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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-27-2005, 07:39 PM   #12271
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Default bumper

I must say that I'm not a big fan of bumpers on 1/12th cars but I like this one. It's done really cleanly and it's big enough to be effective, but it doesn't look like you have the living room sofa stuck on the front of your car. Nice work
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Old 03-27-2005, 07:43 PM   #12272
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thanks od. me too not a big fan of bumper. and definately not a big fan of keep buying 50 dolla chassis. it actually look good in person.
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Old 03-27-2005, 11:23 PM   #12273
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gilroy is racing this wednesday......anybody going?
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Old 03-28-2005, 07:37 AM   #12274
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Hi Jim the 12th racing has really dropped off at Gilroy in the last month cant understand why? Its been down to two or three guys on Fri. nights. I was hoping that it would remain a strong class at HW. Anyway I guess Ill have to wait for the out door season to start in the valley. Thanx Big Bill
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Old 03-28-2005, 11:49 AM   #12275
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Default T-Bars

Has anyone used the T-bars from Power Push? I was thinking about getting a couple seeing the one's i have from associated are not the thickness they claim to be.

Thanks!

Last edited by Toxic Racing; 03-28-2005 at 06:27 PM.
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Old 03-29-2005, 12:54 AM   #12276
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Quote:
Originally posted by B-B
Hi Jim the 12th racing has really dropped off at Gilroy in the last month cant understand why? Its been down to two or three guys on Fri. nights. I was hoping that it would remain a strong class at HW. Anyway I guess Ill have to wait for the out door season to start in the valley. Thanx Big Bill
Jim and I are going, come on down!
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Old 03-29-2005, 04:46 AM   #12277
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Default power push 1/12 t-bar

Toxic,
I designed that t-bar for him. I run it on high bite tracks. If you run it on a track with very low bite you may have the ass end break free on you from lack of traction. The material of the t-bar is better quality then the stock Assoc. ones, you'll get the exact thickness you want, the plastic pivot screws (2-56) line up better, you have 2 optional tweek screw locations, and the rear hole are smaller diameter so they become lightly threaded when you put the screws in.
Wayne
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Old 03-29-2005, 05:22 AM   #12278
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Default T-Bars

Thanks sg1- on that t-bar what would you use the rear tweak screws for?
That's nice to know when you buy a .075 t-bar you get a .075 t-bar. also are the t-bars stronger?

Thanks.
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Old 03-29-2005, 08:21 AM   #12279
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Default Power Push t-bars

The T-bars may not be "stronger", but the material is a better grade fiberglass. It will return to center better and longer then the Assoc. ones. The additional tweek screw location can be used for limiting or even giving the t-bar a stiffer feel. Just by moving the tweek screws to the back location the t-plate feels much stiffer. I use that position on high bite tracks to get the car to corner faster. I ran this t-bar at the Indoor Champs all week and ran the car in stock and mod. and had no problems. I used a .079" t-bar there.
Wayne
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Old 03-29-2005, 08:43 AM   #12280
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Default Re: Power Push t-bars

Quote:
Originally posted by sg1
The T-bars may not be "stronger", but the material is a better grade fiberglass. It will return to center better and longer then the Assoc. ones. The additional tweek screw location can be used for limiting or even giving the t-bar a stiffer feel. Just by moving the tweek screws to the back location the t-plate feels much stiffer. I use that position on high bite tracks to get the car to corner faster. I ran this t-bar at the Indoor Champs all week and ran the car in stock and mod. and had no problems. I used a .079" t-bar there.
Wayne
Wayne-if you make it to practice Thursday night-can you bring those kingpins of yours? I'd like to start running them.
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Old 03-29-2005, 11:29 AM   #12281
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YES DEAR.....
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Old 03-29-2005, 11:39 AM   #12282
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Quote:
Originally posted by sg1
YES DEAR.....
Do they come in pink?
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Old 03-29-2005, 05:12 PM   #12283
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Not exactly... but close... they are grey with a purple tint to them The natural TiCN color!!
Wayne
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Last edited by sg1; 03-30-2005 at 05:07 AM.
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Old 03-29-2005, 06:38 PM   #12284
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Quote:
Originally posted by jrrc
gilroy is racing this wednesday......anybody going?
Please say "Howdy!" to MF for me.
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Old 03-29-2005, 06:48 PM   #12285
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Default Advise, front brace and crc strut

Hi,

I am new to 1/12. Just got a CRC 6 packs. Please advise.

I noticed that RC12L3 got a front alum brace that link
the steering block together. I don't have that on my
CRC, is it useful ? What's the effect for the brace ?

My CRC got with this strut thingy on the rear pod.
The manual suggest a thick sillicon oil. Err... how thick
is thick ? Can I use sillicon grease instead ? I tried
that and it seems okie. Am I doing the right thing.

There is some talk on a lower rear alum pod, is it
useful ? is there a cheaper option that CRC ?

How do you usually calculate gear ratio for 1/12 ?
is there a guide line ?

And... maybe silly me... is there such thing as rubber
tires for 1/12 ?

Please advise.
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