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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-23-2005, 06:16 AM   #12751
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anyone know where I can pick up some shoe goo in the uk? had a look around couldn't find anywhere.

Later
Ed
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Old 04-23-2005, 06:49 AM   #12752
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Thanks JohnB!!

Does anyone know where I can buy such a BMI chassis?
I've looked at the BMI website but no 1/12 stuff to see...
(got a Associated but want different position for my battery)
Greetz!

Quote:
Originally posted by JohnB
Yes sir. That is a BMI chassis.
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Old 04-23-2005, 07:09 AM   #12753
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Quote:
Originally posted by TryHard
anyone know where I can pick up some shoe goo in the uk? had a look around couldn't find anywhere.

Later
Ed
i have heard that fender mender is similer stuff
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Old 04-23-2005, 07:20 AM   #12754
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Quote:
Originally posted by Benedict
Thanks JohnB!!

Does anyone know where I can buy such a BMI chassis?
I've looked at the BMI website but no 1/12 stuff to see...
(got a Associated but want different position for my battery)
Greetz!
you can email or pm protc3 on this forum or call bmi. they are working on the site to add the new products, but cars keep changing and it is just hard to keep up wiht what chassis kits are currently available.
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Old 04-23-2005, 08:01 AM   #12755
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thanks john_s, I'll have a look for that.

Ed
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Old 04-23-2005, 12:00 PM   #12756
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Default Gearing

Hey Guys,

I was wondering, how would you gear a Cameleon II on a 12. I know where to gear it on a touring car but i'm not sure if the same holds true when it come to 12 because of weight/drag/tire diameter differences.

Thanks in advance,
R.
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Old 04-23-2005, 01:02 PM   #12757
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Default Re: servo position

Quote:
Originally posted by sg1
Ian...
I love tape

Wayne
Now that I have to tape batteries in my Rev. 4, I've grown to love it so much I tape 'em in my PRO 4 too!!!
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Old 04-23-2005, 04:43 PM   #12758
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Well, had my first run with a 12th tonight, have to say it was really really good. These babys fly! (admitadly was using a 12x2 ).

However... there were a few interesting points.

1) I need a new rear axle, seems like the one i have on the car is split... so for the first few runs, after a slight knock the diff would go loose.... please I have ceramic balls in there now, at least they don't overheat!
2) My D4 is knackered... next time I'll put my Orion V2 12x3 in... should be better
3) Found the car very easy to tune... even with the tweak springs. easy to do with my tweak station.
Started out with a the kit standard soft rear spring and 30wt oil, with white side springs and hard damper oil. Car was way to pushy... understeered everywhere.
Followed a guide from the CRC site, and went to red side springs, and copper centre spring. Was so much better, car steered wherever I wanted. Quite impresse I got it to handle well, despite having no previous experience of the car... can only get better from here.

Next time I'll be using it will be in two weeks, fingers crossed it'll be more reliable (ended up not actually finishing any rounds). Good times.

Later
Ed
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Old 04-23-2005, 10:42 PM   #12759
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JohnB: When you mounted your servo flat, what angle are your steering turnbuckles at compared to the ballstuds on your servo saver? Are they at a 90 degree angle, or at a larger or smaller angle I dont know if you know what i am talking about, but was just wondering what angle they were at, and if the angle made a difference in ackerman or something. Mine are a little more than 90 degrees becasue I mounted the servo farther forward, or does the angle mess with bumpsteer?

What is the effect of making the rear pod above or below level with the chassis?( i dont know if I worded that right)
I am looking for a little bit more low speed steering and was wondering if maybe making my rear pod above, or below level with the chassis would solve the problem.
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Old 04-23-2005, 11:37 PM   #12760
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there was also something else I have been meaning to ask. I am having run time issues and was wondering what to do as far as charging and tuning wise. I charge at 5.5 amps, mainly becasue our race program flows so fast that I never have enough time to fully charge a pack at 4 amps, which would probobly give me some more run time...maybe not a lot, but a little. Is there anything I can do motor wise such as spring tuning? like softer or harder? I am currently runnng purple on positive, and green on negative for my monster stock pro.
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Old 04-23-2005, 11:58 PM   #12761
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Here she is, ready for tomorrow. Isn't she pretty?

Chris.
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Old 04-24-2005, 12:09 AM   #12762
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Default metal base for T bar

Hi,

I noticed that some 1/12 from japanese website got this solid
metal base to replace the first pivot of the T bar. ie... the T-bar
seems to be bolted onto the metal base instead of having treak
screw.

Please advise where to get those.
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Old 04-24-2005, 12:21 AM   #12763
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Quote:
Originally posted by crimson eagle
Here she is, ready for tomorrow. Isn't she pretty?

Chris.
Very nice! Good luck tomorrow and to all the stockton peeps. I won't be able to make it tomorrow but I'll hopefully be racing with you guys soon by next month. My War Hammer 12 is losing patience and I will unleash him soon.
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Old 04-24-2005, 02:08 AM   #12764
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Had a great run this evening! Only three of us tonight in SoCal, but we had a blast.

Main was close all the way through - all three of us on the main lap.

Traction was tricky for some reason - for nearly all classes it seemed to come and go. The 1/10th scales were having fits - we'd go lose then have plenty of traction and then go loose again. Wierd.

I put newer fronts on and didn't cut them down. I wanted to have more front in case the traction went to pot again. Rears were good sized as well - I wanted the sidewall. Not sure if it helped, but it felt good.

I did a lot of four-wheel drifting around the sweepers - which was fun. Running a 10x2 is a blast.

I ended up 2nd by about 10 feet. Third was inches behind me.

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Old 04-24-2005, 04:07 AM   #12765
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Switch Blade;
My assumption would be this (based on my 1:10th experience);
If you mount your servo more forward this will affect the ackerman, whilst the vertical postion would affect bump steer.
The idea would be is to get the steering links level, as this eliminates bump steer.
With regard to forward sweep, a little forward is good, as when the car is on full lock, the outer link will be straight. I'm not compeletely sure how it affects the ackeman (always get a little confused with that one)... someone else ahould be able to tell you.

HiH
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