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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-21-2005, 10:54 AM   #12106
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i dont wanna start another thread. where can i buy motor harwares like the endbell screws, that lil fastener that holds the board, etc... ?
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Old 03-21-2005, 12:29 PM   #12107
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hey you guy's have any tips on taping for the l4 saddle pack. ie. which tape and what ever. any info would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 03-21-2005, 12:34 PM   #12108
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Quote:
Originally posted by cyrrus
hey you guy's have any tips on taping for the l4 saddle pack. ie. which tape and what ever. any info would be greatly appreciated.
Strapping Tape, with the little thread in them. Can get it at Staples for 2-3 bucks.
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Old 03-21-2005, 04:45 PM   #12109
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Do most of you use set-up boards. If so what brand and modle.
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Old 03-21-2005, 05:07 PM   #12110
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Quote:
Originally posted by JDXray
Strapping Tape, with the little thread in them. Can get it at Staples for 2-3 bucks.

thats what i use and it never failed me. some people are rich enough to spend 12 bucks a roll for "specialized tape for RC" . if people dont buy them, they will lower the price. not even worth it.
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Old 03-21-2005, 05:09 PM   #12111
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go to the 99c store and you'll find stuff that's just fine!
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Old 03-21-2005, 05:10 PM   #12112
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You can also make them by yourself, I'm using glass or A mirror.
It's also flat and I already had it, so it was an easy pick.
The downpoint of glass and A mirror is that it's quite heavy and fragile, so it's not the best pick.
You could also use A thick peace of Lexan, plexiglass, acrylic or maybe even carbonfiber, it's lighter and it's also stronger than te other two.
If you would like to have A real board, companies like Hudy and Integy make some good quality setup boards.
And if you really want something different, McMoney makes custom pitboards!
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Old 03-22-2005, 05:26 AM   #12113
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Default Set Up Boards

Home depot!! Can't go wrong.... nice piece of 1/4" thick floor tile. Many to choose from. And they are flat within .007"!! I checked them myself.. lol..
Wayne
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Old 03-22-2005, 07:03 AM   #12114
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I have a full day of testing coming up tomorrow...to get prepared could someone answer explain, on a 1/12th car, what the following should do:

Front
Camber - More camber will? Less camber will?
Caster - More caster will? Less caster will?
Springs - heavier springs will? Lighter springs?
Toe - More + toe will?

Rear
Shock Oil - Heavier oil will? Lighter oil will?
Shock Spring - Heavier spring will? Lighter spring will?
T-Bar - Thicker t-bar will? Thinner t-bar will?
Damper tubes - Heavier oil will? Lighter oil will?
Side Springs - (if I use them) stiffer will? lighter will?
Currently I'm running a CRC T-Fource. I know some of this stuff from my own experience but want to get others input on setup changes.

Thanks in advance,
Blake
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Old 03-22-2005, 07:42 AM   #12115
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Quote:
Originally posted by JRX-S Bill
With the fixed battery placement (towards the back), this looks to be a mod only car.
You may be right on that. Course you could just use the stock chassis plate if you wanted to run stock although I don't see why you couldn't run the Yokomo chassis plate in stock
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Old 03-22-2005, 07:56 AM   #12116
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Default tuning a t-bar car

Quote:
Originally posted by dr_hfuhuhurr
I have a full day of testing coming up tomorrow...to get prepared could someone answer explain, on a 1/12th car, what the following should do:

Front
Camber - More camber will? Less camber will?
Caster - More caster will? Less caster will?
Springs - heavier springs will? Lighter springs?
Toe - More + toe will?

Rear
Shock Oil - Heavier oil will? Lighter oil will?
Shock Spring - Heavier spring will? Lighter spring will?
T-Bar - Thicker t-bar will? Thinner t-bar will?
Damper tubes - Heavier oil will? Lighter oil will?
Side Springs - (if I use them) stiffer will? lighter will?
Currently I'm running a CRC T-Fource. I know some of this stuff from my own experience but want to get others input on setup changes.

Thanks in advance,
Blake
wow-Blake-you should know 90% of this stuff already!!!

Anyways-here goes a condensed version.

MOre steering (especially cut) is achieved by increasing weight transfer to the front. This is acheived by using heavier shock oil, heavier center spring and a thicker t-bar. Also slight gains can be had by using toe-out for more cut.

MOre steering overall (through corner) is acheived by more camber, more caster (leaned back more) and a softer front spring. less or no front toe out gives more steering on exit.


Now to more specific tuning. Its usually the case that a thinner t-bat gives more forward traction and more rear bite. So for mod or low traction.

HEavier dampening in tubes or damper disc will slow the cars tendency to change direction or add stability in long corners (keep car form dumping over). Less dampening or very thin oil shold conversely help car to quickly transition-but may make car edgy in fast corners.
I dont recall sidesrpings that well-been awhile since I ran my Rev4. I do know I always ran Speedmerchant blue side springs. Orange (softer) made car too planted, whites (harder) made car nervous and twitchy-as I recall.
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Old 03-22-2005, 08:15 AM   #12117
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Thanks Ray,
Yeah, I did know most of that already. Actually had a cheat sheet in my PDA a while ago. I've since lost it...my mind is full with other bits of useless information ("You're mother was a hampster and your father smelt of elderberries!" see).
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Old 03-22-2005, 09:25 AM   #12118
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Default Ref Yokomo Chassis for L4

The car Masami used used the plastic battery trays from the L4 allowing you to have the batteries forward or rear, so the chassis should be good for mod or stock.
Scott
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Old 03-22-2005, 10:00 AM   #12119
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OD, Crashby, Bill, JRRC etc,

I think Bill's original idea will work best to get everyone out to begin with. By that I mean we start out with stock for a few weeks and then see if everyone is liking that we could stick with it or if there is enough interest to go to 19T without killing the stock class then go from there. I think Crashby siad - it's what everyone has- so there will be less equipment issues.

What do you think?

Chris.
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Old 03-22-2005, 10:12 AM   #12120
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Well, with a little inspiration from od, I took my t-bar car apart and went to work with the wiring. Take a look. Once I get a smaller esc, I think I can make it look even better. Here is a link to the picture of the car from the BMI conversion thread.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...postid=1464134
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