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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 08-15-2002, 07:31 PM   #1276
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hi guys...need to noe wats the ideal gearing for a 9x2 both 6 and 4 cells...thanx btw i'm runnin a sp12g3 on tarmac, track is pretty small and i want more "pick up" rather than rpm...
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Old 08-15-2002, 09:55 PM   #1277
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Here's a look at the front chassis brace I made for my Switchblade as a temporary solution until Trinity can get a real one to me. I said it would be ugly, and I wasn't kidding...

You can also see the Mtroniks Cubic speed control in there... look close, the thing is tiny.



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Old 08-15-2002, 11:40 PM   #1278
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I would stay with that one, looks nice.
I have one question how come my switchblade does not staighten out?
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Old 08-16-2002, 02:01 AM   #1279
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Ozone- Not sure how many times there is an ideal gearing for any motor. I try to gear according to the power curve of the motor regardless of the track. I do this by dynoing the motor and finding the rpm's that peak h.p. occurs at. From there I try to gear in order to get at the peak h.p.. Many gear according to the longest straight so that the motor winds out about 3/4 of the way down it. Using my method (you sure you want to try this? LOL!) I have found that in general Ti motors peak h.p. occurs around these rpm's:
11 Turn= 16-17k (30/100 at 1.85" Rear Tire for all subsquent)
10 Turn= 18-19k (28/100)
9 Turn= 22k (25/100)
8 Turn= 25k (23/100)

It seems like P94's in my dyno testing develop their h.p. in a higher rpm range so I would lower 1-2 teeth on the pinion for each wind.


I now run the Luna Ti Motor for SpeedWorld/Sorex and after some initial testing have found its powerband to be similar to the P94's even though it is Ti based. These motors are awesome and I will be running these pure over the counter motors this season. The winding job is awesome like an Orion and the wire combinations, balancing, and magnets are great. If you guys are looking to try a motor give SpeedWorld a call or you can order online from them. I highly recommend the 9W if you will only be running Sanyo HV's and the 9S if you will be running the new 3300's. If you want a 10turn initial testing by other team members has shown the doubles to be best. Also the 8 Turns are great and would highly recommend them if you think you can make time or just want to try the speed. Something else you will notice is the smoothness and efficiency of the motors so give them a try.

BTW in no way am I saying that other motors aren't great and shouldn't be tried. I am simply saying that after testing over the counter Luna winds from SpeedWorld I was really impressed with what I ran and wanted to let everyone else know about them.

Hope this helps.
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Old 08-16-2002, 02:17 AM   #1280
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Trips- Good job dude. BTW you may want to try the rear suspension links (towards the servo) in the hole further outward so that the front and back links are parallel. This gives more camber gain which allows you to use less reactive caster. Try both positions and let me know what you think. You may also want to try the medium ball stud for the back links to get a little more reactive caster. Again I would be interested in whatt you think about it.

Also, you probably want to round off the front of the clevises so that the outside front wheel doesn't catch when turned near maximum deflection. The instruction manual mentions it in section 15 noting it as a racers tip.

Regarding the radio install, if you can you may want to sit your rx on its long side and mount it behind the servo. That way you can put the transponder mount on the chassis for lower cg.
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Old 08-16-2002, 02:28 AM   #1281
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darnold: thanx for the tips dude....btw no way i can try ur method as i hav got no dyno
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Old 08-16-2002, 02:31 AM   #1282
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AE Racer- Not sure what you mean by "switchblade doesn't want to straighten out". If you mean that going down the straight away the car doesn't run straight then I would check your wheel alignment (toe).

You probably already know all of this but I will post it for review just in cases.

Set the wheels so that they are straight when the servo is dead center.

Then I would make sure the steering trim is set to center for equal steering left to right.

With all of this done if the servo is not dead center when the system is on then you need to pull of the servo saver from the servo and put it back on as close to center as possible.

Then if you have sub trim on your radio I would use that to get the servo to be centered from there.

Also your front tires need to be pretty close to the same size and the rears to for that matter. A slipping diff can cause the car to pull when you get on the power but so to can low grip. Also check your tweak like the instruction tell you before every run just to make sure because that could cause symptoms of what you may be describing.

If you mean something else we will need more info in order for someone to help you out so let us know.
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Old 08-16-2002, 08:15 AM   #1283
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Quote:
Originally posted by darnold
Trips- Good job dude. BTW you may want to try the rear suspension links (towards the servo) in the hole further outward so that the front and back links are parallel. This gives more camber gain which allows you to use less reactive caster. Try both positions and let me know what you think. You may also want to try the medium ball stud for the back links to get a little more reactive caster. Again I would be interested in whatt you think about it.

Also, you probably want to round off the front of the clevises so that the outside front wheel doesn't catch when turned near maximum deflection. The instruction manual mentions it in section 15 noting it as a racers tip.

Regarding the radio install, if you can you may want to sit your rx on its long side and mount it behind the servo. That way you can put the transponder mount on the chassis for lower cg.
Thanks for the tips...

It's not clear in the picture, but those are the tall ballstuds in the rear, I'll try the other combinations when the real part arrives.

I did notch the fronts of the clevises a bit, again, it's not really clear in the pic.

AS far as the receiver goes, that XXXTRA is in there just for tonight, I'm getting an XXL to replace it in this car.
Later,

T
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Old 08-16-2002, 11:21 AM   #1284
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where did you get the mtroniks cubic esc and how much did it cost. i saw a picture and it is 2cm long, less than an inch.
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Old 08-16-2002, 11:28 AM   #1285
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Quote:
Originally posted by ausracer
where did you get the mtroniks cubic esc and how much did it cost. i saw a picture and it is 2cm long, less than an inch.
Small...it certainly is!!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg cubic.jpg (82.9 KB, 127 views)
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Old 08-16-2002, 11:59 AM   #1286
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Hobby People and Maximizer Products both sell the Mtroniks speedos.

http://www.hobbypeople.net
http://www.maximizerproducts.com



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Old 08-16-2002, 12:21 PM   #1287
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sorry to ask so many questions but i cant find much info. what gauge wires does it use and does it have any kind of warranty. i am choosing between this and a quantum.
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Old 08-16-2002, 12:58 PM   #1288
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It looks like you can solder any wire on there that you want to (which I like)

It also looks like it's amp capacity is waaay beyond what the Quantam has. . .

So, how reliable is it, how good is it. . .etc.
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Old 08-16-2002, 09:50 PM   #1289
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Okay 12L3 runners,

Still have an on power push. Couldn't do the center screw in the T-plate thing because my motor wouldn't slide up enough to get my pinion on and didn't have my Screw box with me. I have since replaced the lock nut with one that's flatter for that ever precious space needed for motor adjustments. So it's back in. Is there anythig else I should try to gain more steering. Again, this is an on power push I'm trying to get rid of. My current set-up:


stock settings
purple fronts
gray rears
2 deg neg camber
2.5 mm ride height

HELP!!!!

Last edited by Stika525; 08-16-2002 at 09:53 PM.
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Old 08-16-2002, 10:26 PM   #1290
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Try less front camber. 1 degree should be enough and that will add all-around steering.

Did you actually get to run it with the center screw in the T-bar? Sorry, Im not quite clear on that.
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