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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 08-07-2002, 08:48 AM   #1231
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actually try .18 first
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Old 08-07-2002, 04:28 PM   #1232
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Boomer & Darnold,
Thanks for the quick reply... so haveing the servo flat will give more ackerman in theory giving more steering in the actual feel of the car, or just more steering throw (movement of the wheels)?

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Old 08-07-2002, 09:18 PM   #1233
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My Switchblade 2002 came yesterday, and I started building tonight. UNfortunately, my kit was packaged with two rear chassis crossbraces, but no front end brace. Looks like I won't be racing this week.

Other than that, it's a great kit so far. the chassis is STOUT, that's for sure.

I decided to go with the Airtronics 94145Z servo and I'm looking into an Mtroniks M3 Cubic speedo. I want something that'll work on 4 cells without having to use a receiver pack. Any other suggestions for a speedo? I really want to avoid a receiver pack if I can.

Thanks in advance...

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Old 08-07-2002, 09:36 PM   #1234
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I am using a GMV12 without a rx pack and no problems so far
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Old 08-07-2002, 09:54 PM   #1235
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trips, i run a Novak Atom and have used a Cyclone with no reciever pack and they have both worked great, a couple people at my track use LRP Quantoms without reciever packs and they have no complaints with them.
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Old 08-07-2002, 10:06 PM   #1236
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Ok guys you won't believe it but I have posted twice today and neither is coming up so here we go again. I think Kev is playing some tricks at work. LOL

EricF- I'm unsure why I gained more steering but it doesn't appear to be from increased throw. I think that the lower cg and probably better ackerman is the culprit but I simply don't know.

Graphite- DaveL would be the man to ask about outdoor setups I would think. I posted what Jucha showed me last summer but it got lost. Plus I only ran it for two Saturdays anyway.
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Old 08-07-2002, 10:09 PM   #1237
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EricF- A thought just came to me about the increased steering from laying the servo down. Maybe laying the servo down allows the servo to better hold our inputs under the load of a turn. What do you guys think?
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Old 08-07-2002, 10:20 PM   #1238
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I think it is the increased throw. Most of the servos people are using have plenty of holding power. If anything the servo would have more holding power when it is angled due to a little friction on the shaft and bearing.
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Old 08-08-2002, 02:23 AM   #1239
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anyone know of an online store that sells the Switchblade 2002 internationally.
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Old 08-08-2002, 08:28 AM   #1240
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I talked with one of the faster guys at my track last night and says that ackerman does give a little more servo throw, but more importantly it cause the inside wheel to more (a tighter radius) thus giving more steering throughout the corner.

I've been thinking about trying the additional ackerman mount on my xxxs sedan just to see how it will affect things, but I already have too much steering traction with my current setup.

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Old 08-08-2002, 08:31 AM   #1241
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Aslo, does anyone know the part number for the switchblade left rear clamping hub... I have a RC12L3 with a screw on left hub which I'm not likeing to much...

The hub is a 3-bolt design? Right?
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Old 08-08-2002, 09:08 AM   #1242
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Eric, the part number is SB9828, Stealth Left Clamp Hub (Purple) 3 Hole.

Rowdy, we have some coming in hopefully tomorrow. I haven't gotten them up on the website yet but if you are interested I can hold one for you. Just post here or send me an email or p.m. Yes we do ship international.

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Old 08-08-2002, 09:49 AM   #1243
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I just got a 1/12 scale. Trnity sb splashett 2002
I traded on line here with Sigearhead and Everything went smooth.
I started to take a look at the car last night and one thing I dont understand and maybe it just my lack of understanding 1/12 scale

The rear axl moves up and down. upon further investigation i took the rear axl out and looked at the bulk head on the diff side I removed the plastic insert and found somthing very curious. The alumn. were the plastic insert sits has been milled out. what the heck is that all about??? the axl will move up and down very noticealy. does any body know why this would be this way
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Old 08-08-2002, 11:08 AM   #1244
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Randy - That doesn't sound right. The ride height adjuster should fit snuggly in the pod side plate.
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Old 08-10-2002, 09:21 AM   #1245
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Wink Hmmmm.....

Strange.....could it be the wrong plastic insert, like maybe from another brand of car? Just a thought.....
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