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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-25-2005, 07:40 AM   #12796
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Quote:
Originally posted by JRX-S Bill
I think you got it.

Refer to my previous picture for the only cell orientation that works on the Smart Tray...As far as I know.
Just call me Mr. Dumbass. Now the question is how do I know if my cells are still good? I know the blown one is bad but what about the others?
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Old 04-25-2005, 08:02 AM   #12797
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Quote:
Originally posted by jag
Just call me Mr. Dumbass. Now the question is how do I know if my cells are still good? I know the blown one is bad but what about the others?
My solution has been to start charging complete packs and to check (using a volt meter) what the voltage is of each cell during charging. If it is a number well above 1.5V for a cell; then, it's bad. My bad 3300 cells have normally been in the range of 2.3-3.0V each.

I do this ocassionally on my 4-cell and 6-cell packs to weed out bad cells.

Not sure what your batteries look like at this point; but, my GFX charger can do individual cells.

Edit...Oh, a tell tale thing about most bad cells I am seeing is that the bottoms (neg end) tend to bulge out (not flat) when they are bad.
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Last edited by JRX-S Bill; 04-25-2005 at 08:09 AM.
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Old 04-25-2005, 08:18 AM   #12798
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Quote:
Originally posted by JRX-S Bill
My solution has been to start charging complete packs and to check (using a volt meter) what the voltage is of each cell during charging. If it is a number well above 1.5V for a cell; then, it's bad. My bad 3300 cells have normally been in the range of 2.3-3.0V each.

I do this ocassionally on my 4-cell and 6-cell packs to weed out bad cells.

Not sure what your batteries look like at this point; but, my GFX charger can do individual cells.

Edit...Oh, a tell tale thing about most bad cells I am seeing is that the bottoms (neg end) tend to bulge out (not flat) when they are bad.
So I should begin charging the pack and check the voltage during the charge process?

All of the cells except one look fine. I put a charge in the better of the two packs and it seemed to charge fine. I then put it in the Smart Tray (the right way) and it took a long time for them to discharge. I was not there when the lights went out but I put it back in and two lights went out first and then one and then the last one... all within about 30 seconds. I will look them over closely tonight for any bulges. Do you replace individual cells in your packs or just replace the pack?
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Old 04-25-2005, 08:34 AM   #12799
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Do you guys watch the volts when your charging? I can watch the volts on my Tekin charger and see when a pack is not up to par. My really good new 4 cells will peak around 6.0 to 6.1 volts and as they get old start climbing up. Not real scientific, but a good indication of the pack condition.

take care
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Old 04-25-2005, 08:41 AM   #12800
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Quote:
Originally posted by JohnB
Do you guys watch the volts when your charging? I can watch the volts on my Tekin charger and see when a pack is not up to par. My really good new 4 cells will peak around 6.0 to 6.1 volts and as they get old start climbing up. Not real scientific, but a good indication of the pack condition.

take care
john
You guys are a little over my head here but I think my charger shows volts while it's charging. If I charge my packs @ 5.0 volts how does the battery get up to 6?

I apologize for my ignorance but I'm trying.
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Old 04-25-2005, 09:31 AM   #12801
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Your thinking of how many amps your charging at. Your charger should give you a voltage reading. I'm not an expert by any means, just something I've learned from Tekin and it's proved very usefully.

take care
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Old 04-25-2005, 09:34 AM   #12802
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Quote:
Originally posted by JohnB
Your thinking of how many amps your charging at. Your charger should give you a voltage reading. I'm not an expert by any means, just something I've learned from Tekin and it's proved very usefully.

take care
john
Oops, my bad. You see, I told you I was ignorant. I do think that my charger shows volts so I will check that out.

Thanks
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Old 04-25-2005, 10:53 AM   #12803
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So, I'm running an L4 with dampner tubes to the sides (IRS with white springs). I'm still using the tweak screws in the T-Bar.

Ppl fronts, green rears. I don't have the sizes, but they're cut down just a bit from brand new.

CEFX body.

Rake is flat, RH is about 4-4.5 (we have a transition from banked oval to flat so I have to run just a bit high so as not to ground out on the transitions. . .)

Car is pretty much hooked up, a bit neutral under mid and high-speed cornering but very controllable.

However, at the lowest speed portion of a turn, the car wants to pivot hard. It's like once it gets to a certain low speed, it catches and hooks hard.

That's about my only problem not driver-related! Any thing to look for?
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Old 04-25-2005, 12:21 PM   #12804
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what steering blocks are you using? 0,5 or 10 deg?
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Old 04-25-2005, 12:37 PM   #12805
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Anyone know where I can get a pair of AE chassis protectors for the 12L3? I think the part# is 4508.

Thanks,

James
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Old 04-25-2005, 01:27 PM   #12806
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Quote:
Originally posted by crimson eagle
Lazyeh,

Thanks for the tip, I'll try that out. I didn't have a problem with the straps though. i hate taping down cells.

Chris.

Cool, let me know how it works out for ya
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Old 04-25-2005, 01:34 PM   #12807
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I just picked up an l4 about 10 minutes ago from a friend brand new for 100, and after looking at the setup sheets online, the only thing stumping me concerns what t-bar spacers are. I dont totaly understand what they mean. Are they talking about the little black spacers on the end of the t-bar?
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Old 04-25-2005, 02:01 PM   #12808
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5 deg blocks.
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Old 04-25-2005, 02:31 PM   #12809
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Boomer
5 deg blocks. [/QUOTE

I had the problem you described with 10deg blocks. 0 or 5 blocks solved it but you are already using 5s...
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Old 04-25-2005, 02:49 PM   #12810
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Quote:
Originally posted by Boomer
So, I'm running an L4 with dampner tubes to the sides (IRS with white springs). I'm still using the tweak screws in the T-Bar.

Ppl fronts, green rears. I don't have the sizes, but they're cut down just a bit from brand new.

CEFX body.

Rake is flat, RH is about 4-4.5 (we have a transition from banked oval to flat so I have to run just a bit high so as not to ground out on the transitions. . .)

Car is pretty much hooked up, a bit neutral under mid and high-speed cornering but very controllable.

However, at the lowest speed portion of a turn, the car wants to pivot hard. It's like once it gets to a certain low speed, it catches and hooks hard.

That's about my only problem not driver-related! Any thing to look for?
Just out of curiousity, what do you have your steering dual rate set at?
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