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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-31-2005, 10:49 PM   #12301
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Quote:
Originally posted by Switch Blade
Who makes the P35 still? I cant seem to find it anywhere. I know that protoform once manufactured it, but I think it is discontinued.
Corally
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Old 03-31-2005, 11:54 PM   #12302
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Quote:
Originally posted by Hyperform Racing
That's interesting, I find it to be the opposite. The speed 8 feels very neutral and well balanced to me while the speed 12 feels much more aggressive (more steering). Never tried the P35...
Try the PARMA Zytek 04S. Very nice body with crazy downforce.

I always go for the .030 lexan though, as .020 is just too fragile.
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Old 03-31-2005, 11:59 PM   #12303
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Quote:
Originally posted by Soviet
Try the PARMA Zytek 04S. Very nice body with crazy downforce.

I always go for the .030 lexan though, as .020 is just too fragile.
hmm, never used that body either, I'll have to give it a try. I've been a parma speed 8 guy since it came out. I love the neutral feel of it.
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Old 04-01-2005, 12:15 AM   #12304
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Quote:
Originally posted by Hyperform Racing
hmm, never used that body either, I'll have to give it a try. I've been a parma speed 8 guy since it came out. I love the neutral feel of it.
It's actually the same rear end as the Speed 8. However the front has a bit more dowforce. Plus the curves on it are sexy. Honestly, I think it's the sexiest open-cockpit body to come out in some time. (The Ascari LMP by Protoform is ass-ugly in my opinion.)
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Old 04-01-2005, 06:36 AM   #12305
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Default Re: differences

Quote:
Originally posted by PMK
I've been following this topic for a short while as I begin to get back into RC and 1/12 specifically. I do need to ask though, with so many cars derived from the 12l platform, what actually makes the similar cars better from one version to another. I realize that link cars will differ, from t plates and damper discs from tubes etc. But other than battery slots and chassis ply orientations and thicknesses why the stated superiority of the different versions?

In the past I have driven many of the older 1/12 and each was totally different from the others and made for each chassis uniqueness (12e,12i, super phaser, p12, etc)

I just find it odd that there can be so much difference in such a similar format of each chassis. Any thoughts.

FWIW I did buy a 12l4 and have just started running it, it is far different from previous cars but will easily dial in. I ask the above to gain insight in setting this car up and what to expect from the other conversions if I go that route later.

PK
With little response to this I'm starting to possibly wonder if there really isn't much difference between a fairly stock L4 and a converted one. A lot is said about increased corner speeds with the modified chassis, but it appears noone has a reason why the conversion works.

PK
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Old 04-01-2005, 06:52 AM   #12306
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Quote:
Originally posted by Soviet
Try the PARMA Zytek 04S. Very nice body with crazy downforce.

I always go for the .030 lexan though, as .020 is just too fragile.
I find that the zytek has a little too much down force in the rear, it is just not as neutral as the speed 8. I run the zytek in mod because I have a problem with rear tracktion. so the zytek provide quite a bit more. it stock it was always slower for me and I noticed i woudl actually loose steering in high speed sweepers and the car tended to wander a bit in the straights, finally figured out about the down force in the rea. I just a few holes in the rear wing to reduce the drag and now it seams to flow alot better on the track. Did this with the ascari as well. just worst. the ascari just has way to much in the rear
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Old 04-01-2005, 06:54 AM   #12307
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Default differences

realistically, the only differences between equivalent T-bar chassis variations are:

- wheelbase
- stiffness of chassis and point(s) within the chassis where the flex occurs

Within T-Bars themselves, there are even variations (for instance Yok's outdoor .63 T-bar) of where the flex occurs (as opposed to just how much flex)

Obviously, separate from that, there are big differences among the various front-ends
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Old 04-01-2005, 07:10 AM   #12308
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Default Re: Re: differences

Quote:
Originally posted by PMK
With little response to this I'm starting to possibly wonder if there really isn't much difference between a fairly stock L4 and a converted one. A lot is said about increased corner speeds with the modified chassis, but it appears noone has a reason why the conversion works.

