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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-18-2005, 08:35 AM   #11986
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Going to a smaller spur gear would give you more roll out options. Also if you go to a smaller spur gear you would want to go to a smaller pinion because you have to try to keep the gear ratio the same. For example if you had a 100 tooth spur and a 25 tooth pinion you would be geared at 4:1, if you went down to a 96 tooth spur you would need run a 24 tooth pinion to still have a 4:1 ratio. Hope this helps.
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Old 03-18-2005, 08:42 AM   #11987
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but there is also car performance to think about when changing spurs. The way I understand it, the furthur toward the front of the car the motor is, the lest unsprung weight there is. because the motor weight is closer to the pivot point of the rear pod. if I remember, that means less initial steering.
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Old 03-18-2005, 08:47 AM   #11988
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Would a smaller spur also affect acceleration?
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Old 03-18-2005, 08:49 AM   #11989
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Not really, if its geared correctly it shouldn't be any different from any other spur gears.
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Old 03-18-2005, 09:12 AM   #11990
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Thanks for the input guys.

I have a new L4 that has been sitting on the shelf since last fall. It is my first pan car and it hasn't seen a track yet. With warmer weather approaching, I'm finally going to get a chance to run it. We race on an outdoor asphalt track.

I'm told that the L4 diff also acts as a slipper. Seems to me that the diff shouldn't be allowed to slip. What is your understanding on how tight the diff should be?
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Old 03-18-2005, 10:04 AM   #11991
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Smaller Spur/Pinion does affect efficiency - larger = better efficiency which is why we don't use 20 tooth spur gears!

my diff doesn't slip hardly at all - I tighten it until it doesn't. The way I check it is to hold both wheels and take my thumb and try and slip the spur - it should slip slightly and only with pressure. This guarantees that it isn't binding and putting overmuch pressure on the balls but is tight enough to not slip under acceleration.
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Old 03-18-2005, 10:43 AM   #11992
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New to 12th scale.

Do you figure rollout from the front or rear tire?

Thanks
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Old 03-18-2005, 10:53 AM   #11993
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Quote:
Originally posted by SRW141
New to 12th scale.

Do you figure rollout from the front or rear tire?

Thanks
Rollout is calculated from the rear tire diameter.
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Old 03-18-2005, 10:56 AM   #11994
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Quote:
Originally posted by mudpuppy
Thanks for the input guys.

I have a new L4 that has been sitting on the shelf since last fall. It is my first pan car and it hasn't seen a track yet. With warmer weather approaching, I'm finally going to get a chance to run it. We race on an outdoor asphalt track.

I'm told that the L4 diff also acts as a slipper. Seems to me that the diff shouldn't be allowed to slip. What is your understanding on how tight the diff should be?
My .02

i slip mine as track/traction conditions dictate

i have run carpet were i set my diff as "boomer" states above. however depending on your track conditions the diff adjustment can be a useful tuning tool, especially on slick asphalt tracks.

example or local Hobbytown asphalt track is a banked ovalroadcourse combo with a offroad track nearby. the driverstand separates the two. they blow it (no sugar waters, soda spray, VHT) off prior to the race that's it. in fact both are raced on the sameday.

on this track we haven't been able to run mod motors even 19T's
have problems. the rear ends won't stay planted, no matter what set-up you use on the car. after a lot of testing, we ended up running stock. most of us run 88T/31P spurs (gearing is to bogg the motor down and smooth out the cars acceleration), PU frts, PK or GY rears. and 90% of us adjust our diffs to slip (both an old school thing). my set-up has about a 2-3ft slip before it takes. after one or two laps it heats up and slips less. the cars make 8min no problem in this config.

i use carbide diff balls and change the plates about every two weeks. running outdoors you would probably have to do this anyway.

5 different racers have asked me to try their cars. after just running the first ten feet i bring back, check it, readjust their diffs to my style setting, i don't even do a lap, hand them the controller and say now try it. they look puzzled and after one lap ask what did you do. i tell them and they say " I was told the diff shouldn't be allowed to slip"

what alway's really gets me though is with the modern day radios and the adjustments. you should be able to set the radio/car acceleration rates/EXPs/curves/delays so you wouldn't have to do the above things.

after asking people what their settings, etc. i am always amazed...they don't know and sometimes are vague on how to work/set the controller. once they have it basically set-up to RUN they don't want to mess with it. (sort like the VCR thing ) 90% of the people i have helped in 12th have never really read, used, or understand all the options on their radios. in the last 2 years of 12th racing here we have lost more racers due to this, i beleive than anything else. i couldn't drive their cars with steering at 150% and who knows what else settings. move the wheel an 1/8" and they car does a near u-turn. they will work the set-up to death. or blame it on something else..... but not touch that radio.

i currnetly use a 1989 KO EX-1 AM radio and have a new KO EX10 Helios on order. i will see if there still will be a need to slip at our slick track.

Last edited by fast-ho-cars; 03-18-2005 at 11:20 AM.
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Old 03-18-2005, 10:56 AM   #11995
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I was into R/C for years and am returning after a 10 year break. I have an old 80's vintage 1/12 Schumacher C-Car.
I am trying to restore it and need some 1/12 scale donuts.
Does anyone know where I can get them.
Does anyone have ant bits lying around for these??
Smooth roads dudes..
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Old 03-18-2005, 11:09 AM   #11996
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Quote:
Originally posted by picco007
OD,

What is the OD of the castle creations 16g. wire?

Seriously

That would be interesting.
Wire diameter is a little hard to measure since most wire isn't quite round, but the measurements I come up with are: Castle Creations 16ga- 2.4mm and the 16ga I get from Cheap Battery Packs .com is 3.2mm.

BTW, I've stripped and compared them both, and they have the same amount of wire under the jacket. The CC wire is 259 count which is very good, the CBP wire looks about the same, but I couldn't find specs on it.
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Old 03-18-2005, 11:11 AM   #11997
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I counted...they are both 258 strands jk.
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Old 03-18-2005, 11:13 AM   #11998
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Quote:
Originally posted by dr_hfuhuhurr
I counted...they are both 258 strands jk.
Not 259??!!? You bin robbed!!
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Old 03-18-2005, 01:01 PM   #11999
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I find that you can get away using 18gauge wire in your 12th scales. It's all I use in mine. I was just using 18gauge wire in my T-FOURCE with a 19 turn, and didn't notice any lose of power.
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Old 03-18-2005, 01:06 PM   #12000
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Lazyeh,

you are getting into serious voltage drop territory there, 16ga has twice the drop of 12ga (yes I measured it) 18ga is really small, maybe 2.5 times more drop than 12ga. As I recall over 2.5 inches 16ga lost 0.14v 12ga was only 0.07v. This was measured at 30A.

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