R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-23-2005, 10:59 AM   #12151
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 814
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Tekin
Does someone has A good method to glue foams on the rims?
I know you can buy them already mounted on rims, but there aren't 1/12th "tires mounted on rims" available overhere (netherlands, europe).
With exeption of Academy, but there tires are made out of A bad quality. So I'm planning to buy there rims (which are ok, not the best out there) and mount Corally tires on them.
But the glue I'm using for my rubber touringcar tires dry out very quickly, so if I'll use that for the 1/12th foams, I'll have to be very quick or the glue is already dry and not on all places.
Any suggestions?!
Here is what OD and I do.

Use contact cement. The type of glue that you use to glue laminate material to counter tops. Its coloring ranges from yellow to green. Brush the inside of the tire and the outside of the wheel. Completely cover both surfaces. Not too thick! Just a good covering. Set them aside for around 10 minutes or so until the glue becomes almost dry. Some RC tire manufacturers sell their own tire glue but itís more expensive.

Now for the messy part. Using a small bucket, fill it about half way or so with lacquer thinner. If you don't have a tire horn, Kimbrough products makes a 1/12th scale and a 1/10th scale tire horn that works awesome! Place the tire horn on the wheel and dip it into the lacquer thinner. Do not shake off the excess thinner. Place the wheel with the horn still on it on to a towel. Next dip the tire into the thinner and then just push the tire over the horn and onto the wheel. I then sit the horn aside and use an old wooden ruler to roll the wheel while pressing down with the ruler on the tire to make sure that their is good contact of the two glued surfaces and squeeze out any excess thinner. You will probably find that the tire will extend out over the edge of the wheel both on the inside and the outside of the wheel. Thatís ok. You will trim that off during the truing process. Also make sure that when you are shoehorning the tire onto the wheel that you orient the tire properly. If you using a dual compound tire make sure the firm compound is on the outside of the wheel. Also be aware of seams. They should at least be in the center of the wheel or oriented to the inside of the wheel. You have just completed mounting and gluing a wheel. Sit them aside after gluing and let them setup. After they have dried a day or so, and after you have trued them, take some CA glue and go around the edges of the wheel and tire where they meet. This will help with separation of the tire and wheel under sever corning conditions.

After you have done a few, it gets pretty fast and simple. Good Luck!
Crashby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2005, 11:03 AM   #12152
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default mounting tires

Quote:
Originally posted by Tekin
Does someone has A good method to glue foams on the rims?
The best way to mount foams is to use contact cement, here's how:

Scuff the surface of the wheel so the glue won't peel off.
Paint the inside of the tire and the rim with contact cement (most kinds will work, I use the type made for gluing laminates [counter tops]). I think Trinity has some R/C specific tire glue.
Let the glue dry.
To mount the tire you need a tire horn (they come in two sizes-1/12th and 1/10th-1/8 and are made by Kimbrough). It is a cone shaped plastic tool. The large end fits on the wheel.
Dip the wheel, tire, and horn in laquer thinner; then push the tire down over the horn onto the wheel.
Let it dry and then true.

See? it's easy!
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2005, 11:05 AM   #12153
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

god, Ashby, you sure type faster than me
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2005, 11:07 AM   #12154
Tech Master
 
JamesArluck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,232
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to JamesArluck
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Tekin
Does someone has A good method to glue foams on the rims?
I know you can buy them already mounted on rims, but there aren't 1/12th "tires mounted on rims" available overhere (netherlands, europe).
With exeption of Academy, but there tires are made out of A bad quality. So I'm planning to buy there rims (which are ok, not the best out there) and mount Corally tires on them.
But the glue I'm using for my rubber touringcar tires dry out very quickly, so if I'll use that for the 1/12th foams, I'll have to be very quick or the glue is already dry and not on all places.
Any suggestions?!
To mount foam tires onto the rims I use Contact Cement, Laquer Thinner, and a tire horn (Kimbrough Part# 105). This is some nasty, messy stuff, so be sure you wear gloves and work in a well-ventilated area. You may want to do a test and make sure the thinner doesn't damage your wheels.

1)Fill an old mayo jar, coffee can, small baking dish, or oher shallow glass/metal container about half full with laquer thinner.
2) Brush a good amount of contact cement on the inside of the tire and outside of the rim (I rough up the outside of the rim with sandpaper, but it's not really neccessary). Set them aside and let them dry for 10-15 minutes.
3)After the contact cement has been given some time to set up, it's time for assembly. Dunk the wheel in the laquer thinner and place it on your table. Dunk the tire horn in thinner and put it on top of the wheel. Then dunk the tire in thinner and slide it over the horn and onto the tire.
4)Remove the horn. You'll still be able to move the around on the wheel a bit, so get it as well centered as you can. Finally, dunk the whole assembly in the thinner one last time and set it aside to dry overnight. After drying overnight you can true the tire and run.

