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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-17-2005, 08:05 PM   #12631
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Quote:
Originally posted by odpurple
gee, what tipped you off?
For sure...od is a flower child.
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Old 04-17-2005, 08:35 PM   #12632
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im about to get a spring steel t bar for my t fource and still debating whether to get the medium or medium stiff. im leaning towards the medium stiff coz the t fource dont really rely on the t bars tension because of the side springs. any insights?
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Old 04-17-2005, 08:39 PM   #12633
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Quote:
Originally posted by JRX-S Bill
When ROAR allows 3600/3700/3800/???? battery packs, the receiver packs will likely be passe.
Back in the "good old" days, we raced with GE and Sanyo 1200 cells. When the 1400's came along I heard guys say "no one will ever dump again"

That was a long time ago, and people are still dumping. I don't expect the increase from 3300 to 3800 to change that. We'll just go faster for 7:45 or so.
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Old 04-17-2005, 10:05 PM   #12634
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Default Re: Hara Hammer setup

Quote:
Originally posted by CarlosG.
Hello, I was wondering If anybody has a good setup for the Hara HAmmer 12 for onroad and carpet. I have tried the setup from one website, but I don't know about the items that don't convert to english. Also I can't figure out what HPI J tire compound and Xenon Aqua compounds are.
For carpet:
TRC purple tires 42mm on Old Skool front end, .020 springs, ride height 3.5mm. Toe-in 0 or slightly out. Camber -1/2 degree.

Firmest of the three kit shock springs on the shock, 30 wt. oil, kit stock tweak springs, TRC grey tires 44 mm. A few drops of Losi thin hydradrive fluid on the damper discs. Rear ride height 3.5mm, pod level with chassis at ride height, maybe 1mm of sag in the pod when lifted.

CRC Courage body, or for a little less aggressive steering Parma Speed8.
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Old 04-17-2005, 11:26 PM   #12635
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Thank you Trips for the help on the Hara setup.

CarlosG.
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Old 04-18-2005, 04:37 AM   #12636
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Any time. I think you're really going to like the car.
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Old 04-18-2005, 07:16 AM   #12637
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Default Re: Hara Hammer setup

Quote:
Originally posted by CarlosG.
Hello, I was wondering If anybody has a good setup for the Hara HAmmer 12 for onroad and carpet. I have tried the setup from one website, but I don't know about the items that don't convert to english. Also I can't figure out what HPI J tire compound and Xenon Aqua compounds are.
Alittle different then trips, but around the same

Jaco/TRC/Parma Purple Fronts
42mm tire
3.0 ride height
Associated L4 front end
toe in .5*
camber- 1*
.20 spring

Center Spring- Hara spring set (hardest one of them)
30wT oil
Stock Hara side springs
Tweak screws- about half way down but its different for others

Jaco/TRC/Parma Grey Rears
44mm tire size
3.5-4.0 ride height (sometimes 3.0 all around)
20wt oil on damper disk
96 spur
1mm sag in pod
Parma Speed 8 body

Carpet stock motor*

hope it helps

Jon
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Old 04-18-2005, 08:24 AM   #12638
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Hi Guys, Some Questions for you, just recieved my CRC today, and I have a few questions

1) It has the Block front end. Would I be better getting the std front end instead? whats the difference between them?

2) How do I fill up the micro shock? has anyone got a link or images that could help me in this? I've looked on the calandra site, and can't see anything to help (even the manual doesn't have it in)

regards
Ed
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Old 04-18-2005, 08:47 AM   #12639
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Assembling a micro shock:
click here

(it's a pdf file)
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Old 04-18-2005, 01:24 PM   #12640
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thanks for that Tekin, very helpful... all I need now is a small enough allen key to get the spring holder off....B&Q didn't have one small enough.
What size is it?

To be honest, at the moment, I'm dissapointed with the car. It's quite obvious it hasn't been cared for previously, it's in a real state. Lots of screws have stripped heads, the diff has no spring and 2 balls missing...

Still, I'm gonna put an order into Action model centre tomorrow (UK CRC guys), so hopefully I can sort out some of those problems.
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Old 04-18-2005, 01:50 PM   #12641
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I've got a question about damper tubes.
What kind of "stuff" do you use inside them?
Just wondering...

@ TryHard, looks like it isn't that hard to bring the car back to the top,
replace some screws, rebuild the diff and I think you're pretty much hooked.
In the end 1/12th's aren't the most complicated cars and so they are quite reliable.
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Old 04-18-2005, 02:15 PM   #12642
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yeah.
Actually on damper lube.... I have all the three CRC range. Had an order with tuning springs, and a few spares also arrive today I'd planned ahead a little....

Put the white (medium) in the car for now.... gawd knows what it does though, just following the standard setup given on the CRC site (it says Losi Hydra fluid, I guess the white is similar)

Regards
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Old 04-18-2005, 02:32 PM   #12643
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tekin
I've got a question about damper tubes.
What kind of "stuff" do you use inside them?
Just wondering...
Anything viscous works, the standard being Losi Hydr-Drive fluid. That is no longer available, but i've found that diff lube (for 1/8 OR, I think) works well. I have Mugen diff lube in viscosities from 7,000 to 50,000 and I can get just the dampening I want by mixing them.
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Old 04-18-2005, 03:42 PM   #12644
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Quote:
Originally posted by TryHard
all I need now is a small enough allen key to get the spring holder off....B&Q didn't have one small enough.
What size is it?
If you mean the spring perch on the shock shaft that would be an .050" allen key. Fits 4-40 set screws. Get a good one, the cheap ones break easier than an old lady's hip. I have an integy .050 that's lasted me five seasons and still going strong.
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Old 04-18-2005, 03:46 PM   #12645
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thanks trips, I'll take that on board.

I've almost finished wiring the car up, I'll post some pics in a bit

Ed
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Last edited by TryHard; 04-18-2005 at 06:40 PM.
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