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  • Re: Re: 6 cells vs 4 cells
    Quote:
    Originally posted by fast-ho-cars
    Associated may still sell a tape of the 1994 IFMAR onroad worlds in Holland or France . the 1/12 was run indoor on carpet with 6-cells (1700 cells). talk about FAST! most indoor carpet racing even back then was usually done with 4-cells, don't know why they ran 6 at that worlds?
    Back in '94, 4 cell 1/12 scale racing was rare outside the U.S. If we're talking about the same race, it was here in the U.S. (Detroit, if I recall) but being a world championship it ran under IFMAR rules.

    edit: I just looked at the tape, and fast-ho-cars was right, the '94 race was from Europe, I was thinking of the '92 race in Detroit. Still, the '94 race was pretty impressive... I'll try to digitize some of it in the next few days.
  • Re: Re: Re: 6 cells vs 4 cells
    Quote:
    Originally posted by Trips
    Back in '94, 4 cell 1/12 scale racing was rare outside the U.S. If we're talking about the same race, it was here in the U.S. (Detroit, if I recall) but being a world championship it ran under IFMAR rules.

    If I can find the tape I'll digitize some of it and post it here... it's really amazing.
    yep it was 1994, the IFMAR 1/12th world Championship was in europe that year, indoors on carpet, AE has it on tape. don't know if they still sell it.

    David Sphashett beat Masami with his Corally.

    i watched this tape 3 months ago at a friends house, what caught my eye was when the camara went thru the pits and showed the 1/12 cars with 6-cells
  • Yup, I put an edit in my post above... the race I was thinking of was '92 in Detroit, Masami and Neisinger battling the whole 8 in that one. I still have the '94 tape here, I don't for the life of me know what happened to my '92 tape.
  • Quote:
    Originally posted by fast-ho-cars
    i noticed that the front end isn't AE, but a similiar clone. looks like one of a Kawada car? anyone know?
    Yes, that's from Kawada, also the rear end is made by them.
  • thats the third version of the AH car i've seen. i thought the Kawada parts/axles were all metric?

    the kit thats available in the US has all 4 cells side by side.

    heres a picture of another AH version posted by someone else awhile back. there are more cut outs in the frame and the cells are split in a 2/2 config like a t-bar car.


  • Quote:
    soooo, i am VERY interested in getting into 12th scale with a few of my friends. we are looking maily at associated 12l's but this calandra movement seems very tempting. . . i heard that calandra uses mainly associated parts so the common pieces are easy to replace?
    Welcome to 1/12th scale.. it's a blast and extremely challenging.

    You can't go wrong with the CRC car line. They have been great with parts support, race support and advise. The cars are dialed and have all the goodies in the box.
  • Re: Re: Hara Hammer setup
    Quote:
    Originally posted by JDXray
    Alittle different then trips, but around the same

    Jaco/TRC/Parma Purple Fronts
    42mm tire
    3.0 ride height
    Associated L4 front end
    toe in .5*
    camber- 1*
    .20 spring

    Center Spring- Hara spring set (hardest one of them)
    30wT oil
    Stock Hara side springs
    Tweak screws- about half way down but its different for others

    Jaco/TRC/Parma Grey Rears
    44mm tire size
    3.5-4.0 ride height (sometimes 3.0 all around)
    20wt oil on damper disk
    96 spur
    1mm sag in pod
    Parma Speed 8 body

    Carpet stock motor*

    hope it helps

    Jon





    Jon, thanks for the setup. I am trying to get ready for the US Pancar Championships in May here in San Antonio. I have tried Hara's setup and the car felt it had to much steering. My car olny gets to get run on asphalt. Again thank you all for the help.

    Carlos Garcia
  • Carlos,

    For asphalt I'd suggest Pink rear tires instead of Greys, that'll get you some more bite in the back.

    Also, you might go to the middle or even softest of the three shock springs that came with the kit.

    On the carpet, we're running the tweak plate down lower than you'd probably want for asphalt. JD says he's runing his about halfway down, mine is not that low, but it is a few turns down from the top. Try running yours higher for less roll stifness in the rear.
  • Quote:
    Originally posted by Trips
    Carlos,

    For asphalt I'd suggest Pink rear tires instead of Greys, that'll get you some more bite in the back.

