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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-19-2005, 09:35 PM   #12691
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Default Re: Re: 6 cells vs 4 cells

Quote:
Originally posted by fast-ho-cars
Associated may still sell a tape of the 1994 IFMAR onroad worlds in Holland or France . the 1/12 was run indoor on carpet with 6-cells (1700 cells). talk about FAST! most indoor carpet racing even back then was usually done with 4-cells, don't know why they ran 6 at that worlds?
Back in '94, 4 cell 1/12 scale racing was rare outside the U.S. If we're talking about the same race, it was here in the U.S. (Detroit, if I recall) but being a world championship it ran under IFMAR rules.

edit: I just looked at the tape, and fast-ho-cars was right, the '94 race was from Europe, I was thinking of the '92 race in Detroit. Still, the '94 race was pretty impressive... I'll try to digitize some of it in the next few days.
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Last edited by Trips; 04-19-2005 at 09:58 PM.
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Old 04-19-2005, 09:55 PM   #12692
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Default Re: Re: Re: 6 cells vs 4 cells

Quote:
Originally posted by Trips
Back in '94, 4 cell 1/12 scale racing was rare outside the U.S. If we're talking about the same race, it was here in the U.S. (Detroit, if I recall) but being a world championship it ran under IFMAR rules.

If I can find the tape I'll digitize some of it and post it here... it's really amazing.
yep it was 1994, the IFMAR 1/12th world Championship was in europe that year, indoors on carpet, AE has it on tape. don't know if they still sell it.

David Sphashett beat Masami with his Corally.

i watched this tape 3 months ago at a friends house, what caught my eye was when the camara went thru the pits and showed the 1/12 cars with 6-cells
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Old 04-19-2005, 10:00 PM   #12693
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Yup, I put an edit in my post above... the race I was thinking of was '92 in Detroit, Masami and Neisinger battling the whole 8 in that one. I still have the '94 tape here, I don't for the life of me know what happened to my '92 tape.
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Old 04-19-2005, 11:26 PM   #12694
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Quote:
Originally posted by fast-ho-cars
i noticed that the front end isn't AE, but a similiar clone. looks like one of a Kawada car? anyone know?
Yes, that's from Kawada, also the rear end is made by them.
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Old 04-19-2005, 11:38 PM   #12695
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thats the third version of the AH car i've seen. i thought the Kawada parts/axles were all metric?

the kit thats available in the US has all 4 cells side by side.

heres a picture of another AH version posted by someone else awhile back. there are more cut outs in the frame and the cells are split in a 2/2 config like a t-bar car.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg ah hammer and yok unknown versions.jpg (144.7 KB, 137 views)
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Old 04-19-2005, 11:45 PM   #12696
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Quote:
soooo, i am VERY interested in getting into 12th scale with a few of my friends. we are looking maily at associated 12l's but this calandra movement seems very tempting. . . i heard that calandra uses mainly associated parts so the common pieces are easy to replace?
Welcome to 1/12th scale.. it's a blast and extremely challenging.

You can't go wrong with the CRC car line. They have been great with parts support, race support and advise. The cars are dialed and have all the goodies in the box.
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Old 04-19-2005, 11:54 PM   #12697
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Default Re: Re: Hara Hammer setup

Quote:
Originally posted by JDXray
Alittle different then trips, but around the same

Jaco/TRC/Parma Purple Fronts
42mm tire
3.0 ride height
Associated L4 front end
toe in .5*
camber- 1*
.20 spring

Center Spring- Hara spring set (hardest one of them)
30wT oil
Stock Hara side springs
Tweak screws- about half way down but its different for others

Jaco/TRC/Parma Grey Rears
44mm tire size
3.5-4.0 ride height (sometimes 3.0 all around)
20wt oil on damper disk
96 spur
1mm sag in pod
Parma Speed 8 body

Carpet stock motor*

hope it helps

Jon





Jon, thanks for the setup. I am trying to get ready for the US Pancar Championships in May here in San Antonio. I have tried Hara's setup and the car felt it had to much steering. My car olny gets to get run on asphalt. Again thank you all for the help.

Carlos Garcia
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Old 04-20-2005, 04:24 AM   #12698
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Carlos,

For asphalt I'd suggest Pink rear tires instead of Greys, that'll get you some more bite in the back.

Also, you might go to the middle or even softest of the three shock springs that came with the kit.

