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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-12-2005, 12:05 AM   #12541
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My tires were cut to 47/45, but yours should be fine.
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Old 04-12-2005, 12:54 AM   #12542
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That's 45 fronts and 47 rear right?
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Old 04-12-2005, 08:00 AM   #12543
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Quote:
Originally posted by revzalot
That's 45 fronts and 47 rear right?
Hey! This is secret stuff, Rev.

Anyway, Jim can probably drive backwards and beat me. He just doesn't want to have to lap me too much.
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Old 04-12-2005, 08:08 AM   #12544
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Default Re: new to 1:12

Quote:
Originally posted by yellow15
now i know completely nothing about the 1:12 cars.. (only into 1:10 eletric tc before) can someone give me some suggestions on what i should get?

what is a good car for me? I'll only race outdoor. CRC? Yokomo? or what? I saw the CRC car has that no tape battery retention system and since i really hate batttery tape, it's quite attractive to me.

Consider i'm probably going to order the car from oversea website (i'm from new zealand) what else should i order at the same time? tyres? springs? ?? Does it use normal standard servo? and is the spur/pinion gear same as the 1:10 TC?

and what gear ratio/motor combo is good for me? Remember we race 8 mins and this is what our track look like:
-----image clipped-------
(a fast stock 1:10 TC's lap time is about 23-24sec)

I know it is impossible to give me the "best" choice by looking at the photo, but an approx idea would be good starting point for me.

and does the motor last longer on a 1:12 compare to the 1:10 TC?

Thanks a lot
Richard
Howdy Richard,

Okay, these suggestions will be largely based on my personal opinions, but those opinions have been formed from 25 years of 1/12 scale racing, so they should have some merit...
  • Which Chassis?
    I happen to like cars without t-bars. I find them to be more consistent from one run to the next, and less fragile than t-bar cars. I've been a big fan of the Speedmerchant chassis, The new Rev4 would be my first choice as an ideal candidate for asphalt. Some folks will tell you that a link car doesn't work on asphalt as well as a t-bar, but I haven't found that to be the case. My older Rev3 TQ'd the 2003 ROAR nationals on asphalt in the hands of my buddy Wes Griffith. He was beaten in the triple A mains for the championship by a Corally, so there might be another choice to look into... Corally cars are VERY well suited to asphalt racing. I've just started playing with the Hara AH12 "Hammer" chassis, I'm very impressed with it as well, and it should do very well on asphalt too. I particularly like the Hara AH12 and the Speedmerchant Rev4 because they are so narrow... nothing to drag in the corners with these chassis. Of the two, I expect the Rev4 to be a bit more robust, and in 1/12 mod racing that is always a consideration. Note that the Rev4 is available as a complete rolling chassis kit, the Hara AH12 is a conversion that requires you to have an Associated 12L3 or L4 or a Yokomo 1/12 car to complete it.
  • What else to get?
    You'll need a smaller steering servo than a standard size... Two nice choices are the Airtronics 94145Z and the Futaba 9602. In my experience the Airtronics is a bit faster, but the Futaba seems to last longer. You'll want to run 64 pitch gearing most likely, if you're already running 64 pitch in your TC's you should be mostly set. 100 tooth spur is typical on a 1/12 car, for pinions you'll want anything from about 24 to 30 tooth to cover most motors. You probably won't go over 30 with mod motors. For tires, a good starting point would be purple fronts and pink rears. Jaco, CRC, or TRC are all good, but TRC rims will require some shimming at the rear axle to get the car out to the legal width limit, and they'll need flanged bearings in the front wheels. Jaco rims (and CRC)will work right out of the box with the standard bearings and spacing of most 1/12 chassis. I'd keep a supply of .020 and .022 front springs on hand, maybe a few .024 as well. I doubt you'll want to go softer than .0209 on asphalt, and I don't think you'll need to go harder than .022, but having the .024 on hand just in case wouldn't hurt. Front springs are cheap.
  • Motor/Gearing?
    I'd be guessing here, but I'd start with a rollout of 24-25mm and go from there with a 12 turn motor. Running 8 minute races you have to be a bit conservative. Depending on your driving style, you might get away with a lower turn motor, but you'll want to drive lightly on the trigger to make time.
  • Motor Life?
    My motors do seem to last longer in 1/12 cars, I guess the 4 cell packs and lighter car weight are easier on the motor than 6 cells in a heavier chassis. I'd generally run 3 qualifiers then skim the comm and replace the brushes for the mains. If you're going lower than a 12 turn, you may need to do more frequent maintenance.

Hope that's of some use to you...
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Old 04-12-2005, 08:34 AM   #12545
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Quote:
Originally posted by BBSpence
Kimbrough makes the diff covers... http://www.kimbrough-products.com/access.htm
Hey, BBSpence!