PK
I have only driven one other t-bar car and that is the bmiL4. Just got it about 1 month now and have had it on the track exactly 2 time. Here is what I found. The assoc 12l4 is probably the easiest car to drive and it drive stable, and is quick. The BMI is not as stable but is a lot quicker. I had problems when I first drove the BMI. It was a state race and got the car late friday during practice. I put it on the track and ran 2 quals with it. The car ran .3-.4 sec a lap faster, but I was very twitchy on the track. I had a hard time controlling where I wanted the car to go. So the last 2 quals, i put my 12l4 back on the track. needed nothing to get use to, it just ran and it ran ok. The times were good, but not as good as the bmi.

I think that the 12l4 is a very good car to get into 12th with and has a lot of potential and about the time you get tired of running it, there are soo many converstions that you can try that are on the same base parts of the 12l4, that you can not go wrong. Coming from sedan, the 1/12 has less to work on, it breaks less and you run longer on the track, you will want to upgrade no matter which car you pick.
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Old 04-01-2005, 08:05 AM   #12309
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Default Re:differences

Hey everyone...
There are alot of conversions out there, but like most say what's the difference?? I can tell you about the BMI 1/12 conversion since I designed it and have been working with Jason on it now for over 8 months.
Chassis stiffness biggest improvement. Any small change to the suspension will be felt. The chassis is 3/8" narrower. Helps eliminate drag in the corners. Front body mount position is forward and wider to support the body better. Optional servo mount and personal transponder mount holes. A 1 piece main chassis brace with 5 standoffs. Completely locks the chassis togather. Also has optional dampening tube position holes and 2 positions for the rear body mounts for rear bite. Battery location has over .32" adjustability front to back and slammed close as possible to the centerline of the car without changing the integritiy of the t-plate. The battery "slots" do not go threw the chassis and the tape has a channel under the chassis to keep it off the carpet! Less drag! The rear pod assembly has 2 different top plates, for tubes or plates, or even a 3 shock set up. The pod plates have 4 point mounting for the top plates to keep the pod from twisting in mod. and 19t. The pod plates have the lower axle and lowered motor set up. The left side pod plate and lower pod plate are shaped so you can put a motor in and out with a gear on. I can put a 31-100 in and take the motor right out. These are just a few things that we did to improve the cornering speed and handeling.
Wayne
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Old 04-01-2005, 08:11 AM   #12310
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Nice explanation Wayne. Thanks.
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Old 04-01-2005, 10:07 AM   #12311
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Someone ever tried the Hot Bodies Ferrari (open-cockpit/F-type) body, How does that one handle?
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Old 04-01-2005, 05:26 PM   #12312
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Difference between BMI and stock L4.

I sold my old L4 to a friend a few weeks ago. He wanted me to run it last weekend and tell him what I thought. The car was very very easy to drive but it has limits, I couldn't stay on the throttle like I could with my bmi and had less steering. It was very easy to be consistant with though. I'm not saying the car is slow it just doesn't have the corner speed of the bmi.

You may not think there is a difference, but if you drive an L4 and then a bmi you'll see/feel the difference.
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Old 04-01-2005, 05:38 PM   #12313
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So, what chassis is better in mod 12th L4 or BMI? Does the extra chassis flex help the L4 in mod?
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Old 04-02-2005, 06:43 AM   #12314
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tekin
Someone ever tried the Hot Bodies Ferrari (open-cockpit/F-type) body, How does that one handle?
Very low downforce. It might work if you're struggling with a car that easily flips over in the corners. Otherwise it isn't very usefull.
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Old 04-02-2005, 07:55 AM   #12315
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mtc3od...

It depends on your driving style. Like Fatdoggy said, the L4 is easy to drive and consistant. The BMI is more aggressive and has more tuning options. The chassis flex will help to a point if you don't have the suspesion set up properly. The problem is when relying on chassis flex as part of your suspension in the middle of the turn the chassis wants to go back to it's normal state and the car will feel like it's digging in and exit the turn differently each time. In stock it's not as noticeable. I'd rather run a stiff chassis and work on the suspension, then have a more consistant car that carries corner speed.

Wayne
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