 PM   #12916
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Default Re: 12th scale website

Quote:
Originally posted by Jeff Brown
hey guys, back years ago I used to run a 12th scale only website. Buddy and I were thinking about putting it back up online. Just wondering if there would be interest for it.

Setups...... reports..... tips and tricks...... racers rides.... everything. All just 12th scale. Thanks.

Jeff
Sounds good to me, i always like seeing different setups, pics, tips and tricks
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Old 05-01-2005, 05:44 PM   #12917
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yeah, i used to maintain "12th scale journal". I still have all the info and files. I just need to update some things. I will check into it. Friend that used to help me with it suggested throwing it back up.

I used to get setups from Cyrul, Spashett, Blackstock, Orr, etc etc. Shared a lot of my racing secrets or some from other diehard 12th fans.

Jeff
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Old 05-01-2005, 06:09 PM   #12918
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The more the better!
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Old 05-01-2005, 06:51 PM   #12919
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Quote:
Originally posted by crimson eagle
Charlie,
On a more serious note, next week is going to be great as Jrrc and Ashby are going very well. OD may of knocked some more of his rust off too. If we can get two finals going then a little of the chance element will be reduced.

Chris
And I could be the guy who get out of your way...
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Old 05-01-2005, 07:26 PM   #12920
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Default Chassis Plates

Curious if anyone here has analyzed the layups of a broken chassis plate? I ask since I have a have worked aerospace composites for a while and was curious if the different brands all use similar layups or do they have proprietary carbon sheets.

My oem L4 took a wack so I kind of studied it a little but not enough to make it unrepairable. Seems like they are stacking double plys together with a scrim between each paired set.

This seemed suprising as the same type methods were used in the early days by Composite Craft. I would think the technology would be further than this after 15 years.

And why does everyone use a plain weave fabric? At least that's all I've noticed. So many other choices.

PK

Jag has that car even run yet? 1/12 is picking up and may surpass 1/10 on Wednesday nights.
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Old 05-01-2005, 07:34 PM   #12921
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Default 1/12 scale journal

I remember a while back cruising the web and came accross that site. Never found it again til now. I would like having a specific site also. With the internet it's nice to have so much info to sort thru, a little more won't hurt.

PK
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Old 05-01-2005, 07:42 PM   #12922
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Default Re: Chassis Plates

Quote:
Originally posted by PMK
Curious if anyone here has analyzed the layups of a broken chassis plate? I ask since I have a have worked aerospace composites for a while and was curious if the different brands all use similar layups or do they have proprietary carbon sheets.

My oem L4 took a wack so I kind of studied it a little but not enough to make it unrepairable. Seems like they are stacking double plys together with a scrim between each paired set.

This seemed suprising as the same type methods were used in the early days by Composite Craft. I would think the technology would be further than this after 15 years.

And why does everyone use a plain weave fabric? At least that's all I've noticed. So many other choices.

PK

Jag has that car even run yet? 1/12 is picking up and may surpass 1/10 on Wednesday nights.
Cost, it's all about cost. If I told you what AE pays for one of their L4 chassis, you would cry. The majority of manufacturers use bi-directional which is one of the cheapest carbon fiber plates available. That woven layer is just on the top and bottom for looks. I searched around for a while and the best I could find was four directional quasi-isotropic plate. It's far stiffer and although it's significantly more expensive, I'll be using it on our 12th scale and fk05 carpet cnversion.
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Old 05-01-2005, 07:46 PM   #12923
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Bill,

I'm not buying any of that at all, wasn't so long back that you weren't much further than a lap back on the rug. You are not that far away dude.

Rev,

Bring me your car as soon as you get to the track next week, you have a few things that needs to be taken care of.

Chris.
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Old 05-01-2005, 08:10 PM   #12924
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Default Re: Re: Chassis Plates

Quote:
Originally posted by Hyperform Racing
Cost, it's all about cost. If I told you what AE pays for one of their L4 chassis, you would cry. The majority of manufacturers use bi-directional which is one of the cheapest carbon fiber plates available. That woven layer is just on the top and bottom for looks. I searched around for a while and the best I could find was four directional quasi-isotropic plate. It's far stiffer and although it's significantly more expensive, I'll be using it on our 12th scale and fk05 carpet cnversion.
Hyperform
Agreed the plain woven are exterior "sanding plies". It appears they are using unidirectional interior plies. However it seems they are not accomplishing the plate in one shot. Rather stacking several previously cured 2 ply (?) plates and bonding with possibly a prepreg scrim.

I suppose with all the plies on the oem L4 it too is quasi-isotropic.

I also searched around for fabric to use as chassis material and fabricated a Quasi-isotropic plate. I used 4HS weave for all plies. Time will tell if I made good choices.

The first plate was a Carbon-blue kevlar outer ply with a non quasi-isotropic center plies. Didn't cut it as it seemed too soft.

PK
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Old 05-01-2005, 08:17 PM   #12925
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AE uses bi-directional, not quasi. I know where they get there carbon from and I know the person who cuts them. Nobody that I know of uses quasi in this industry...
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Old 05-01-2005, 08:26 PM   #12926
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Quote:
Originally posted by crimson eagle
Bill,

I'm not buying any of that at all, wasn't so long back that you weren't much further than a lap back on the rug. You are not that far away dude.

Rev,

Bring me your car as soon as you get to the track next week, you have a few things that needs to be taken care of.

Chris.
Thanks Chris.

Rev and I are having fun with you guys.
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Old 05-01-2005, 08:33 PM   #12927
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does anyone have a good setting for a KO VFS-1 esc for 19 turn???

the KO site only shows stock and mod settings
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Old 05-01-2005, 08:39 PM   #12928
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Default Rollout?

Can anyone give me a starting point for rollout? I'm interested in rollout for both stock and 19T motors. I'll be running outdoor asphalt, but I don't know what distance the running line is. I do know that it takes us about 16 sec. a lap running 19T touring, if that's any help.

Thanks for any suggestions,
Brian
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Old 05-01-2005, 10:13 PM   #12929
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Quote:
Originally posted by crimson eagle
Bill,

I'm not buying any of that at all, wasn't so long back that you weren't much further than a lap back on the rug. You are not that far away dude.

Rev,

Bring me your car as soon as you get to the track next week, you have a few things that needs to be taken care of.

Chris.
Chris,
Ok will try to make it.

Bill,
What are you talking about? You're up with the big boys.
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Old 05-01-2005, 10:22 PM   #12930
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Quote:
Originally posted by revzalot
Bill,
What are you talking about? You're up with the big boys.
But I'm getting further behind all the time by messing with my JRX-S instead of my 12L4.
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