I love your avatar! I would venture to guess that not too many would recognize it. It's hard to tell but it even looks like it might have symmetrical combustion chambers which would make it a racing version. Back in the mid 70's to mid 80's I was on a team that had a full factory ride. We won the 1979 B Sedan SCCA championships with a RX-3. That winter Mazada had Huffaker Engineering build us a full tube framed RX-7 which we campaigned in SCCA and the old IMSA racing series for two years. That's how I got into RC cars. One of the guy's on the team brought an Associated 12E to the race one weekend. Between working on the RX-3 and RX-7 we took turns driving the 12E around the pits.

Those where good times.
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Old 04-12-2005, 09:00 AM   #12546
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Default Re: new to 1:12

Quote:
Originally posted by yellow15
hi,
i'm interested in getting a 1:12 and race at my local club. It's an outdoor track and our rules for 1:12 are:

4 cell 3300mah batteries
any motor
8 min race

now i know completely nothing about the 1:12 cars.. (only into 1:10 eletric tc before) can someone give me some suggestions on what i should get?

what is a good car for me? I'll only race outdoor. CRC? Yokomo? or what? I saw the CRC car has that no tape battery retention system and since i really hate batttery tape, it's quite attractive to me.

Consider i'm probably going to order the car from oversea website (i'm from new zealand) what else should i order at the same time? tyres? springs? ?? Does it use normal standard servo? and is the spur/pinion gear same as the 1:10 TC?

and what gear ratio/motor combo is good for me? Remember we race 8 mins and this is what our track look like:

(a fast stock 1:10 TC's lap time is about 23-24sec)

I know it is impossible to give me the "best" choice by looking at the photo, but an approx idea would be good starting point for me.

and does the motor last longer on a 1:12 compare to the 1:10 TC?

Thanks a lot
Richard
Trips was right on with his synopsis!

The only thing I would add might be parts availability in your area. When selecting a car, it is handy if you can get your hands on parts the same day. If you are forced to do everything over the internet it could get frustrating.
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Old 04-12-2005, 09:39 AM   #12547
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Default wiring for external batt

How do you guys wire an external pack to power your receiver/ servo?

Do I just connect it to the B/C on the Rx? I assume that would automatically cut out the power that comes from the battery pack connected to channel 2?

Appreciate your help.

Cheers!!
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Old 04-12-2005, 09:49 AM   #12548
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Pandora's box...
The reciever pack plugs into b/c. Then pull the red wire out of the plug for the speed controller and plug it back into #2 slot on the rx. Then turn on the reciever pack switch. With some speed controllers I had to turn that switch on also. I'm sure there are other ways, but this works for me
Wayne
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Old 04-12-2005, 10:53 AM   #12549
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Thanks SG1.

But I don't quite get your explanation. Could you be so kind as to go into the details.

Cheers!!
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Old 04-12-2005, 11:20 AM   #12550
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Default servo pack wiring

Most speed controls available today don't require any removal of wires.
Make a servo (reciever) pack harness with a switch on it and a plug for the battery slot on the reciever (actually, any slot will do). Leave all the esc wires in place and plugged in. Don't use the esc switch, I usually take it off. When you switch on the reciever pack it will power up the speed control, servo and reciever.
I've used this method on numerous models of Novak, LRP, Tekin and KO.
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Old 04-12-2005, 12:12 PM   #12551
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Default Re: new to 1:12

Quote:
Originally posted by yellow15
[
This track rocks! That track has everything from a carousel, chicanes, esses, and a nice straightaway. Carousels are the most annoying because you have to take it easy and wait until its over.
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Old 04-12-2005, 01:42 PM   #12552
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Removing the red wire from the plug is for safety... It doesn't work for long with both switches on!! With a Keyence speedo and a Tekin G-10 pro+ both switches had to be turned on or the speedo wouldn't work. Like I said.. there is a million ways to skin a cat... or wire up a reciever pack
Wayne
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Old 04-12-2005, 02:10 PM   #12553
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I do it just like OD explained, except I leave the switch from the speed control attached. It is more weight, but I can run the car for practice by turning the speed control (not the receiver pack). Don't have to charge it either.

For the race I turn on only the receiver pack.........and worst case if I forget to charge the receiver pack for a main I can run w/o it just by turning on the speed control.
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Old 04-12-2005, 02:12 PM   #12554
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what are the size of the cells for reciever packs? Where to maybe get some cells?

Thanks

Jon
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Old 04-12-2005, 02:17 PM   #12555
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Quote:
Originally posted by JDXray
what are the size of the cells for reciever packs? Where to maybe get some cells?

Thanks

Jon
www.teamirsrc.com
www.xtremercracing.com

They got some reciever batteries but I would recommend so light bulb batteries.
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