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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-22-2005, 06:53 AM   #12736
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My car has almost zero bump steer. It's just a matter or getting the angles right. No different than when the servo is on a mount. You still have to have the links at the right angle.

Maybe CRC or at least their drivers have found through their testing that their chassis works better with the servo angled. I just perfer the way my car handles flat.

Last edited by JohnB; 04-22-2005 at 07:00 AM.
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Old 04-22-2005, 07:04 AM   #12737
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Jag...
JohnB is correct, you can eliminate the bump stear with the servo flat as well as mounted at an angle. The rule of thumb is when you run on a smooth track run the servo flat, if the track is bumpy run it on the angle mounts. Running the servo flat will give more stearing. the angled mounts make it easier to drive. You'll see an acerman change as well as weight position change as well as bump stear change when you try it flat vs. at an angle.
Wayne
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Old 04-22-2005, 07:20 AM   #12738
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Quote:
Originally posted by sg1
Jag...
JohnB is correct, you can eliminate the bump stear with the servo flat as well as mounted at an angle. The rule of thumb is when you run on a smooth track run the servo flat, if the track is bumpy run it on the angle mounts. Running the servo flat will give more stearing. the angled mounts make it easier to drive. You'll see an acerman change as well as weight position change as well as bump stear change when you try it flat vs. at an angle.
Wayne
I run on asphalt but the tracks are pretty smooth so what would you recommend? I would hate to pull my servo off and put it on mounts only to find that the handling got worse. I have no experience with 1/12 so I have no basis of comparison. I hope to learn from other peoples experience.
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Old 04-22-2005, 08:11 AM   #12739
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Here is pic of my car. I don't know much about it so if you see something please let me know.
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Old 04-22-2005, 08:25 AM   #12740
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Jag...
I never could drive a non t-bar car, So I'll just talk about the front....lol....

1) make sure the aluminum tube across the uprights isn't twisting the front of the chassis...
2) I would try to make the stearing turnbuckles parallel to the chassis and the mount at the servo saver about 1/16" farther forward then the mount at the stearing blocks.
3) make sure the castor looks about equal.. From the rear I usually run the teflon washers in the back on the left side and split on the right side. The lower left a-arm is sometimes off (swept back).
4) keep an eye on the springs, they collapse easily. Add a shim if needed.
5) caliper your turnbuckles and get them the same length..

Start with that.... That should get you close and make it easy to drive.

Wayne
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Old 04-22-2005, 08:43 AM   #12741
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Quote:
Originally posted by sg1
Jag...
I never could drive a non t-bar car, So I'll just talk about the front....lol....

1) make sure the aluminum tube across the uprights isn't twisting the front of the chassis...
2) I would try to make the stearing turnbuckles parallel to the chassis and the mount at the servo saver about 1/16" farther forward then the mount at the stearing blocks.
3) make sure the castor looks about equal.. From the rear I usually run the teflon washers in the back on the left side and split on the right side. The lower left a-arm is sometimes off (swept back).
4) keep an eye on the springs, they collapse easily. Add a shim if needed.
5) caliper your turnbuckles and get them the same length..

Start with that.... That should get you close and make it easy to drive.

Wayne
The front of the chassis lays flat so I guess the tube is alright.

I'm not sure exactly what you mean in #2. Is the servo saver supposed to be 1/16 further forward (toward the front of the car) than where the turnbuckles mount to the blocks? See attached picture.

I get the rest of it.

Thanks for the help.
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Old 04-22-2005, 02:47 PM   #12742
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Hammer

Quote:
Originally posted by jag
Why wouldnt you want to use tape, it holds the best. I dont think its possible for one to make mount for the hara chassis since it is soo narrow. There is no way to but a screw anywhere on the side. Unless you make it like the T force kind, but even then it still seems pretty impossible.
Tape is a pain in the butt. I like the rubber band on my CRC but I would prefer a CF brace that was screwed down. I saw one on a car I was racing against and I think that's the ticket.

I think velcro would be too thick if you wrapped it around the chassis... scrape the ground. [/B][/QUOTE]

Being that the batteries weigh as much as they do, a carbon brace spanning the cells is not the best idea in the world. The best "non-tape" hold down system I've seen so far is on the T-fource. It's much less likely to tweak the chassis after a big hit, than a brace that's tied to both sides of the chassis.
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Old 04-22-2005, 02:52 PM   #12743
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i think if you had two mounts on either side of the chassi raised up just enough so that velcro wouldnt scrap the ground, or even two "U" brakets on either side of the chassis, velcro would be awesome
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Old 04-22-2005, 02:59 PM   #12744
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Default servo position

Jag,
From that view it looks good. The other pic looked like the servo needed to be moved forward. All I ways attempting to say was that the stearing turnbuckle should be sweeping back about 1/16". Just the way you have it


Ian...
I love tape

Wayne
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Old 04-22-2005, 03:13 PM   #12745
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Default Re: Shoegoo Servo Flat

Hi!
What kinda' chassis is that? BMI ?
Quote:
Originally posted by JohnB
I've been wanting to do this but just haven't glued a servo down lately. Now when someone need to know how, just refer them to page 425!

1st - I didn't take a picture of this part, but mount the front a-arms, put the servo saver on with the ball studs and make sure you know exactly where you want it. Refer to the last picture for and you can see how I like to set mine. Make a couple small marks for reference marks to measure from.

2nd - Clean the chassis and bottom of servo. I wipe it down with rubbing alcohol to make sure there is no oil residue.

3rd - Measure and mark the center line of the chassis and where the back of the servo will be.
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Old 04-22-2005, 03:17 PM   #12746
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Yes sir. That is a BMI chassis.
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Old 04-22-2005, 06:17 PM   #12747
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Default Foams

What is your favorite brand of foam tires for outdoor asphalt?

Who makes those cool black wheels?
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Old 04-22-2005, 06:23 PM   #12748
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Quote:
Here's the set up I used on my YRX12-WE for medium bite asphalt:
I didnt get a chance to say thanks.

Thanks odpurple.
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Old 04-22-2005, 07:49 PM   #12749
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Right, I've mounted my servo flat on the chassis now. Seems much better for eliminating bump steer now.... although I hate using tape to secure a servo, the tamiya stuff I've been using to secure electrics in my car is really good. Holds the servo well, so fingers crossed it will work ok.
I would post some pics.... but the sever for my website seems to be screwing up.. hmmm
I'll be giving the car it's madien outing in my hands tomorrow... looking forward to it.
Later
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Old 04-22-2005, 08:40 PM   #12750
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try using shoo goo to hold ur servo down instead of tape. mine held up very well.
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