On the carpet, we're running the tweak plate down lower than you'd probably want for asphalt. JD says he's runing his about halfway down, mine is not that low, but it is a few turns down from the top. Try running yours higher for less roll stifness in the rear.
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Old 04-20-2005, 05:06 AM   #12699
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Quote:
Originally posted by Trips
Carlos,

For asphalt I'd suggest Pink rear tires instead of Greys, that'll get you some more bite in the back.

Also, you might go to the middle or even softest of the three shock springs that came with the kit.

On the carpet, we're running the tweak plate down lower than you'd probably want for asphalt. JD says he's runing his about halfway down, mine is not that low, but it is a few turns down from the top. Try running yours higher for less roll stifness in the rear.
Good points Dave.

going to softer tires is one of the key mistakes, i am using the purple/grey for stock carpet sometimes 19t but even then with that speed the car tends to push.

As for tweak screws i have seen pics of hara running NO TWEAK SCREWS, ill try and find a pic for ya on that one.

Again, i dont know to much about asphalt.
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Old 04-20-2005, 09:56 AM   #12700
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quick question;
What socket sets and sizes do you use for your 12ths?

I'm a little confused with the imperial numbers (always used metric before), and I'm trying to figure out if the stuff i'm using is correct.

For example, for the main screws on my car (CRC 3.2) I'm using a 1.5mm hex driver, should I be using a .063 driver instead?
I've got a 0.050 driver now, so thats not a problem, I just don't want to be stripping any of the alloy screws by using slightly the wrong size driver.

Also, what about for the nylock nuts? is it a 4.5mm driver, or a 1/4" i need.....

Anyway, as for a quick update... recieved all my parts for the car today (well pleased, I only ordered them yesterday morning).... so I now have a complete new screw set, so all red screws are now being used (I've got to dremmel 5 out, but i'm not doing it today). Also got some JACO purple fronts and grey rears, new diff balls (ceramics!) and all the parts to get the car to a good operating level.

All i need now is some proper tools.... just to put in the pitbox.

Thanks in advance
Ed
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Old 04-20-2005, 10:20 AM   #12701
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Quote:
Originally posted by TryHard
quick question;
What socket sets and sizes do you use for your 12ths?

I'm a little confused with the imperial numbers (always used metric before), and I'm trying to figure out if the stuff i'm using is correct.

For example, for the main screws on my car (CRC 3.2) I'm using a 1.5mm hex driver, should I be using a .063 driver instead?
I've got a 0.050 driver now, so thats not a problem, I just don't want to be stripping any of the alloy screws by using slightly the wrong size driver.

Also, what about for the nylock nuts? is it a 4.5mm driver, or a 1/4" i need.....

Anyway, as for a quick update... recieved all my parts for the car today (well pleased, I only ordered them yesterday morning).... so I now have a complete new screw set, so all red screws are now being used (I've got to dremmel 5 out, but i'm not doing it today). Also got some JACO purple fronts and grey rears, new diff balls (ceramics!) and all the parts to get the car to a good operating level.

All i need now is some proper tools.... just to put in the pitbox.

Thanks in advance
Ed
I got a set of standard OFNA hex wrenches and nut drivers and they work great. I don't know exactly what sizes they are but it's fractions not mm. They come in sets of 4 and they are fairly inexpensive. If you have money to burn I would get a set of Hudy wrenches.
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Old 04-20-2005, 10:27 AM   #12702
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Default wrench sizes

Use an .063 driver on the 4/40 screws-1.5 is a little smaller so you run the risk of stripping the heads with the 1.5 (especially on those aluminum screws).
The aluminum mini locknuts are 3/16 (the ones on the front axle). The regular size locknut is 1/4", but I don't think the CRC car comes with any of those.
Also, I wouldn't recommend using aluminum screws on the link balls, they break too easily there.
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Old 04-20-2005, 10:38 AM   #12703
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Try Hard,

The 4-40 flat head screws and button head screws (most of the chassis screws that is) are a 1/16" (.063) allen.

The cap head 4-40's (rear wheel bolts) take a 3/32" (.093) allen wrench.

The 4-40 set screws need the .050, and 2-56 screws usually take the .050 as well.

Pinions typically use a 5-40 set screw these days, it takes the 1/16" (.063) wrench, but some older pinions have 4-40 setscrews and will need the .050.
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Old 04-20-2005, 10:53 AM   #12704
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cheers guys,
I'll be investing in them straight away.

Looks like i need drivers in .063 & .093, and a 3/16 wrench.

Thanks for the quick replies... means i can get on and buy them, and fingers crossed they'll arrive before the weekend.

Later
Ed
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Old 04-20-2005, 10:53 AM   #12705
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Crasyby you've been pm'ed
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