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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 07-30-2002, 09:06 AM   #1186
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Boomer- If you're talking about the Kawada I would say the following:

1. Chassis Plate (does not narrow as much as L3 it appears which should = more rigidity)

2. Metal Left Motor Side Plate (=more rigid motor pod)

3. Uses Caster Shims (no need for gauge). This allows for the caster adjustment on the top arms to be used in compensating for differences in the caster block molds tolerances (left to right). As a result the car will not be "tweaked" due to one block giving 4deg caster and the other giving 6deg.

4. Looks like a thin diameter right side hub spacer (may lower rotating mass)

5. Looks like the left side of the top motor plate uses 2-3 screws to set it (could offer more rigidity and a straighter alignment)

Also looks like this car uses 3 screws in each front lower arm but I'm not sure if that is really neccessary since the Assoc. is pretty strong with just two screws.
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Old 07-30-2002, 11:52 AM   #1187
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Hello everyone,
My tyres have become very soft & are starting to brake,i have 3 pairs and use each one once,twice at the most but im racing 3 times a week,Is there any thing i could do to harden them up,ive heard of using rubbing alchohol but caint find any at my local shops,would methalated spirits do the trick,also i was wondering if to leave them out side in the sun to try and sweat the tire addertives out and then put them some where cold????
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Old 07-30-2002, 10:09 PM   #1188
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Stevie- Denatured Rubbing Alcohol is best but very close to it is Motor Spray and after that Lighter Fluid works also. For the Motor Spray you must wipe it off almost as soon as you get it on the entire tire with a good cloth and you will see all of the grime come off. Then I would repeat. If you are going to run the tires again that day let them sit. If you are not going to run them again that same day you can spray them again and just let it soak into the tire and air dry. For the Lighter fluid you do the same as the motor spray but because lighter fluid has some oil in it you really need to let it sit overnight and dry out after you wipe the tire off. Hope this helps.
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Old 07-30-2002, 10:18 PM   #1189
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hey dave, ustc oktoberfast at tchr still in the cards?

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Old 07-30-2002, 11:42 PM   #1190
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Shrek- Good to hear from you. The answer is "Lord willing and the creek doesn't rise" I plan on being there. How are things going with you?
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Old 07-31-2002, 06:44 PM   #1191
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Batteries charged...and didnt get to race....what do i have to do??????Hope to get in a race before the Regionals in Houston next month...would like to race my Knife at least once before i go!!!!!!
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Old 07-31-2002, 09:58 PM   #1192
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Reactive Castor?

Hi all,
Very bad traction on tuesday night whilst I was trying out my kawada. Lots of fine sand on the track

I was testing the reactive castor (i think) up on the front suspension. Seems like with -5 degree block, the car tends to over steer on entry to the corner. Without reactive castor, the car is quite drivable, quite neutral. With the +5 degree block (front arms tilted back) the car tended to have oversteer out of the corner.

Is this what I'm supposed to feel from changing the castor blocks? Thanks!!!

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Old 08-01-2002, 03:27 PM   #1193
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Ohhhhh "Tiger" Arnold.....word on the street is that you are faking your hurt shoulder b/c you were getting beat by the other Arnold. I heard that you threw yourself down on the ground to make it look like you were in pain but that its all b/c you cant beat the better Arnold Would you like to respond to these aligations(sp)????????
2013 USVTA World Champion of the World
MOTIV RC presents the Midwest All-Star Carpet Series....15th year running 2017/18!!!
USVTA National Championship....check it out!!!
Im only responsible for what I say NOT what you understand.
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Old 08-01-2002, 09:59 PM   #1194
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Default Gearing for stock

Can anyone out there give me a good starting point for a Trinity Switchblade Worlds 1/12 running a stock motor. I'll be running 64P on a technical ashpalt track.

