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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-18-2005, 06:48 PM   #12646
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Well pics will have to wait....

Been running over the car, checking for problems and stuff... I currently have a list that runs into double figures.
To me, it's blatently obvious that this car was very un-loved, and shodily looked after. For example, take the rear diff.

Now by the looks of it, the previous owner has lost the bevel washer that are ment to apply spring pressure to the diff.... so what do i find? a 0.5mm axle spacer, with the nylock nut tightened up hard, and a very stiff and course diff action. And with what looks like no diff greese used either, the balls have flat spoted, not helped by being 2 balls missing too.... kinda says it all really.

In some ways I'm dissapointed, other annoyed, mainly as this wasn't how I expected the car to arrive (haven't left ebay feedback yet, but i doubt it'll be positive). Still at least it gives me something to work on, and I know I'll get it to a better standard quite easily.... it's just gonna cost more money

Anyone have any opinions on the block front end versus the AE/CRC front end? Personally, it doesn't look to have the adjustment of the AE front end, but I'm going to try it anyway. I can always get hold of a complete CRC front end anyway... just more cost (next month perhaps... )

Later
Ed
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Old 04-18-2005, 07:02 PM   #12647
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When you say the block front end, are you referring to the one in this picture? If so, I prefer it to the newer front ends. I couldn't say one is actually better than the other, but I get more consistent runs with the old skool front end.

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Old 04-18-2005, 09:08 PM   #12648
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Quote:
Originally posted by Trips
When you say the block front end, are you referring to the one in this picture? If so, I prefer it to the newer front ends. I couldn't say one is actually better than the other, but I get more consistent runs with the old skool front end.

trips that car look VREY familiar.....
is this Dave's Car? I could swear i saw that car last sunday.
GM speedo & Yellow IRS Diff ..?
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Old 04-18-2005, 09:26 PM   #12649
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I wanted to give all of you a heads up and possibly get some feedback on our forthcoming Hyperform12 12th scale. It will be initially offered as a conversion but we should have a complete kit available by the end of the summer. All pieces will be cut from 2.5mm quasi-isotropic carbon fiber plate. This is four directional graphite and should prove to be the stiffest available. The kit will utilize damper tubes for dampening and the area outlined in green will be routed 1mm deep. This will allow for a lower rear roll center and cg. The chassis has the cells mounted as close as possible to the centerline without interfering with t-bar functionality and the chassis is also as narrow as possible for minimal rub. The front overhang is also shorter then most cars on the market to minimize rub. Cell position is adjustable of course.
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Old 04-19-2005, 02:46 AM   #12650
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Trips:
Yeah thats the front end I have. I'll give it a try before I consider changing over to the other type.
One question though, is laying down the servo flat on the chassis the best way to have it with that type? I've mounted mine on the servo mounts, and the links seem a little too angled.

Regards
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Old 04-19-2005, 04:31 AM   #12651
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Ed,

The old front end works best with the servo down flat and the tie rods up top. The newer strut front end likes the servo angled up with the tie rods down low.

Drew,

Yes, Dave here... NICE racing with you on Sunday...
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Old 04-19-2005, 04:55 AM   #12652
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Quote:
Originally posted by Trips
Ed,

The old front end works best with the servo down flat and the tie rods up top. The newer strut front end likes the servo angled up with the tie rods down low.

Drew,

Yes, Dave here... NICE racing with you on Sunday...
Is it bad that i run my servo flat with the new strut front end? seems to work for me.
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Old 04-19-2005, 07:33 AM   #12653
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It's not necessarily bad, but I think you get a bit of bump steer with that coonfiguration.

Drew was running that way and it didn't seem to hurt him...
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Old 04-19-2005, 07:37 AM   #12654
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Quote:
Originally posted by Trips
It's not necessarily bad, but I think you get a bit of bump steer with that coonfiguration.

Drew was running that way and it didn't seem to hurt him...
Okay ill leave it for now, and if i want to try something different ill look toward the oldschool frontend.

Thing i want to try is damper tubes on the hammer kit.
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Old 04-19-2005, 08:07 AM   #12655
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Quote:
Originally posted by JDXray
Thing i want to try is damper tubes on the hammer kit.
Something like this?!
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Old 04-19-2005, 08:12 AM   #12656
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forgot the picture!
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Old 04-19-2005, 08:12 AM   #12657
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Quote:
Originally posted by odpurple
Anything viscous works, the standard being Losi Hydr-Drive fluid. That is no longer available, but i've found that diff lube (for 1/8 OR, I think) works well. I have Mugen diff lube in viscosities from 7,000 to 50,000 and I can get just the dampening I want by mixing them.
How about using grease? Will AE Green Slim or white lithium work? I am running on asphalt.

thanks
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Old 04-19-2005, 08:55 AM   #12658
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tekin
forgot the picture!
I am new to this so be gentle... does that car have a "T" bar as well or do the tubes take the place of the "T" bar? Which front end is that? I don't know the difference between an "oldschool" and a "block" front end. I just got a used CRC Carpet Knife 3.1 and I'm trying to get informed.

thanks
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Old 04-19-2005, 09:10 AM   #12659
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No T-Bar on that car, the ball hinges take the place of the t-bar. The tubes are taking the place of the dampener disks.

The car in the picture has the 12L4 front end, the latest style. The Old Skool (or "block") front end is pictured here:

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Old 04-19-2005, 09:22 AM   #12660
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Quote:
Originally posted by Trips
No T-Bar on that car, the ball hinges take the place of the t-bar. The tubes are taking the place of the dampener disks.

The car in the picture has the 12L4 front end, the latest style. The Old Skool (or "block") front end is pictured here:

Who makes the block front end? Is one better than the other for asphalt? Which rear end is considered better better for asphalt the "T" bar or the ball hinge and tubes or disk?
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