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  • I dont know of any but your best bet to get a thicker chassis for the L4 is to get the CRC T-force chassis or get the BMI conversion. Im sure you can talk to some of the carbon fiber chassis makers and see if they can cut you a thicker chassis for the L4.....like PRP, BMI or Penguin
  • Yokomo YRX12 Hybrid
    Here is a picture of my outdoor car. I used a Yokomo YRX12 chassis as it had the widest spacing to move the weight of the batteries away from the center line of the car for better weight transfer to the outside wheels to increase grip in corners. The upper and lower motor pod plates are CRC along with the dampener tubes. It also has the IRS front adjustable role center caster blocks, Niftech rear axle and right side hub with an IRS left side clamping hub. I used Castle Creations 16ga wire with the wire soldered to the lower tabs on the motor. OD cleaned up the electronics wire as he is real good at soldering to printed circuit boards on the servo and ESC. I have already ruined two LRP's trying to shorten the leads. Thanks for the pictures, OD.


  • crashby,

    That is a thing of beauty, I have however had a killer idea for for getting power to the motor. Will you be out tomorrow? Take it easy.

    Chris.
  • Quote:
    are parma tires direct fit in a t-fource? coz the crc ones have this deep hole in the middle for the nut.
    This works out great in practice. With the CRC front wheels, when you scrape a wall (and we all do), the locknut and axle is shrouded or protected. This stops the wheels from sticking to the wall like glue and breaking a front end part.

    Also, they just used the wheels and tires to T.Q. the Snowbirds and the Nats.
  • You guys should be there just to have a "car show".
  • Steve,

    It will be a shame for me to hit that car.

    Jim
  • Re: Yokomo YRX12 Hybrid
    Quote:
    Originally posted by Crashby
    Here is a picture of my outdoor car. I used a Yokomo YRX12 chassis as it had the widest spacing to move the weight of the batteries away from the center line of the car for better weight transfer to the outside wheels to increase grip in corners. The upper and lower motor pod plates are CRC along with the dampener tubes. It also has the IRS front adjustable role center caster blocks, Niftech rear axle and right side hub with an IRS left side clamping hub. I used Castle Creations 16ga wire with the wire soldered to the lower tabs on the motor. OD cleaned up the electronics wire as he is real good at soldering to printed circuit boards on the servo and ESC. I have already ruined two LRP's trying to shorten the leads. Thanks for the pictures, OD.
    It's like the yoke of an egg - the best part.
  • Quote:
    Originally posted by jrrc
    Steve,

    It will be a shame for me to hit that car.

    Jim
    Suggestion: Run the thick .030 body...he, he...
  • Quote:
    Originally posted by insideline
    This works out great in practice. With the CRC front wheels, when you scrape a wall (and we all do), the locknut and axle is shrouded or protected. This stops the wheels from sticking to the wall like glue and breaking a front end part.

    Also, they just used the wheels and tires to T.Q. the Snowbirds and the Nats.

    kool. i like the way the front wheels are made. nice and clean look. only thing is that they're expensive. 5 bucks more than any other brand.
  • Quote:
    OD cleaned up the electronics wire as he is real good at soldering to printed circuit boards on the servo and ESC. I have already ruined two LRP's trying to shorten the leads.
    why would you solder to the circut boards instead of just snipping the wire and putting a new connector on the end?

    just curious
  • Quote:
    Originally posted by primusblowsgoat
    why would you solder to the circut boards instead of just snipping the wire and putting a new connector on the end?

    just curious
    The challenge! OD for president.
  • OD are you good at jenga?
    threading needles? with your eyes closed?
  • snip snip
    Quote:
    Originally posted by primusblowsgoat
    why would you solder to the circut boards instead of just snipping the wire and putting a new connector on the end?

    just curious
    I use both methods. Some components are very easy to shorten at the cirquit board (like KO and Hitec servos, Novak GTX esc and others) and it can be quicker to do it that way. Some components (Q2 esc, 94145 servo) don't allow for easy access to the cirquit board and you have to replace the plug. Way back when I couldn't get the unassembled plugs I had to learn how to shorten at the cirquit board (plus it's fun).
  • Quote:
    Originally posted by primusblowsgoat
    OD are you good at jenga?
    threading needles? with your eyes closed?
    Can't do Jenga-my hands shake too much.
  • Quote:
    Originally posted by odpurple
    Can't do Jenga-my hands shake too much.
    Ahhhhhh! We could have a shakeoff...Essential Tremor-rama...

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