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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-20-2005, 09:49 PM   #12721
PMK
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On the old style front end, couldn't you also run a tie brace with a turnbucle and loosen the front end mont screws, dial in some camber and then evenly tighten the screws again. I know crude but doable. I thought the center mount hole was designed to do this.

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Old 04-20-2005, 09:59 PM   #12722
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Default Rear Supension Limiters

For those using a T plate with discs like an L4 or it's many derivitives, anyone here use the chassis roll travel limiters? These are basically a funny shaped plastic washer that is nested over the damper post and lies between the damper discs. It's outside shape matches the top pod plate cutout for the damper post while the inside shape is modified to limit chassis roll.

Any tips from those that run them. Typically under what conditions, and can the chassis become upset if the side roll bottoms prior th scraping carbon fibre?

Just curious.

PK
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Old 04-20-2005, 10:31 PM   #12723
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PMK,

On my L4s , I just use the one with the larger hole for carpet racing. You might try a run without one and then a run with one to get the feel both ways.

Don't use em at all for asphalt.
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Old 04-21-2005, 06:42 AM   #12724
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Default Re: Rear Supension Limiters

Quote:
Originally posted by PMK
For those using a T plate with discs like an L4 or it's many derivitives, anyone here use the chassis roll travel limiters? These are basically a funny shaped plastic washer that is nested over the damper post and lies between the damper discs. It's outside shape matches the top pod plate cutout for the damper post while the inside shape is modified to limit chassis roll.

Any tips from those that run them. Typically under what conditions, and can the chassis become upset if the side roll bottoms prior th scraping carbon fibre?

Just curious.

PK
i ran one once. it seam to me that it kind of works like a sway bar on a tc. it limits the amount of roll and would break tracktion past that point.
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Old 04-21-2005, 08:30 PM   #12725
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Default Shoegoo Servo Flat

I've been wanting to do this but just haven't glued a servo down lately. Now when someone need to know how, just refer them to page 425!

1st - I didn't take a picture of this part, but mount the front a-arms, put the servo saver on with the ball studs and make sure you know exactly where you want it. Refer to the last picture for and you can see how I like to set mine. Make a couple small marks for reference marks to measure from.

2nd - Clean the chassis and bottom of servo. I wipe it down with rubbing alcohol to make sure there is no oil residue.

3rd - Measure and mark the center line of the chassis and where the back of the servo will be.
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Old 04-21-2005, 08:30 PM   #12726
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4th - Measure the distance from the edge of the servo case to the center of the output shaft on the front of the servo, then mark that same distance on the back of the servo case. This will give you a mark to line up with the chassis marks and you can align for front with the screw sticking out.

*****************
Lost the picture. See last post for picture

Last edited by JohnB; 04-21-2005 at 08:48 PM.
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Old 04-21-2005, 08:32 PM   #12727
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5th - Apply a thin layer of shoegoo to the chassis. I donít know, maybe 1/16Ē inch thick or so and spread it even

6th - Put the clamp on. Tighten it just enough to hold the servo then line up all you marks. Tighten a little more, check it. Over and over again until the clamp in snug and you know everything is straight.6th - Put the clamp on. Tighten it just enough to hold the servo then line up all you marks. Tighten a little more, check it. Over and over again until the clamp in snug and you know everything is straight.
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Old 04-21-2005, 08:33 PM   #12728
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Last - I put a straight edge across the back of the a-arms just to check again that thing is straight and centered.
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Old 04-21-2005, 08:44 PM   #12729
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Finally, when it's all done it looks something like this.
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Old 04-21-2005, 08:47 PM   #12730
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Servo mark
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Old 04-21-2005, 08:48 PM   #12731
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Quote:
Originally posted by JohnB
Finally, when it's all done it looks something like this.
Very nice! So how do you make a transponder holder?
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Old 04-21-2005, 09:12 PM   #12732
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That's just lexan with that graphite sticker stuff. The bare lexan just didn't lock right
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Old 04-21-2005, 09:33 PM   #12733
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i used to glue my servo down to the chassis and have the ball stud all the way at the tip of the servo saver, when i steer all the way, the turnbuckles hit the arm and everytime i hit a curb, it dent the inner front wheels coz the ballcup hits the inner wall of the wheel. i just switched back to mounting the servo with mounts. works very well. no more bent rims
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Old 04-21-2005, 11:18 PM   #12734
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Default Orion SV2 on CRC 6 pack

Hi,

Anyone tried Orion SV2 motor on CRC 6 pack ? The end bell is
hitting the side spring. Any solution ?
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Old 04-22-2005, 06:37 AM   #12735
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Quote:
Originally posted by JohnB
Finally, when it's all done it looks something like this.
What is the difference between mounting the servo flat vs. putting it on the angled mounts? My car came with the servo mounted flat (like you just did) but a guy at CRC told me I should put it on mounts. He said you get too much bump steer with it mounted flat.
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