R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-20-2005, 12:50 PM   #12706
jag
Tech Master
 
jag's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: So. Florida
Posts: 1,168
Default Hammer

Is the battery pack in the Hara Hammer held in with tape?

What kit do you start with if you want to upgrade to the Hammer?
jag is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2005, 12:51 PM   #12707
Tech Elite
 
JDXray's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Long Island, New York
Posts: 2,802
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to JDXray
Default Re: Hammer

Quote:
Originally posted by jag
Is the battery pack in the Hara Hammer held in with tape?

What kit do you start with if you want to upgrade to the Hammer?
Ya you can strap in your batts with tape.
JDXray is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2005, 12:51 PM   #12708
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Oslo, Norway
Posts: 237
Default

Yes it is

Alf :-)
alf.skaar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2005, 01:35 PM   #12709
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default Re: Hammer

Quote:
Originally posted by jag
What kit do you start with if you want to upgrade to the Hammer?
Associated 12L3 or L4, or Yokomo YRX12, or you could even use a Kawada.
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2005, 01:38 PM   #12710
Tech Master
 
Soviet's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Littleton, CO - USA
Posts: 1,712
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Why don't they just sell the Hammer as a stand alone kit?!?!? I've never understood why anyone would want to buy say a new L4 and THEN pop ANOTHER $150 on a "conversion" kit that you can't buy replacement parts for...

It seems silly to me.
__________________
"You don't get hurt racing little cars..."

-Me
Soviet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2005, 01:42 PM   #12711
Tech Elite
 
theisgroup's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,191
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

some companies can not purchase the front end set from Assoc. and purchasing the part as part would rack up the price to make a conversion not financially sound. also the axle parts are the same problem.
__________________
yang lai

Team Tamale | Team Tekin | RCAmerica | Speedmerchant | Speedzone RC | EA Motorsports | Ko Propo USA | eXpress Motorsports | Parma/PSE
theisgroup is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2005, 01:48 PM   #12712
jag
Tech Master
 
jag's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: So. Florida
Posts: 1,168
Default Re: Re: Hammer

Quote:
Originally posted by JDXray
Ya you can strap in your batts with tape.
Yeah but I don't want to use tape. Who makes a battery mount?
jag is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2005, 02:23 PM   #12713
Tech Elite
 
JDXray's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Long Island, New York
Posts: 2,802
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to JDXray
Default Re: Re: Re: Hammer

Quote:
Originally posted by Soviet
Why don't they just sell the Hammer as a stand alone kit?!?!? I've never understood why anyone would want to buy say a new L4 and THEN pop ANOTHER $150 on a "conversion" kit that you can't buy replacement parts for...

It seems silly to me.
Not really true, you can buy the Oldschool frontend for like 20-30 and then just get the rear bulkheads and a screw kit.


Quote:
Originally posted by jag
Yeah but I don't want to use tape. Who makes a battery mount?
Why wouldnt you want to use tape, it holds the best. I dont think its possible for one to make mount for the hara chassis since it is soo narrow. There is no way to but a screw anywhere on the side. Unless you make it like the T force kind, but even then it still seems pretty impossible.
JDXray is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2005, 02:38 PM   #12714
Tech Fanatic
 
primusblowsgoat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Pingree Grove, IL
Posts: 987
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to primusblowsgoat Send a message via Yahoo to primusblowsgoat
Default

rig up some velcro
__________________
Schumacher Racing
Schumacher Cat SX2
Schumacher Cougar SV
primusblowsgoat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2005, 03:03 PM   #12715
jag
Tech Master
 
jag's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: So. Florida
Posts: 1,168
Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Hammer

Why wouldnt you want to use tape, it holds the best. I dont think its possible for one to make mount for the hara chassis since it is soo narrow. There is no way to but a screw anywhere on the side. Unless you make it like the T force kind, but even then it still seems pretty impossible. [/B][/QUOTE]

Tape is a pain in the butt. I like the rubber band on my CRC but I would prefer a CF brace that was screwed down. I saw one on a car I was racing against and I think that's the ticket.

I think velcro would be too thick if you wrapped it around the chassis... scrape the ground.
jag is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2005, 03:12 PM   #12716
Tech Master
 
Switch Blade's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: The British Invasion
Posts: 1,078
Send a message via AIM to Switch Blade
Default

I have a set of the "old school" front end for my l3 and was just wonder how you set camber and caster. I dont see how you would do this, unless I am missing somthing. Are there different blocks for different settings?
Thanks
Switch Blade is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2005, 03:17 PM   #12717
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: New York
Posts: 319
Send a message via AIM to jumbo360
Default

actually there are blocks that are slanted so you get your camber but I think zero with the old school is fine and 10 with the new associated one.
jumbo360 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2005, 03:18 PM   #12718
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Soviet
Why don't they just sell the Hammer as a stand alone kit?!?!? I've never understood why anyone would want to buy say a new L4 and THEN pop ANOTHER $150 on a "conversion" kit that you can't buy replacement parts for...

It seems silly to me.
The idea of a conversion kit, it seems to me, is for people who already have a car and want to move onto something else.
Or, as in my case, you can build a car with the kit and spare parts you have already.
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2005, 03:22 PM   #12719
Tech Elite
 
JDXray's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Long Island, New York
Posts: 2,802
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to JDXray
Default

OD ygpm
JDXray is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2005, 03:23 PM   #12720
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Switch Blade
I have a set of the "old school" front end for my l3 and was just wonder how you set camber and caster. I dont see how you would do this, unless I am missing somthing. Are there different blocks for different settings?
Thanks
There are 0 and 2 degree shims for ride height and castor adjustment (use two 2 deg shims for 4 deg). For camber adjustments you use header card or shim stock under the inside or outside of the block.
The 0, 5 and 10 degree blocks on the new style front end change the amount of reactive caster, the basic caster setting is made with the white hinge pin shims.
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 3 (0 members and 3 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 09:29 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0