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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!


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Old 03-19-2005, 05:32 PM   #12046
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Yep, already popped the stock one - I've got a CRC one on order but until it comes (it's been THREE weeks. . .) I've drilled and tapped the stock one and it's working quite well with a set screw. . . :roll:

Yep, got the fever. It looks like we have 8 1/12th mod cars tonight at SoCal!!! We're working hard to get this class going!

I'll work on the smaller wire - I've got it routed very low (under the brace) right now and it seems to work quite well.
RC10L2.5W - RC12.4 - RCNTC3(bmi) - TC4 (modded) - B44.2 - plus rent-a-rides! :D
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Old 03-19-2005, 06:20 PM   #12047
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lower pod blocks extended or not
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Old 03-19-2005, 07:42 PM   #12048
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you will generally want to run your rear wheels about 2.5mm bigger than your fronts. as this gap closes (rears usually wear faster than fronts) you will find the carr will get more twitchy and difficult to drive - more steering. If the stagger between the front and rear tires is bigger then you will push a little more. recently I have been running purple front and white rear which pushes a little. I let the stagger reduce a little to assist my handling.

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Old 03-19-2005, 08:37 PM   #12049
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Originally posted by goblue38
lower pod blocks extended or not
I wouldn't recommend extended lowered pod plates on a 12th scale. It would make the car too long....in my opinion.
EA Motorsports
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Old 03-19-2005, 08:44 PM   #12050
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Yes extended pod plates will make your car difficult to drive around tight corners.
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Old 03-19-2005, 08:51 PM   #12051
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Originally posted by goblue38
lower pod blocks extended or not
Aren't extended pod plates for oval racing? You want regular plates for 1/12th scale racing.
Constantly evolving CRC WGT and WGT-R/T...Carpet & Asphalt...All thanks to Team CRC.
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Old 03-19-2005, 09:05 PM   #12052
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I have extended pod plates on my Q12. They add about .10" to the wheel base, not a lot. It makes the car 's handling a little more forgiving, but it's not a big difference.
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Old 03-19-2005, 09:08 PM   #12053
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Originally posted by goblue38
lower pod blocks extended or not
Thanks for info was not sure.
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Old 03-19-2005, 10:02 PM   #12054
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hi guys

u guys know where to purchase the yokomo parts for L4 online?

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Old 03-20-2005, 12:11 AM   #12055
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hey guy's, Okay last weekend I finally starting to get a hang of the 12 scale racing.(mainly learning to drive all over again.) Okay I race on a tight, med bit carpet. we run 8min qua and main. we all run stock class( mainly to keep cost down) with a stock club motor. well my question is this does any one have any sudjestion on setting up my 12l4. I purchased this car used already built so i'm still learning. what do you guy's recommend for taping the batteries. ( man what a pain but learning ) I really like this car. I'm the only one at the club with a 12l4, there are a couple of 12l3( maybe just one) everyone is racing crc. so I kinda would like to show them the 12l4 can still win. so if you guy's out the have and pointer for myself don't be shy.
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Old 03-20-2005, 12:22 AM   #12056
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man I just read click me two pages back. lots of cool stuff so ignore what I post up top. unless you have something for me(lol)
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Old 03-20-2005, 12:28 AM   #12057
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you need to finish first lol im one to talk havent finished a main since i qaulifide for the a like two mouths ago
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Old 03-20-2005, 05:44 AM   #12058
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Thumbs up Taping Batteries

The easy way for me in 1/10 scale pan car road course is to cut a piece of tape as long as from the back of the front wheel to the front of the back wheel. Put the tape in with the two ends hanging out, then put in your battereis, and pull the tape tight one end at a time pushing down on the batteries so they can't move once taped in. I add a second layer around the front and back because if you crash that is where the chasis will cut the tape.

I too run a CRC in 1/12.

I have tried all kinds of straps and nothing beats good fiberglass reinforced strapping tape 3/4" wide.

Have Fun
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Old 03-20-2005, 08:57 AM   #12059
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***t fource build***

is the front axle block supposed to be free from the kingpin? mine so tight u have to push it really hard to go through
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Old 03-20-2005, 09:25 AM   #12060
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thats ok, it spins in the arms not the steering block, just take some time to position it correctly when you set up the steering, not too much play but not binding. i had to put 6 washers in each side on mine, I may cut down the kingpin and regroove it but that is a lot of work

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