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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-20-2005, 08:55 PM   #12091
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I know the oval guys like the reedy 19T quad motor, Andy Barious has a ballistic one.
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Old 03-20-2005, 09:01 PM   #12092
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There's cheatin in stock??? And I thought you guys were just plain good...

Weenie??? I'll just have to punt you when you're lapping me...
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Old 03-20-2005, 09:23 PM   #12093
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Quote:
Originally posted by crimson eagle
I know the oval guys like the reedy 19T quad motor, Andy Barious has a ballistic one.
I don't disagree that the Reedy is a good motor, I'd just like the option of trying the few other ROAR legal motors available.

Bill-
I didn't say there was cheating in stock. And yer not a weenie, I was just trying to get a rise out of you
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Old 03-20-2005, 09:44 PM   #12094
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Quote:
Originally posted by STLNLST
The Reedy 19t rocks. The one's I have played with run like 10 turn mods.
STLNLST: Are you going to come out and run 19T with us?!? That would be outstanding!

Chris: I will run what ever you guy's decide. Just give OD and me enough notice so we can build some motors. The Ground Pounders up in Santa Rosa run 19T 1/12th outdoors. OD and I had a blast last year racing up there. Their rules let you run any 19T. Machine and hand wound. Adjustable and fix timing. They get about 10 to 12 entries each race. We could even maybe get an intra club series going.
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Old 03-20-2005, 09:51 PM   #12095
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whatever works to keep the most guys in there is good with me.

Chris
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Old 03-20-2005, 09:53 PM   #12096
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I really like the idea of 19T. Just a bit more than stock to make it more interesting but not as crazy as mod. But I can run stock if thats what everyone wants to do I have been having a lot of fun with it recently.

Chris.
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Old 03-20-2005, 10:08 PM   #12097
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I would like to run 19t too. I was just thinking about what would bring the most people out.
What Steve said is true, 19t at Ground Pounders last year was great, It would be just as good at Modesto and Ripon.
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Old 03-20-2005, 10:10 PM   #12098
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Quote:
Originally posted by crimson eagle
I really like the idea of 19T. Just a bit more than stock to make it more interesting but not as crazy as mod. But I can run stock if thats what everyone wants to do I have been having a lot of fun with it recently.

Chris.
I guess you have...
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Old 03-20-2005, 10:41 PM   #12099
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Quote:
Originally posted by Crashby
STLNLST: Are you going to come out and run 19T with us?!? That would be outstanding!

Chris: I will run what ever you guy's decide. Just give OD and me enough notice so we can build some motors. The Ground Pounders up in Santa Rosa run 19T 1/12th outdoors. OD and I had a blast last year racing up there. Their rules let you run any 19T. Machine and hand wound. Adjustable and fix timing. They get about 10 to 12 entries each race. We could even maybe get an intra club series going.
I'll be running 19 turn sedan for the up coming points race but for Modesto's outdoor season I'm only running gas sedan. I'm selling my 12th scale.
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Old 03-20-2005, 10:47 PM   #12100
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Quote:
Originally posted by crimson eagle
I really like the idea of 19T. Just a bit more than stock to make it more interesting but not as crazy as mod. But I can run stock if thats what everyone wants to do I have been having a lot of fun with it recently.

Chris.
It wouldn't be that bad to run mod but the thing with mod is everyone seems to think they need major battery to run the class......when really they need to run a milder motor for the batteries they have. Sub 10 turn motors aren't really needed. Give me a 10x3 or 11x3 and I'll be happy being fast for the full 8min.
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Old 03-20-2005, 10:47 PM   #12101
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Quote:
Originally posted by STLNLST
I'm selling my 12th scale.
Will it work in Europe? jk
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Old 03-20-2005, 10:48 PM   #12102
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Quote:
Originally posted by crimson eagle
OD, JRRC, Crashby, Rev, Bill

I think I have most of you there, I was talking to Ruben and the others about the 19T idea. After a little discusion they came around to the idea, they were talking about a spec motor. Charlie says he can get the Reedy 19T quad mag it's supposed to be a fairly decent motor and it would be nice to all run the same thing what do you all think?

I really would like 12th to be a strong asphalt class, it has been so successful indoors, if we can carry it over outside it will only be even stronger when we hit the rug next year.

Chris.
I'm flexible here since I'm new. Please let me know what motors to get ahead of time. All I car about now is the weather, how smooth the asphalt, and some great racing.
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Old 03-21-2005, 01:28 AM   #12103
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I'll do whatever will bring out the most racers. That may be to start with stock (because thats what we are running now) then see if everyone wants to run 19t. Maybe the 19t should become the expert class and stock the sportsman, but I agree that we probably only need one 12th scale class.

The reedy qm 19t is great, but must be geared around 37/100.
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Old 03-21-2005, 04:34 AM   #12104
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Quote:
Originally posted by JLMG1971
Hi all
I was cleanning the 12L4, and doing a major overhaul and discovered a crack on the bottom layer of the chassis, right where the aft left side of the T-plate is.
I know I can still race the car for maybe a couple a races since is only one layer of the carbon fiber, but I think is better to change the chassis. What do you guys recommend, to buy a normal 12L4 or to upgrad to a different chassis, if so which one?
Thanks
Jorge
http://www.team-orion.ch/global/global_news.asp?id=2815 Hey can't go wrong with a world champ...although I hope people will contact them and let them know to offer it as a conversion kit with all those parts together
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Old 03-21-2005, 07:48 AM   #12105
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Originally posted by trackdesigner71
http://www.team-orion.ch/global/global_news.asp?id=2815 Hey can't go wrong with a world champ...although I hope people will contact them and let them know to offer it as a conversion kit with all those parts together
With the fixed battery placement (towards the back), this looks to be a mod only car.
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