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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-25-2005, 10:57 PM   #12226
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Default Re: Yokomo YRX12 Hybrid

Quote:
Originally posted by Crashby
Here is a picture of my outdoor car. I used a Yokomo YRX12 chassis as it had the widest spacing to move the weight of the batteries away from the center line of the car for better weight transfer to the outside wheels to increase grip in corners. The upper and lower motor pod plates are CRC along with the dampener tubes. It also has the IRS front adjustable role center caster blocks, Niftech rear axle and right side hub with an IRS left side clamping hub. I used Castle Creations 16ga wire with the wire soldered to the lower tabs on the motor. OD cleaned up the electronics wire as he is real good at soldering to printed circuit boards on the servo and ESC. I have already ruined two LRP's trying to shorten the leads. Thanks for the pictures, OD.

wheres ur antenna?
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Old 03-25-2005, 11:18 PM   #12227
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have u guys tried using 12 balls in the spur? this thing is smoooooooooooth.
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Old 03-25-2005, 11:33 PM   #12228
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Default Re: Re: Yokomo YRX12 Hybrid

Quote:
Originally posted by dakrat
wheres ur antenna?
It's inside the antenna tube. It's a Paragon 'Pro Stick' hollow graphite antenna.
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Old 03-25-2005, 11:34 PM   #12229
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Quote:
Originally posted by dakrat
have u guys tried using 12 balls in the spur? this thing is smoooooooooooth.
And just throw in a Slapmaster and you will find out what smoooooooooth really is...
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Constantly evolving CRC WGT and WGT-R/T...Carpet & Asphalt...All thanks to Team CRC.
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Old 03-25-2005, 11:38 PM   #12230
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Quote:
Originally posted by dakrat
have u guys tried using 12 balls in the spur? this thing is smoooooooooooth.
right you are! always always always use 12. takes less pressure to lock the diff so it's smooooooooooooth!!!
See? my diff has one mo 'o' in smooth than yers
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Old 03-25-2005, 11:41 PM   #12231
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Quote:
Originally posted by JRX-S Bill
And just throw in a Slapmaster and you will find out what smoooooooooth really is...
too much money. too much weight. not better diff (does last forever, though)
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Old 03-26-2005, 12:02 AM   #12232
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imagine using 12 ceramic balls... smooth, light, last even longer. speaking of ceramic balls, where can i get one?
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Old 03-26-2005, 12:24 AM   #12233
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Quote:
Originally posted by dakrat
imagine using 12 ceramic balls... smooth, light, last even longer. speaking of ceramic balls, where can i get one?
We've been using ceramic balls for some time, very smooth and they last a long time. Get them from KGB or RC4less. 8 bucks for 12.
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Old 03-26-2005, 12:52 AM   #12234
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whats the website for kgb?
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Old 03-26-2005, 02:31 AM   #12235
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I'm considering to join 1/12 pan right now. I did some research over this thread to pick my target car. Right now I'm looking at AH12 convertion kit. But...

Is AH12 convertion kit only for 12L3? Or 12L4 also fit with AH12 convertion kit?

The reason is I wanna get 12L3 first to see if I really like 1/12 pan (well, 2nd hand 12L3 is very money-friendly..). But what I really afread is I got no parts supply on 12L3 in near future and forced to go with 12L4 (and if AH12 is not compatiable with 12L4, that means a chassis wasted). If 12L4 chassis mounting placement is identical with 12L3, the worse case will only be replacing froend end and rear end with 12L4 parts.


Or, is there any other convertion kit which using no T-bar (either PB suspension or something like AH12's unique rear suspension, none-saddle battery, and based on 12L4?

CRC also looks good but parts supply is really a huge problem for my LHS (well, even AE parts is kind hard because there seems virtually no one playing 1/12 pan right now). I have to go with AE based car if I wanna try it....
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Old 03-26-2005, 05:01 AM   #12236
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Quote:
Originally posted by ttso
I'm considering to join 1/12 pan right now. I did some research over this thread to pick my target car. Right now I'm looking at AH12 convertion kit. But...

Is AH12 convertion kit only for 12L3? Or 12L4 also fit with AH12 convertion kit?

