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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-29-2005, 07:43 PM   #12286
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Default Re: Advise, front brace and crc strut

Quote:
Originally posted by ongbenghui
There is some talk on a lower rear alum pod, is it
useful ? is there a cheaper option that CRC ?

How do you usually calculate gear ratio for 1/12 ?
is there a guide line ?
Nothing cheaper in the US and the quality of the CRC rear pods is outstanding. It allows you to run your tires down to very small sizing.

Go to www.gearchart.com and pick the 1/12th scale car configuration.
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Old 03-29-2005, 08:38 PM   #12287
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how do we set the gear ratio in relation to the motor turn or track layout for 1/12. I always hear under/over gear ratio but unable to related to my motor & track layout condition.

Does higher ratio give u accelaration and suited for technical track? ... hope my Q make sense....
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Old 03-29-2005, 10:05 PM   #12288
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for 1/12 scale, you need to find roll out. What you do is find the diameter of your rear tires. Then you take this number and mulitply it by pi. After this you just divide it by the quotent(sp?) of you spur and pinion.

So for example: say you had a...idk a 46mm rear tire. you would take this and multiply it by 3.14 which is 144.44. Then say you had a 98 tooth spur and a 31 tooth pinion. 98/31=about 3.16
Finaly, divide 144.44 by 3.16 which equals about 45.71mm. a higher rollout is used for larger tracks with not as many slow speed sections, while a smaller rollout is used for smaller tracks with lots of low speed sections
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Old 03-30-2005, 01:17 PM   #12289
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My l3 chassis is pretty thrashed from hitting the walls and countless other things. Would I be able to drop an l4 chassis directly onto my l3 or will some of the screws not match up correctly?
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Old 03-30-2005, 01:21 PM   #12290
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i believe its a direct fit, but why not get like a t force chassis if it fits, because, its got the batterys rotated for easier taping in my opinion
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Old 03-30-2005, 01:33 PM   #12291
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Quote:
Originally posted by primusblowsgoat
i believe its a direct fit, but why not get like a t force chassis if it fits, because, its got the batterys rotated for easier taping in my opinion
My LHS doesnt carry many crc products so I couldnt really match the chassis up to the l3 components, so I thought that easiest thing would be to try the l4 chassis. Thanks for the suggestion though.
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Old 03-30-2005, 06:55 PM   #12292
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one thing to consider is that if you do the l4 chassis, you will need the battery trays as well
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Old 03-30-2005, 07:49 PM   #12293
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Quote:
Originally posted by Switch Blade
for 1/12 scale, you need to find roll out. What you do is find the diameter of your rear tires. Then you take this number and mulitply it by pi. After this you just divide it by the quotent(sp?) of you spur and pinion.

So for example: say you had a...idk a 46mm rear tire. you would take this and multiply it by 3.14 which is 144.44. Then say you had a 98 tooth spur and a 31 tooth pinion. 98/31=about 3.16
Finaly, divide 144.44 by 3.16 which equals about 45.71mm. a higher rollout is used for larger tracks with not as many slow speed sections, while a smaller rollout is used for smaller tracks with lots of low speed sections
Thanks alot. will try with several spur/pinion set i have @ my track.
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Old 03-31-2005, 08:37 AM   #12294
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Default body handling

Hi,

How's the handling of these 3 bodies ?
speed 8, speed 12 and nissan p35.

Looking at nissan p35 because it seems to give
space for wiring, unlike speed 12 which is very low.
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Old 03-31-2005, 11:39 AM   #12295
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This is my opinion, I sure other have different ones, and all in modified 12 scales
Speed 8/9 has more steering than Speed 12, Nissan P35
Nissan P35 in Mod is on some tracks very god to drive take very round curve and easy to drive, and races are still win whit it.

Test what works for you, monkey se monkey do dos not always pay off in faster lap times for 8 min consistence are very important


And have fun

Alf
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Old 03-31-2005, 04:05 PM   #12296
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Who makes the P35 still? I cant seem to find it anywhere. I know that protoform once manufactured it, but I think it is discontinued.
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Old 03-31-2005, 04:26 PM   #12297
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Allright guys,
I am getting my 12l4 ready to go. What is the reason for laying the servo down flat compared to keeping it at an angle?
Thanks
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Old 03-31-2005, 04:31 PM   #12298
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i layed the servo flat on my l3 and it lowers the cog a little bit. I also moved my servo up so i can run a flat reciever pack behind it to get a little better weight distribution. If you decide mount the servo flat, I was told to position the steering turnbuckles on the lowest hole of the servo saver. Remember to add shims under the ballstud to get rid of the bump steer, or to tune it to your liking
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Old 03-31-2005, 09:35 PM   #12299
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Quote:
Originally posted by alf.skaar
This is my opinion, I sure other have different ones, and all in modified 12 scales
Speed 8/9 has more steering than Speed 12, Nissan P35
Nissan P35 in Mod is on some tracks very god to drive take very round curve and easy to drive, and races are still win whit it.

Test what works for you, monkey se monkey do dos not always pay off in faster lap times for 8 min consistence are very important


And have fun

Alf
That's interesting, I find it to be the opposite. The speed 8 feels very neutral and well balanced to me while the speed 12 feels much more aggressive (more steering). Never tried the P35...
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Old 03-31-2005, 09:49 PM   #12300
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Default More on bumpers

I received two nice super light L4 bumpers from Slapmaster yesterday. Have two more on order from wannabee.

Both take PayPal and are super easy to deal with.
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