    Also, you might go to the middle or even softest of the three shock springs that came with the kit.

    On the carpet, we're running the tweak plate down lower than you'd probably want for asphalt. JD says he's runing his about halfway down, mine is not that low, but it is a few turns down from the top. Try running yours higher for less roll stifness in the rear.
    Good points Dave.

    going to softer tires is one of the key mistakes, i am using the purple/grey for stock carpet sometimes 19t but even then with that speed the car tends to push.

    As for tweak screws i have seen pics of hara running NO TWEAK SCREWS, ill try and find a pic for ya on that one.

    Again, i dont know to much about asphalt.
  • quick question;
    What socket sets and sizes do you use for your 12ths?

    I'm a little confused with the imperial numbers (always used metric before), and I'm trying to figure out if the stuff i'm using is correct.

    For example, for the main screws on my car (CRC 3.2) I'm using a 1.5mm hex driver, should I be using a .063 driver instead?
    I've got a 0.050 driver now, so thats not a problem, I just don't want to be stripping any of the alloy screws by using slightly the wrong size driver.

    Also, what about for the nylock nuts? is it a 4.5mm driver, or a 1/4" i need.....

    Anyway, as for a quick update... recieved all my parts for the car today (well pleased, I only ordered them yesterday morning).... so I now have a complete new screw set, so all red screws are now being used (I've got to dremmel 5 out, but i'm not doing it today). Also got some JACO purple fronts and grey rears, new diff balls (ceramics!) and all the parts to get the car to a good operating level.

    All i need now is some proper tools.... just to put in the pitbox.

    Thanks in advance
    Ed
  • Quote:
    Originally posted by TryHard
    quick question;
    What socket sets and sizes do you use for your 12ths?

    I'm a little confused with the imperial numbers (always used metric before), and I'm trying to figure out if the stuff i'm using is correct.

    For example, for the main screws on my car (CRC 3.2) I'm using a 1.5mm hex driver, should I be using a .063 driver instead?
    I've got a 0.050 driver now, so thats not a problem, I just don't want to be stripping any of the alloy screws by using slightly the wrong size driver.

    Also, what about for the nylock nuts? is it a 4.5mm driver, or a 1/4" i need.....

    Anyway, as for a quick update... recieved all my parts for the car today (well pleased, I only ordered them yesterday morning).... so I now have a complete new screw set, so all red screws are now being used (I've got to dremmel 5 out, but i'm not doing it today). Also got some JACO purple fronts and grey rears, new diff balls (ceramics!) and all the parts to get the car to a good operating level.

    All i need now is some proper tools.... just to put in the pitbox.

    Thanks in advance
    Ed
    I got a set of standard OFNA hex wrenches and nut drivers and they work great. I don't know exactly what sizes they are but it's fractions not mm. They come in sets of 4 and they are fairly inexpensive. If you have money to burn I would get a set of Hudy wrenches.
  • wrench sizes
    Use an .063 driver on the 4/40 screws-1.5 is a little smaller so you run the risk of stripping the heads with the 1.5 (especially on those aluminum screws).
    The aluminum mini locknuts are 3/16 (the ones on the front axle). The regular size locknut is 1/4", but I don't think the CRC car comes with any of those.
    Also, I wouldn't recommend using aluminum screws on the link balls, they break too easily there.
  • Try Hard,

    The 4-40 flat head screws and button head screws (most of the chassis screws that is) are a 1/16" (.063) allen.

    The cap head 4-40's (rear wheel bolts) take a 3/32" (.093) allen wrench.

    The 4-40 set screws need the .050, and 2-56 screws usually take the .050 as well.

    Pinions typically use a 5-40 set screw these days, it takes the 1/16" (.063) wrench, but some older pinions have 4-40 setscrews and will need the .050.
  • cheers guys,
    I'll be investing in them straight away.

    Looks like i need drivers in .063 & .093, and a 3/16 wrench.

    Thanks for the quick replies... means i can get on and buy them, and fingers crossed they'll arrive before the weekend.

    Later
    Ed
  • pm
    Crasyby you've been pm'ed

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