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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!


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Old 08-11-2002, 02:41 PM   #1246
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I got a question, Is the pivot plate on a CRC supposed to be stationary or, is it supposed to float. what is the best way to adjust it?
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Old 08-11-2002, 06:38 PM   #1247
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it should float free. there is an online manual for the car on their site know www.teamcrc.com
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Old 08-11-2002, 08:32 PM   #1248
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Default need help picking a car

Well, I need to grab a new car. The three that I am looking at are Carpet Knife, Six Pack and Rev3. What works best for mod on smooth carpet?
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Old 08-11-2002, 09:55 PM   #1249
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How's it going?? I just decided to get back to 1/12 myself, I think I was getting burned out on touring cars.

I went with the Trinity Switchblade 2002, but most of the guys at South Shore seem to favor the Carpet Knife these days. Warren Weaver has been running one, and Bill Hamlin just switched over.

My instincts tell me to go with a stiff T-bar car over a side link car for a big smooth track, we'll see this week if I'm right or not. Of the three cars you mentioned, I'd probably choose the 6pack and use some of the heavier side springs on it.

Any chance of seeing you race at South Shore, or is there somewhere more local to you that you'll be going?

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Old 08-11-2002, 10:13 PM   #1250
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Small problem,

Raced the 12L3 the other day with decent success for a 1st timer. But about half way thru the heat, the car developed a push. I have basically the stock set-up, with 2.5mm height, 1deg camber, frt-purp., rr-grey. The car is razor sharp at start, but steering slowly goes away as race progresses. Using Trinity Zip for traction compound, applying it on half the front, and completely on the rear. I think that's all.

Any ideas?
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Old 08-11-2002, 11:18 PM   #1251
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Default Reactive Castor -> Antidive?

Do you guys know if for cars e.g. RC12L3 with the 10 degree reactive castor blocks, apart from the reactive castor will this also constitute a form of front anti-dive? Thanks!

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Old 08-12-2002, 05:18 AM   #1252
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i would choose the knife or the rev3 over the 6 pack. mainly because i like a link suspension over a t-bar that the 6 pack uses. also you have to tape your cells in a 6 pack and in the knife you use o-rings.
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Old 08-12-2002, 05:35 AM   #1253
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alvin, I don't think that it would give ant anti-dive or anti squat. If you look at the cars that you'd normally think of having aint-dive/anti-squat, like a touring car or an offroad car, the lower arm is moving and thats where you adjust anti-dive/squat settings. On a 12th scale the lower arm isn't moving at all just the upper arm is moving, so i don't feel that there would be any anti-dive/squat on a 12th scale suspension. All reactive caster blocks do is give you less caster entering the corner and more caster coming out of it, say 2.5-3 going in and maybe 4 coming out of the corner. Thats just my feelings on this, but see what other people have to say.
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Old 08-12-2002, 06:17 AM   #1254
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Default DAVE!!

Hi Dave, thought that was you.

Miller has been talking to me about the six pack. But I don't know what to get. I think the 'new' front end is more complicated then necessary. I have not driven a car without a t-plate. I got out of 1/12 when the first non t-plate cars were coming out. What is the differences in performance?

I will be running this winter at South Shore. Do you know when Sunday racing is to kick into high gear?

Talk to you soon
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Old 08-12-2002, 07:27 AM   #1255
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From my experience, the side link cars are easier to cope with on tight or bumpy tracks (remember Middle Village?) but the Tbar cars seem to suit open smooth tracks better.

I'm not a big fan of the new style Associated front end either, but you could always run the old style front end, they're pretty much interchangeable.

I went with the Switchblade because it looked to be the stiffest chassis of all the current crop of 1/12 cars, and I like the front end better than Associated's. The downside is that it's a bit harder to find Trinity parts in most shops. The car does accept Associated Tbars, which should make things easier.

I don't know exactly when Sunday racing is going to pick up at South Shore, but I'm expecting it to be sometime in September or October hopefully. With my current work situation I can't make it out there most Fridays, so I'm looking forward to the indoor season ramping up.

Hope to see you there...

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Old 08-12-2002, 08:55 AM   #1256
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Raffel- On the car selection everyone has there favorites for different reasons. I have actually seen people be able to tune, maintenance or drive a particular car simply better than another style. So in all fairness all of the cars can win and it may be more of an issue of getting the help you need with a particular car in order to get the best out of it.

