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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!


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Old 08-12-2002, 06:41 PM   #1261
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Small problem,

Raced the 12L3 the other day with decent success for a 1st timer. But about half way thru the heat, the car developed a push. I have basically the stock set-up, with 2.5mm height, 1deg camber, frt-purp., rr-grey. The car is razor sharp at start, but steering slowly goes away as race progresses. Using Trinity Zip for traction compound, applying it on half the front, and completely on the rear. I think that's all.

Any ideas?


Also, looking for a 100t, 64p spur gear. Is there a paticular kind that I should be looking for?


Last edited by Stika525; 08-12-2002 at 06:44 PM.
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Old 08-12-2002, 09:19 PM   #1262
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stika, how long are you soaking your tires in traction compound, because it almots sounds like you just aren't soaking them long enough, especially if you are running Jaco tires, they seem to take a little bit longer to soak up the compound than the TRC tires.

try the trinity spur gears, they have worked well for me
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Old 08-13-2002, 12:53 AM   #1263
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Hey guys.
Trips try any of the following Hobby Shops:
1. RC Madnes at 8607416501
2. The Track at 3014179630
3. R&L Raceway at 6163233686
4. Aero-Tech Hobbies at 3304991300
5. G+C Hobbies at 5615473812
6. The Mushroom Bowl at 6104441850
These are all "Trinity Spotlight Dealers" and one of them should have the part for you. If not them then call Wind Tunnel Racing at 8775692403 and he should be able to get you one. Windtunnel makes a graphite kit of spare parts for the 12L3 and is in the process of doing one for our Trinity 02 car.

Petenis- Hey guy how's the drag car and your brother doing? First make sure the pivot ball setup is properly spaced up from the chassis plate and every thing is tight (I think there are two metal cone like washers per side plus some washers per the instructions).

Now make sure the pivot ball caps are snugly secure (check the pivot cap screws), you should be able to move the pivot ball freely without much free play. Now make sure that the screw that goes through the pivot ball comes all of the way up and through the pivot ball and that you have enough thread to put a front wheel nut on top to secure it (4-40).

Next take the rear axle, center shock and front tires off of your car. Lay the car on a flat surface and loosen the two 4-40 nuts (one on each side of the footbal) on the mini graphite plate. Press down on the chassis plate and rear pod to make sure everything is square and then tighten the two 4-40 nuts. You should now have a non binding rear suspension. The links limit the travel so that you shouldn't bottom out. With the Knife you should check the football/link alignment in this manner and reset it after every race day or whenever the car feels weird.

Stevie- It sounds like your car is "tweaked" which means that it turns more one way than the other. It would seem that either your tweak screws are touching the T-bar or that they are in but only come into contact with the t-bar when the pod is moved some. These would readily explain your problem and you can do the following tweak check method if either of these issues exist.

Take an X-Acto blade and on a flat table find the centerline of the car and at the back pod lower plate lift the car with the X-acto. If one side raises before the other than you have a tweak problem and you must tighten one of the screws on the t-bar (whichever side it is, play with it) to get both rear tires to lift at the same time.

Stika- I think Avink1 is steering you right. You should be letting the Zip Free sit on your tires for at least 20min (at club races) before you wipe it off with a rag. It also sounds like you may not be getting all of the Zip wiped off before you start your race and this could cause your tires to be a little "wet" which would sharpen handling. Once the tires "dried" off from then you would see what the real traction is like. If after you try the above you still don't have the steering you need but you notice that the car is more "tame" when you start the race then try treating 3/4 of the fronts working from the inside towards the outside of the tire. Paragon Ground Effects is probably the best stuff you can use and a non-wintergreen alternative to Zip is Racer's Choice TQ 8+ (red label). Zip is good stuff I hear so don't throw it away, just saying that you may want to try one of these other two with the same procedures and compare performance and then go from there.
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Old 08-13-2002, 02:10 AM   #1264
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Sounds good. I'll give it a try and let you know. Thanks guys.
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Old 08-13-2002, 06:47 AM   #1265
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thanks for the leads, I'll be making some calls today!

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Old 08-13-2002, 07:55 AM   #1266
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I contacted everyone on the list except the mushroom bowl and windtunnel, and so far I'm batting .000.

I'll keep trying the mushroom bowl and windtunnel today, but for now I've scanned the picture of the part in the manual and enlarged it to actual size in Photoshop, I'll see if I can't fabricate a piece from graphite or fiberglass today at work to hold me over until I can get the real one.

Thanks for the help dave...

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Old 08-13-2002, 10:45 AM   #1267
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!!!Thanks once again darnold,for the advice!!!!
(ill check the tweak in a bit)...

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Old 08-13-2002, 03:55 PM   #1268
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I can see that Dave "Tigger" Arnold has yet to tell everyone about this weekends golf outing Lets see he got beat by Paul Lemuiex on Golden Tee and on the real chipping contest outside. Maybe it was the bad lie that Paul gave him or was it the hurt Sholder??????? Who knows but Tigger let us all down. Then at the resturant he was soo mad he stomped on some mayo packets and covered the place in the stuff....boy you guys better watch out for his temper.

Anyway Dave e-mail me and I will send you that Excel file that I have at Kane@nightingale.com
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Old 08-13-2002, 04:07 PM   #1269
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None of the shops you listed had the part, which isn't really surprising since it's probably not something that'll ever break.

I did get lucky today, I found an old Associated 12L chassis at work, and there's a big enough section of blank graphite in the middle of it that I can cut out and fabricate my own to use until I get the real one from Trinity. It'll probably be on the ugly side, but it should work for a temporary fix.

Thanks for the help, I really appreciate it.

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Old 08-13-2002, 10:25 PM   #1270
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Has anybody tried attaching the rear of the T-plate using the center hole at the rear pod on a 12L3? What were the results?

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Old 08-13-2002, 11:47 PM   #1271
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I haven't done it with my 12L3, but I know what it does with the 10L2 - it stiffens up the rear end and doesn't allow it to flex as much, either fore and aft or side to side.

When we ran 6 cell mod (10x2 usually) we used that screw because the motors were overpowering the t-bar. . .but with stock it just makes it too stiff.
RC10L2.5W - RC12.4 - RCNTC3(bmi) - TC4 (modded) - B44.2 - plus rent-a-rides! :D
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Old 08-14-2002, 12:22 AM   #1272
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What performance gain or loss did you get?
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Old 08-14-2002, 10:36 AM   #1273
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The center screw in the T-bar on an AE car has only a nominal affect on the side-to-side motion of the T-bar and thus only a nominal effect on the side bite of the car. What it does is to remove some forward bite from the rear of the car thus loosening the car up under acceleration.

Quick summary: more power-on steering.

Last edited by MarkA; 08-14-2002 at 10:56 AM.
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Old 08-14-2002, 07:29 PM   #1274
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Just what I was lookin' for. Thanks Mark!
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Old 08-15-2002, 01:12 AM   #1275
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Kev- A last it is true.... Paul beat me in the chipping contest with my own club. Oh the hoorrrrorrrr... LOL! You've got mail bro. BTW, who put the mayo in my path, c'mon I know one of you set me up.LOL! Your car looked really good Sunday and you knnnoooowww you're holding back secret info to Rob. LOL!
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