The reason is I wanna get 12L3 first to see if I really like 1/12 pan (well, 2nd hand 12L3 is very money-friendly..). But what I really afread is I got no parts supply on 12L3 in near future and forced to go with 12L4 (and if AH12 is not compatiable with 12L4, that means a chassis wasted). If 12L4 chassis mounting placement is identical with 12L3, the worse case will only be replacing froend end and rear end with 12L4 parts.


Or, is there any other convertion kit which using no T-bar (either PB suspension or something like AH12's unique rear suspension, none-saddle battery, and based on 12L4?

CRC also looks good but parts supply is really a huge problem for my LHS (well, even AE parts is kind hard because there seems virtually no one playing 1/12 pan right now). I have to go with AE based car if I wanna try it....
I wouldn't go out looking for conversions just yet, get a car and see how you like it first.... With the exception of Corally and CEFX all the 12th scales take pretty much the same parts.... The only difference between a 12L3 and L4 is the chassis plate, L3 will take 6 cells....

These cars aren't like the chassis of the week TC's. The parts from a brand new 12L4 will fit and work on a 12L.... A lot of people are taking the old style front ends and using them these days....
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Old 03-26-2005, 07:54 AM   #12237
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Default KGB

Quote:
Originally posted by dakrat
whats the website for kgb?
www.kgbracing.com
difficult website, it's best to call 559.277.5421
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Old 03-26-2005, 08:00 AM   #12238
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Default ttso

Quote:
Originally posted by ttso


Or, is there any other convertion kit which using no T-bar (either PB suspension or something like AH12's unique rear suspension, none-saddle battery, and based on 12L4?

(
There is a kit to convert the 12L3/4 to the SpeedMerchant Rev 4.
You can find it on the SpeedMerchant website www.teamspeedmerchant.com
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Old 03-26-2005, 08:18 AM   #12239
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Quote:
Originally posted by ttso
I'm considering to join 1/12 pan right now. I did some research over this thread to pick my target car. Right now I'm looking at AH12 convertion kit. But...

Is AH12 convertion kit only for 12L3? Or 12L4 also fit with AH12 convertion kit?

The reason is I wanna get 12L3 first to see if I really like 1/12 pan (well, 2nd hand 12L3 is very money-friendly..). But what I really afread is I got no parts supply on 12L3 in near future and forced to go with 12L4 (and if AH12 is not compatiable with 12L4, that means a chassis wasted). If 12L4 chassis mounting placement is identical with 12L3, the worse case will only be replacing froend end and rear end with 12L4 parts.

Or, is there any other convertion kit which using no T-bar (either PB suspension or something like AH12's unique rear suspension, none-saddle battery, and based on 12L4?

CRC also looks good but parts supply is really a huge problem for my LHS (well, even AE parts is kind hard because there seems virtually no one playing 1/12 pan right now). I have to go with AE based car if I wanna try it....
The only difficulty with the Hara conversion is getting parts for the rear suspension, which is all HPI. Those parts are almost impossible to find states side and marginally better in Japan. And finding the different springs for the rear suspension is impossible. OD and I each have three of the Hara conversion kits. We bought three mostly for the extra parts. The little white plastic motor pod locators are the weak link in the rear suspension. If you don't hit anything they have a serviceable life span, but if you hit a lot, they can break and you can't go to the your LHS and buy replacements.

As for the Associated 1/12th L cars... they are kind of like the industry standard. You will never have any problems finding factory parts for those font ends. Additionally, there is a number of aftermarket, direct replacement parts available as well. You can build a complete Associated clone and never use any factory parts!

My advice, if you are racing outdoors on asphalt, get yourself a used 12L3 and do some minor updates to it like lowered rear motor pod plates and go race it. If you like it then start upgrading on the parts. If you are racing on carpet, the thicker L4 chassis is a performance enhancer but not necessary. You can still be competitive on carpet with the L3 chassis.
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Old 03-26-2005, 11:39 AM   #12240
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Default Diffs

I'm rebuilding my L4 conversion(from an L3) diff.I'm using kimbrough spurs with the D rings.I find that I can put the diff balls in both the inner and outer holes on the gear,thereby using 12 instead of 6 balls.Some of the local oval guys told me not to do that,That I should use the inner or outer but,not both.Any comments from the experts?Thanks,Mario.
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