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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-27-2005, 12:29 PM   #12841
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Quote:
Originally posted by jag
How much bigger are they and what is the major difference between 3300 & 3700?
3700 cells are .020" larger in diameter than 3300's. The biggest difference is longer run time.
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Old 04-27-2005, 12:34 PM   #12842
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Default Re: Battery Lesson

Quote:
Originally posted by jag
Would someone be so kind as to tell me what all those numbers are on the batteries and what are the important ones?

Thanks
check out the expaination on the Pro Match web site- http://www.promatchracing.com/main.htm
Look under "Support" and "What the numbers on a matched cell mean". It's the best expaination I have read.
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Old 04-27-2005, 01:39 PM   #12843
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Default Re: Re: Battery Lesson

Quote:
Originally posted by odpurple
check out the expaination on the Pro Match web site- http://www.promatchracing.com/main.htm
Look under "Support" and "What the numbers on a matched cell mean". It's the best expaination I have read.
Will do.

Thanks
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Old 04-27-2005, 01:41 PM   #12844
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Quote:
Originally posted by Hyperform Racing
jag, you should be looking at the charge/discharge numbers, average voltage, runtime, internal resistance, voltage cutoff and runout.

Most matchers charge the cells at 5 or 6 amps and discharge at 30. Watch for those who discharge at 20 amps instead, it will inflate the numbers. Also watch out for those who play with the voltage cutoff, the standard is 0.9. Some will stop the voltage averaging early to inflate the numbers. The standard for runout is 5000.

The higher the average voltage, the more top speed you will have, the lower the internal resistance, the more punch you will have. Runtime is runtime... Make sure whatever cells you go with have all these numbers printed on the label. We print charge/discharge amperage, average voltage, runtime, cut off voltage, runout, average internal AND relative internal resistance as well as mahr on our cells. Hope this helps...
This helps a lot. Can you tell me what good average voltage and internal resistance numbers would be for 3300 cells?

Thanks
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Old 04-27-2005, 01:44 PM   #12845
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Quote:
Originally posted by odpurple
3700 cells are .020" larger in diameter than 3300's. The biggest difference is longer run time.
No more power? Does longer run time allow you to do other things to make the car faster... gearing, tire height, etc?
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Old 04-27-2005, 01:46 PM   #12846
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Good average voltage numbers are high 1.17s like 1.178-1.179. Excellent average voltage numbers are 1.18+. Good internal resistance numbers are 2.4-2.5. Excellent internal resistance numbers are 2.2-2.3. Glad I could help...
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Old 04-27-2005, 01:53 PM   #12847
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Quote:
Originally posted by jag
No more power? Does longer run time allow you to do other things to make the car faster... gearing, tire height, etc?
The biggest difference I've found in running 3700's is that the race is over before they start to tail off. That means you will run 8 mins faster than you would with 3300's with everything else the same. I run the same gearing for both types of battery.
We adjust our gearing to get the best punch on the infield combined with best speed on the straight since run time (for stock) is not an issue with either type of battery.
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Old 04-27-2005, 02:22 PM   #12848
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I was using the t-fource battery retainers when I ran the 3700's and it seemed fine. I have since been told that the car handles better if you don't use the retainers but I don't want to rip my labels off with tape. Any ideas about that anyone? I was told to use clear nail varnish or superglue. I have tried them both and don't really like either.

Chris
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Old 04-27-2005, 02:27 PM   #12849
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Shrink wrap the cells. You can also use speedmerchant battery tape which only sticks to itself.
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Old 04-27-2005, 02:28 PM   #12850
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Put a clear shrinkwrap on each cell, that's what I always do.
This way you protect the standard shrinkwrap with the label on and you can glue the cells together, so it's stronger and holds it together.
If you want to change it, you can cut away the clear shrinkwrap (with the glue on) and everything looks like new.
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Old 04-27-2005, 02:36 PM   #12851
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tekin
Put a clear shrinkwrap on each cell, that's what I always do.
This way you protect the standard shrinkwrap with the label on and you can glue the cells together, so it's stronger and holds it together.
If you want to change it, you can cut away the clear shrinkwrap (with the glue on) and everything looks like new.
That works good unless you get an assembled pack. I like the pre-assembled Fusion packs... the quality is excellent.
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Old 04-27-2005, 03:03 PM   #12852
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Chris.....yes it was me same thing happend at the northwest race. My wear was good but i only had 3/4 power.
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Old 04-27-2005, 03:35 PM   #12853
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Quote:
Originally posted by crimson eagle
I was using the t-fource battery retainers when I ran the 3700's and it seemed fine. I have since been told that the car handles better if you don't use the retainers but I don't want to rip my labels off with tape. Any ideas about that anyone? I was told to use clear nail varnish or superglue. I have tried them both and don't really like either.

Chris
How about clear package sealing tape? Cut a strip long enough to go over the top and in between the cells.
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Old 04-27-2005, 03:41 PM   #12854
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Quote:
Originally posted by crimson eagle
I was using the t-fource battery retainers when I ran the 3700's and it seemed fine. I have since been told that the car handles better if you don't use the retainers but I don't want to rip my labels off with tape. Any ideas about that anyone? I was told to use clear nail varnish or superglue. I have tried them both and don't really like either.

Chris

Try some laminate.
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Old 04-27-2005, 05:06 PM   #12855
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Quote:
Originally posted by odpurple
The biggest difference I've found in running 3700's is that the race is over before they start to tail off. That means you will run 8 mins faster than you would with 3300's with everything else the same. I run the same gearing for both types of battery.
We adjust our gearing to get the best punch on the infield combined with best speed on the straight since run time (for stock) is not an issue with either type of battery.
But... I did turn in the fastest lap time of the day with my 3300's and not those cheater 3700!! Although, they were very, very good 3300's. And when I discharged my pack at the end of each run at 30 amps, I only had about 40 seconds left in them. I know that OD and JRRC had over 100 seconds left in their 3700's but I don't know if they discharged at 30 amps. I think the 3700's will prove themselves more valuable in modified races where you need the run time.

On another note: I don't know why we have to have ROAR membership if we are not going to run ROAR rules.

OK, Guys! Just kidding! I know this will start a lot of flack! I love stirring up the pot.
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