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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-02-2005, 08:50 AM   #12316
PMK
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Thanks for the detailed explanation guys. To drag this a step further, I would assume the conversion cars could be setup to be more consistant and easier to drive also, at the expense of slower lap times.

As in some other motorsports, a quicker lap can be run with a car on the edge, but how on the edge are the conversions? Enough to be fast and still have many laps that are fast, or a little bit of extremely fast laps mixed with the slower ones regaining control.

I don't ask to condemn the conversions, more so to see where gains may be as a reason to convert.

BTW this will be primarily outdoor races.

PK
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Old 04-02-2005, 10:07 AM   #12317
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i am running the BMI conversion on asphalt outdoors and find it to be very consistant and carry alot of corner speed over the stock 12L4.i liked the stock 12L4 but if i can get the same feeling through the corner without having to lift off the throttle,i know i am going to increase my lap times.i am fine tuning the set up on it now.as of this time my lap times over the course of 8 minutes were .02-.03 second different overall.i also noticed that my motor lasted longer between cuts due to less arcing(didnt need brakes and didnt fully let off the throttle anywhere).this was also my first time running 1/12th scale in 10 years and managed to put it up with the top dogs on my first day out.
i feel that the stiff chassis helps with making the car consistant.every time your chassis flexes,it will return to its natural position which will cause the car to have a snap or notchy feeling through the corner.you can tone this down by increasing your dampening but it will cause a push.the only part i feel that should be flexing is the t plate.suspension is the key,you need to get the suspension working properly and it will be the best it can be.chassis flex will make it easy to set up because it will cover any overlooked areas in the set up but will not be as fast or consistant as if the suspension was doing its job on a rigid chassis.
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Old 04-02-2005, 11:43 AM   #12318
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Nice posts all.

What I have learned is that a stiffer chassi is easier to drive but it depend how you set up the car but my test has shown me that it is slower. But as all things what is very important is balance. I run Modified though. I donít think it can compare to stock, the driving style is so different.

About the BMI and the RC12L4 I think that most will drive faster whit the car that is easier to drive on the race. That is because on races you donít have a lot of time. But on the local track that you have learned you will be faster whit the most aggressive car.

But what makes this so fascinating is that it is about balance and what is fast on one place is not working other places

Alf
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Old 04-02-2005, 04:10 PM   #12319
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Quote:
Originally posted by protc3
i am running the BMI conversion on asphalt outdoors and find it to be very consistant and carry alot of corner speed over the stock 12L4.i liked the stock 12L4 but if i can get the same feeling through the corner without having to lift off the throttle,i know i am going to increase my lap times.i am fine tuning the set up on it now.as of this time my lap times over the course of 8 minutes were .02-.03 second different overall.i also noticed that my motor lasted longer between cuts due to less arcing(didnt need brakes and didnt fully let off the throttle anywhere).this was also my first time running 1/12th scale in 10 years and managed to put it up with the top dogs on my first day out.
i feel that the stiff chassis helps with making the car consistant.every time your chassis flexes,it will return to its natural position which will cause the car to have a snap or notchy feeling through the corner.you can tone this down by increasing your dampening but it will cause a push.the only part i feel that should be flexing is the t plate.suspension is the key,you need to get the suspension working properly and it will be the best it can be.chassis flex will make it easy to set up because it will cover any overlooked areas in the set up but will not be as fast or consistant as if the suspension was doing its job on a rigid chassis.
I hope you got it backwards about increasing lap times, and I would assume that if you can run .02 to .03 seconds difference per lap for 8 minutes that should be very consistant.

I need to toy with these concepts and very obviously test more. It seems I am having the major problems in this comeback, first is reactive castor is new to me, and 10 degrees may be too much outdoors. Second, I never drove a damper plate car and am starting to suspect I got it working too free. Which in turn makes it snappy and once you start to lose it at high speed and lift the reactive kicks in and makes things even worse.

Thus the reason I ask about conversions.

PK
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Old 04-02-2005, 05:32 PM   #12320
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what i meant was .1-.3 seconds overall.sorry. i was running 13.1-13.3 the whole race and never got away from that window.my lap times were 13.4 -14.0 with the stock chassis.
i encountered the same problem you are talking about with the snapping.i went to thicker dampening oil in between the washers to tame that snap.i am now going to a thicker t plate and lighter oil in the washers to see if i can get it any faster.the car is very consistant and i control the steering with the throttle.i actually had my d/r set at 30% and still had tons of usable steering.im telling you,im having such a good time with this car.i will let you know how it goes tommorow with my set up changes.
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Old 04-02-2005, 06:04 PM   #12321
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Default AH12

Speaking of conversions, Here's a picture of the Hara Conversion I just finished building today.
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Old 04-02-2005, 06:05 PM   #12322
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oops
Let's try that again
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Old 04-02-2005, 06:07 PM   #12323
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I think something is wrong with the forums, we can't post pictures.



Test
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Old 04-02-2005, 06:09 PM   #12324
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Quote:
Originally posted by tc3stocker
I think something is wrong with the forums, we can't post pictures.



Test

I thought it was me!

I'll try to post the pic again later
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Old 04-02-2005, 06:32 PM   #12325
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did you shrink the picture?it may be too large of a file
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Old 04-02-2005, 06:35 PM   #12326
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let me try
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Old 04-02-2005, 06:36 PM   #12327
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na dude,your right.its not working.
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Old 04-02-2005, 06:48 PM   #12328
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anybody have some input on spring steel t bars? how is it compare to giberglass? better times?
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Old 04-02-2005, 07:57 PM   #12329
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My friend just got one because my LHS was is going to have a 500 lap enduro but he got s springsteel t-plate so he wouldnt brake a t-plate during the race because he breaks them all the time u dont know how but he does and he stripped one of the main pieces to put it on today when he was hit not even that hard so i'm not sure how they run but some of the good guys at my track say there is no need for them and I doubt it will make you pull faster laps
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Old 04-02-2005, 08:01 PM   #12330
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Quote:
Originally posted by dakrat
anybody have some input on spring steel t bars? how is it compare to giberglass? better times?
I am running one on my Yokomo, outdoor on asphalt. I ran it all last year. I had plenty of rear traction and most importantly, the car never went out of tweak. That alone is good enough reason using a spring steel T bar and I will be starting the first outdoor race of the year, tomorrow with the same spring steel T bar I ran last year!!
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