Hope this helps, let me know if you have any questions.

-James

Edit: Too slow
JamesArluck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2005, 11:11 AM   #12155
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default The Podium in the Typing Race

1. Crashby

2. O'D

3. Arluck

that's the first time I've ever beaten James at anything!
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2005, 11:15 AM   #12156
Tech Fanatic
 
primusblowsgoat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Pingree Grove, IL
Posts: 987
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to primusblowsgoat Send a message via Yahoo to primusblowsgoat
Default

Do you guys glue up your own foams alot?

or is that just knowledge from yrs back?
__________________
Schumacher Racing
Schumacher Cat SX2
Schumacher Cougar SV
primusblowsgoat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2005, 11:27 AM   #12157
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by primusblowsgoat
Do you guys glue up your own foams alot?

or is that just knowledge from yrs back?
I only do it when I have too.

I like yokomo rims but not the foams so I glue up Jaco rubber sometimes.

I'll be doing it for my Kawada because the wheel/ hub is different.

But mostly I just use Parma
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2005, 11:30 AM   #12158
Tech Fanatic
 
primusblowsgoat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Pingree Grove, IL
Posts: 987
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to primusblowsgoat Send a message via Yahoo to primusblowsgoat
Default

is it any cheaper to do your own?

probably not since i would need a truer then too
__________________
Schumacher Racing
Schumacher Cat SX2
Schumacher Cougar SV
primusblowsgoat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2005, 11:33 AM   #12159
Tech Elite
 
odpurple's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,187
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by primusblowsgoat
is it any cheaper to do your own?

probably not since i would need a truer then too
it depends on where you get your donuts, but generally it's more expensive to mount your own.

You are going to need a truer sooner or later, anyway.
odpurple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2005, 11:34 AM   #12160
Tech Addict
 
Thraex's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 518
Default

Wow.... those are some FAST replies!
Thanks for all the information, I have to buy A tire horn and some laquer thinner. When I have those, I can "play" around with it.
but for the record, one explaination is more than enough!
__________________
Thijs van M[HPI/HB]
Thraex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2005, 11:36 AM   #12161
Moderator
 
Pro ten Holland's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Druten/Holland (Europe)
Posts: 1,658
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

I almost always glue my tires myself. When I do it myself, they don't come off, and I cut a lot of costs here.
In the past three seasons of pro ten racing, and this winter 1/12th scale, I have never gotten a tire that I glued myself come undone.
Here's my tactic:
Get a jar of "Bison Kit" from Gamma (hardware store chain in Holland).
It's a blue and white metal jar with yellow glue inside.
Get some labratory rubber gloves, a simple paintbrush and an old towell.
Brush a thick coat of glue on the outside of the rim and the inside of the donut. Put a piece of paper on the inside of the rim, to suck up excess glue.
Put the rim on the towell and press on the donut. It will "floop" into place. Push through till it's where you want it.
Whipe off the excess glue.
Et Voila!!
Your tire will probably be covered with glue now, but that will come off when yue true it.
I just demonstrated this technique to one off my pro ten racing buddy's and he was astounded by how messy this is, but also how effective!
__________________
http://www.rc-lemans.de/
Pro ten Holland is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2005, 12:26 PM   #12162
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 814
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by odpurple
god, Ashby, you sure type faster than me
I type everything into a word document, do spell and grammar check and then cut and paste into the reply on the website.

That way I's looks likes I got's smarts!

NO RESPONSE FROM THE PEANUT GALLERY!!!
Crashby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2005, 12:43 PM   #12163
Tech Fanatic
 
revzalot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Nor * Cal
Posts: 959
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Red face

Being a fast typer, he probably has a fast trigger finger. Uh oh!
revzalot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2005, 01:22 PM   #12164
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 814
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by revzalot
Being a fast typer, he probably has a fast trigger finger. Uh oh!
Old Japanese proverb: "Slow Down to Go Fast"
Crashby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2005, 01:36 PM   #12165
Tech Champion
 
TryHard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Sydney, NSW
Posts: 5,173
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Hey guys, just thought i'd let you know how i'm getting on with my crc....

basically, not very far

I have all my electronics, old touring batteries have been split into 4cell packs, BUT i have no car.... doh!
Unfortuantly it didn't arrive before i had to move out of uni for 4 weeks, so fingers crossed it will be waiting for me when i get back, I'm itching to start driving it

I've made up a list of parts I reckon could be useful to me, and the best bit is it comes in at just over £20.... awesome, I see what people mean about 12th's being affordable.

Anyway, I'll catch ya all later, i'll be keeping an eye on this thread.

Regards
Ed
__________________
| THard.co.uk | Xray | Hobbywing |
TryHard is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 05:10 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0