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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-03-2005, 12:51 AM   #12346
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Default 12 scale newbie

I'm just starting with 12th scale pan cars and got myself an older RC12L3.

Anybody can guide me on options I can put in this chassis? I saw some with shaft type parts that are part of the rear suspension, will this fit with this chassis? Any suggestion will be much appreciated.

Thanks!
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Old 04-03-2005, 01:55 AM   #12347
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Default Re: 12 scale newbie

Quote:
Originally posted by f2000racer
I'm just starting with 12th scale pan cars and got myself an older RC12L3.

Anybody can guide me on options I can put in this chassis? I saw some with shaft type parts that are part of the rear suspension, will this fit with this chassis? Any suggestion will be much appreciated.

Thanks!
It sounds like you are talking about a damper tube conversion. You can do the conversion a variety of ways, but the easiest is to use the "Uni-Tune" conversion kit by CRC. It comes with all the neccesary parts including the option of using side springs instead of the tweak screws in the t-bar. They've been making it for years and it fits the L3, L4 and other cars.
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Old 04-03-2005, 03:00 AM   #12348
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Default Re: Re: 12 scale newbie

Thanks, I'll take a further look at CRC's website.

QUOTE]Originally posted by odpurple
It sounds like you are talking about a damper tube conversion. You can do the conversion a variety of ways, but the easiest is to use the "Uni-Tune" conversion kit by CRC. It comes with all the neccesary parts including the option of using side springs instead of the tweak screws in the t-bar. They've been making it for years and it fits the L3, L4 and other cars. [/QUOTE]
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Old 04-03-2005, 08:35 AM   #12349
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i was looking at the crc site and noticed the uni-tune conversion. What exactly is inclued in the conversion? Does it convert an l3 or l4 to use the rear suspension of the carpet knife, or what exactly is it?
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Old 04-03-2005, 09:55 AM   #12350
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Default Help on CRC 6Pack

I'm having trouble in my setup, where i'm lacking in rear traction. My current setup is.

Front End
Tyres: Purple
Front Springs: Stock
Reactive caster: 0 Degree, Shims one on each side
Camber: 2
Ride Height: 4mm
Toe in: 2

Center
Shock Shock: Copper Springs, 35wt oil
Side Spring: White
Roll Center: 2 shims front 0 shims back / middle screw off
Damper tube: stock

Rear End
Tyres: Grey
Ride Height: 3mm
Pod Droop: 3mm

Misc
Spur: 98 teeth 64pitch
Pinion: 21 teeth 64pitch
Batt: 6 cells
Motor: Novak Brushless SS5800
Servo: Hitec HS-225-MG
Body: Nissan P35

I had to drop the rear to create clearace for my motor as it's hitting the upper tweak plate. my steering is fine but i don't seem to have enough traction at the rear. i'm playing on a wide asphalt track, with ground temp ard 34degrees max estimated.

Where am I making a mistake in the settings? My diffs are fine with no slip. Could it just be the rear tyres? If the case, what should I be looking at?(AE tyres will be easier for me to find instead of crc) I can't hit in conners.

All opinion is welcomes.. and btw what rollout should I be looking at for a Brushless on big tracks?

Cheers,
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Old 04-03-2005, 01:25 PM   #12351
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why is your front higher than the rear?
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Old 04-03-2005, 01:27 PM   #12352
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Maybe to increase rear traction...
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Old 04-03-2005, 01:42 PM   #12353
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there are other effective ways to increase rear traction besides weight shifting
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Old 04-03-2005, 01:45 PM   #12354
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maybe try the Parma Zytek 04S or Protoform Ascari. From reading a few pages back they seem to have a lot of downforce, and that may help
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Old 04-03-2005, 01:47 PM   #12355
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or maybe jaco white rears
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Old 04-03-2005, 01:51 PM   #12356
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I know weight shifting isn't "the" way to increase traction, but if you tried it all, you could give it A shot.
Ohh well, I guess he has A good explaination for it.

I see you're using Grey tires for the rear.
You could also try A softer rear compound to increase rear traction, like pink.
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Old 04-03-2005, 02:26 PM   #12357
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Rear End
Tires: Pink
Shock Shock: Green Springs, 20wt oil
Body: speed 8/9 or Yokomo MS1

Grey works sometimes but I will try Pink, normally on asphalt you will run a tier in the pink family, why not try Yokomo L tiers that are what Masami runs, 6 cell well you have power in that car, consider dropping to 4 cells and a 10x2 motor

Donít know what t-bar you have but I will try the 0.63 Ass. (Side Spring: White) and may try blue side springs

Rollout Brush less: as far as I know it should be geared as a stock motor, hard.

Alf
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Old 04-03-2005, 03:58 PM   #12358
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On the Silva T-plate what you can do is cut the frt side of a .063 Tbar and use it in place of the plastic ones you can recess the screws in the bottom just be careful and it works fine and you'll never have to replace it unless you hit hard going straight.

I have seen a Silva T bar break He was running either an 8 or 9 turn and got a glitch and went straight into the wall almost under full power.
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Old 04-03-2005, 05:59 PM   #12359
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my new set up worked flawless on asphalt.car was untouchable all day until i got lazy and threw on some different tires that really sucked .i wound up setting tq and the fastest most consistant laps all day.seems like this rigid set up is really working well.
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Old 04-03-2005, 06:09 PM   #12360
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Default 12L4

12L4 guys any way to take side to side slop from the front wheels of my 12L4.
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