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Old 08-01-2002, 10:21 PM   #1195
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I run my CRC around 28-32/96 depending on track layout
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Old 08-03-2002, 12:15 AM   #1196
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Kev- Ohh boy.... Well you know considering that I still bench near 300lbs I figured the only way to fake my injury was by actually hurting myself and then throwing myself on the ground and rolling around. Must have worked because James bought it and I got out of the round that I had just gone 1 up (lower) than James, LOL, hehhehe. You've been talking to that wonderfully whacky Jucha again haven't ya????LOL BTW, you, Juch's, Rob and myself are supposed to be going up to Trackside next Sunday to practice. We've been hearing that you've been running pretty fast again. Rob's 12th car was working pretty well after some adjustments last night and Juch's got his Schuey dialed in on a foam setup.

Alvin- Actually if I'm not mistaken the postive castor block gives you reactive castor that decreases it's castor as the front compresses (going into corners) and thus more turn in but as the car exits and the front end raises it will increase castor giving you more on throttle steering. The negative blocks should give the opposite and it sounds like that is what's happening to you.

Basically with the negative castor block the front end will move from negative to postive castor as the front end compresses going into the corner and thus "less" steering.

Once you come out of the corner the front end starts to raise and it changes the castor back to negative making the car "push" on throttle. BTW the zero castor block = no reactive castor either way. For asphalt racing I've heard that no reactive castor may be best and actually we decrease the normal amount of reactive castor that we use on the Trinity car for carpet. I've been told that too much reactive can kill some corner speed but this seems to be a point of debate so who knows.

Craig C- If you mean suspension setups check out pages 18-24 of this thread along with the page before this one and you will find a wealth of setup info for your car.
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Old 08-03-2002, 12:31 AM   #1197
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Kev- BTW, Jucha's going to beat you over the head with James wet TC3 noodle and you're going to like it and I'm going to tell everyone on this tread. LOL, LOL, hehehehe!!!!

Alvin- quick clarification (yeah right, coming from me???), with the negative castor block in your car will steer "less" as the suspension compresses (going into a corner). The reason why it steers "more" than with the positive blocks is due to all of the negative castor that you are starting out with. Reactive Castor typically changes about 2deg. So with the -5deg blocks in you are going to -3deg castor which will still give more turn in than +3deg castor that you go down to with the +5deg blocks. With the negative castor blocks when you come out of the corner and the front end starts to uncompress (raise) you go back to the -5deg castor which isn't as much on throttle steering as +5deg castor with the positive castor blocks. This is why you are experiencing the extremes that you are. Remember less castor at less throttle = more steering and more castor at more throttle = more steering but less castor at more throttle =less steering and more castor at less throttle = less steering. So when you have sweepers where you are going at a good rate of speed through you want more castor and when you have to slow down for hair pins and other tight corners you want less castor. That's why reactive castor works because with the positive castor blocks in you will get less castor when you slow down for tight corners (suspension compresses) which equals more steering and you will get more castor coming out of the corners or through fast sweepers (suspension uncompresses) which equals more steering in those instances. I think your negative castor blocks give you an unusual option that once in a great while could be an advantage but in most cases you won't want to use them. If you have too much steering coming out of the corners you can put in less static castor or use harder front springs or less tire traction on the front tires.
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Old 08-03-2002, 09:51 AM   #1198
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Thanks for the excellent clarification I'm gonna run my 12th tommorrow, I'll keep your info in mind In fact i've already swapped the castor blocks to the 0 degree ones, and will take try the other blocks at the track!

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Old 08-03-2002, 11:09 PM   #1199
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Default Question for SP12G3 owners

I am wondering if it is possible to mount shocks/damper posts on the SP12G3, like say the CRC Carpet knife.

My manual has this option:

6.4 SP10V/VN Shock Absorber set (#75591). This set allows you to fit two oil filled dampers to the rear suspension for added help over the bumps.

Wondering if this is for the 1/10 scale pan cars or for my SP12G3! Thanks!

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Old 08-03-2002, 11:11 PM   #1200
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I know this is a 12 scale forum but heres a nice pic of haras pan car
Attached Images
File Type: jpeg hara pan car.jpeg (60.1 KB, 478 views)
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