As for me I would get the Trinity car like your buddy Trips. I would also venture to say that for 12th mod racing a T-bar car is best overall regardless of track design(tight-open). In fact the tighter the track and the higher the traction the better T-bar cars seem to be and they have distinct advantages in low grip situations.

Link cars seem to have an advantage in stock where you are trying to free the car up due to the limited h.p. However, when you run mod (as I am sure you remember) your ability to put the power down off of the corners and to have max stability is paramount to good times. This is why T-bar cars in mod almost always work well.

With all of this said in my opinion I would choose the Trinity car. I think it has three distinct advantages.

1. The front end is more tuneable regarding Roll Center, Camber Gain, and Reactive Caster.

2. The car is very consistent so that once you find a base setup it seems to stay that way with a minimum of fuss and maintenance. This seems due from items such as the stiffer front suspension, the larger front suspension pivot balls (so they wear less), no "caster blocks" to throw off caster from side to side, thicker chassis (really shines in high grip conditions like big races), stiffer rear pod (helps car to lay the power down and seems to add to directional stability and axle alignment).

3. The car has awesome corner speed. I can actually run through corners now under a set amount of throttle and just steer the car and it doesn't scrub speed. This is incredibly efficient and requires less h.p. for similar lap times it seems. My other cars were much more of a point and shoot type (but this is could be due to me, LOL!).
Now this doesn't mean that a link car can't or doesn't work in mod or that they aren't low in maintenance. Dave Chester kicked butt with his knife in mod I heard and E. Deroseirs kicks butt with his Rev 3 so the definately work. I am just speaking from what appears to be the average case scenario. I have also heard many guys talk about how maintenance free their link cars are.

Hopefully now you see why I said that "everyone has their favorites for different reasons" and what works for one may not work for another. Getting help with build tips, setups, and maintenance tips is critical in any form of motor sports including RC so I would look at that issue first and go from there.
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Old 08-12-2002, 09:42 AM   #1257
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I'm stuck in a bit of an emergency situation, I'm hoping one of the 1/12 scale forum readers may be able to help out...

I bought a Switchblade 2002 last week, and the car is nearly done, but my kit was missing the front suspension brace. It's the graphite plate that sits atop the front arms. Trinity says they may not have one in stock to send me, but I've already missed one weekend of racing and I'd like to get the car out this weekend if possible. I'm hoping someone has a spare to sell, or that someone can direct me to a hobby shop that carries the part so I can order it for shipment. It's part number SB9834.

Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions.

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Old 08-12-2002, 12:04 PM   #1258
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I have a problem with my SP12M,if i drive my car hard, on some of the right hand corners my car would do a 180 degree on it self,and at the start of the night it rolled over on a certain right hand corner,my ride height was around 4mm,has the carpet is a bit bumpy! I know on the Corally you can make the rear harder or softer by using the tweak screws,what would be best?make the back end softer or harder,i tried putting extra damper syrup in the damper for the last race,and didnt drive the car has hard around the corners and all was o.k,is there anything i can do to stop it spinning etc ??
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Old 08-12-2002, 02:17 PM   #1259
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I started running my CRC knife again. I figured out what the problem is but I don't know how to go aout curing it.I'm kind of confused because in one spot of the manual it says that the football is a floating piece to allow the links to be free, but in the steps for intalling the links it says to snug them down tightly which one is it?!?!

Heres what's going on: when I tweak the car to turn equally in both directions, the left side of the rear pod hits and when going areound to the left, the bottom plate hits the ground, making my car loose. so I have to put tweak in it to keep the rear pod from bottoming out. this way the car is almost is drivable, but not at a competitive level since it pushes while turning left. I've tried adjusting the football and if those locknuts are tight, then the pod doesn't move much and the problem is worse. if it is loose then it is still evident but not .5mm off the ground when tight. Im told my a guy on the crc board that the loose plate makes it inconsistent.
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Old 08-12-2002, 06:34 PM   #1260
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Dave, now you have me thinking about the Trinity car. Not much info on the Trinity site about it though. I guess before I get one I will hang out and watch for a bit.

darnold, thanks for the info.
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