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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-24-2005, 09:58 PM   #12196
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I'm planning on Gilroy tomorrow night and Stockton on Saturday. Anybody else?
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Old 03-24-2005, 10:05 PM   #12197
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Quote:
Originally posted by jrrc
I'm planning on Gilroy tomorrow night and Stockton on Saturday. Anybody else?
Just Stockton on Saturday here.

Have tomorrow off. Going to see Victor's new store in Newark.
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Old 03-24-2005, 10:34 PM   #12198
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Default Re: Re: RTB 12L4

Quote:
Originally posted by JohnB
Wow, that's a full chassis. He probably won't need a receiver pack for the stock motor. What's that on top of the servo?

take care
john
That's a jst plug on top of the servo. It's where the servo pack plugs in (and charges)

He wanted to have a servo pack so he could run both stock and mod.
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Old 03-24-2005, 10:43 PM   #12199
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Quote:
Originally posted by dakrat
quick question. i have an airtronics 94145 metal gear servo. what size screw do i use to mount servo saver? i was diggin in my spares and cant find any.
That servo uses a 3mm metric screw. I like to get a socket head screw and file the head dia down a little so it fits inside the recess in the servo saver. KO, Futaba and Hitec (12th scale)servos use 2.5 mm metric screws.
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Old 03-24-2005, 10:51 PM   #12200
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Will OD be at Stockton on Saturday?
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Old 03-24-2005, 11:24 PM   #12201
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Quote:
Originally posted by JRX-S Bill
Will OD be at Stockton on Saturday?
I can give you a firm maybe.
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Old 03-24-2005, 11:29 PM   #12202
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Quote:
Originally posted by odpurple
Parma tires will work, and in my opinion are a lot better than CRC, but the rears are offset so you need to add spacers equally on both sides to make up the difference.
Parma fronts use flanged bearings, so the CRC kit bearings will not work.

for the fronts, do u use two flanged bearings each wheel? does the wheel hide the nut like the crc does? for the rear, the kit uses one 1/4 shim on the left wheel, if i wanna use parma wheels, i just need to add one 1/4 shim the the right?
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Old 03-24-2005, 11:50 PM   #12203
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Quote:
Originally posted by Toxic Racing
I'm now running the Assoc. 35wt silicone oil that came with the kit.
If i went down in shock oil wt. would the spring have to be changed or just leave the stock green spring on?

Thanks.
I'm not 100% but I think the 12L4 kit comes with 30wt oil. I only run 30wt but some run 35 at my track. I wouldn't change the green spring just yet...I found it's best to do one change at a time so you know how your car reacts to the change. You learn more that way. Your probably just going to have to try it out and make changes accordingly.
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Old 03-24-2005, 11:59 PM   #12204
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A super-dialed smooth carpet setup for RC12L3/4. (Aggressive on power steering, neutral off power and perfect traction balance):


REAR:

Jaco Grey Tires
.075 "Thick" T-Bar
50wt shock oil
Red shock spring
Niftech Teflon damper puck discs

Front:

Jaco Purple Tires
5-degree upper-arm mounts
Both caster shims to the rear
.022 springs on kingpins
1-degree negative camber
0.5-degrees toe-in

BE SURE TO DIAL IN SOME NEGATIVE EXPONENTIAL ON STEERING! After you dial her down via radio, she's ready to tear up the track if you have enough motor...



Give this setup a shot if you want a very aggressive yet still sane car.
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Old 03-25-2005, 12:56 AM   #12205
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Quote:
Originally posted by dakrat
for the fronts, do u use two flanged bearings each wheel? does the wheel hide the nut like the crc does? for the rear, the kit uses one 1/4 shim on the left wheel, if i wanna use parma wheels, i just need to add one 1/4 shim the the right?
Use all flanged bearings in the front. No, the wheel does not hide the nut.
You have to shim each side equally on the rear. When you built your car you should have centered the rear axle on the car (make the distance from the outside of the wheel to the centerline of the chassis equal on both sides). You add or subtract shims equally from each side to make the car wider or narrower; maximum width is 172mm. The Parma wheels have an offset on the back (Jacos are flush) so using Parmas on a car set up for Jacos will give you a narrower overall width. So you add shims equally on both sides to make up the difference.
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Old 03-25-2005, 06:26 AM   #12206
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tekin
Using thinner oil will soften the rear end,
so it gets more traction (rear end).
That means the car will have less steering than with thicker oil.

Oh it has plenty of steering! can i run a thiner oil with the thick t-bar?

Thanks.
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Old 03-25-2005, 07:17 AM   #12207
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Quote:
Originally posted by vtl1180ny
Check out the CRC website, they have a few different setups...
The only thing I was able to find was indoor setup from the latest race and the standard setup. Are there more that I am just not seeing?
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Old 03-25-2005, 11:59 AM   #12208
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Default Re: Setup Help

Quote:
Originally posted by jag
I just picked up a used CRC Carpet Knife V3.1 and was wondering if anyone had a good setup for a fairly high bit asphalt track. The car was used for indoor carpet racing and is pretty tight/stiff. I am new to electric 1/12 so any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
jag
Jag, Try blue side springs, an AE RED center spring 50 wt. oil in the shock, med. LOSI hydrdrive fluid in the tubes. .022 front springs. Parma Pink Rears, Purple Fronts. If the track is tight run 2 degrees caster, if it has alot of sweeping sections try 4 degrees. Camber, set so the front tires wear even. This should be an okay place to start.
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Old 03-25-2005, 01:53 PM   #12209
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for the stock racers out there, what brush/spring combo yields most overall power for the monster?
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Old 03-25-2005, 04:16 PM   #12210
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Anyone or any company out there making thicker chassis for the L4? I mean direct replacement chassis, not conversions to another car (like BMI, T-Fource, etc...)
Thanks
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