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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-03-2001, 09:18 AM   #106
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6-cell stock is sickeningly fast. 6-cell mod is basically uncontrollable. =P

I personally run 4-cell stock. Easier to drive, but makes you raelly focus on your lines since the car reacts SO quickly, especially with the lighter weight.
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Old 10-03-2001, 09:24 AM   #107
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Quote:
Originally posted by dtm


hehe... you are tempting me back into 1/12 There were a couple of 6 cell 1/12 at PYC last night I had some FUN time chasing them with my Xray... they were not slow!!!
why not 1/12 is always fun. and I understand that you are telling that your xray is very fast
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Old 10-03-2001, 09:53 AM   #108
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FYI-At the Last Florida State Series Race the top 6 cell Stock 1/12th drivers were turning 10.6-10.8 sec laps. In Mod Sedan the same drivers were turning 11.5-11.9's. Note that these drivers are full 100% Factory Pros. Yeah, 1/12th Stock is fast!

I really think that we should go 4 cell in all the pan classes 1/12 and 1/10. 4 cell Stock 1/12 and 1/10 is as fast as stock sedan. 4 cell Mod is faster than sedan Mod. 6 cell stock is way too fast for a lot of people. You end up with broken cars and frustrated drivers. 6 cell Mod is a liability problem. The speeds that 6 cell Mod 1/10th cars hit in a 4 min race are on par with Modified Nitro 1/8th 4wd Pan Cars! I've seen Mod 1/10th cars go over 55mph in a short straight catch and impact a concrete wall 4 feet over spectators heads. VERY Dangerous!
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Old 10-03-2001, 09:53 AM   #109
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yesyes...i agree....with stock motor and its that fast already...really tempting!
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Old 10-03-2001, 09:55 AM   #110
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hehe..i just have 4 cell lying around...i could try and play with thos!
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Old 10-03-2001, 11:12 AM   #111
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Quote:
Originally posted by AdrianM
FYI-At the Last Florida State Series Race the top 6 cell Stock 1/12th drivers were turning 10.6-10.8 sec laps. In Mod Sedan the same drivers were turning 11.5-11.9's. Note that these drivers are full 100% Factory Pros. Yeah, 1/12th Stock is fast!

I really think that we should go 4 cell in all the pan classes 1/12 and 1/10. 4 cell Stock 1/12 and 1/10 is as fast as stock sedan. 4 cell Mod is faster than sedan Mod. 6 cell stock is way too fast for a lot of people. You end up with broken cars and frustrated drivers. 6 cell Mod is a liability problem. The speeds that 6 cell Mod 1/10th cars hit in a 4 min race are on par with Modified Nitro 1/8th 4wd Pan Cars! I've seen Mod 1/10th cars go over 55mph in a short straight catch and impact a concrete wall 4 feet over spectators heads. VERY Dangerous!

No kidding... Down in Texas we were running 6 cell modified 1/12ths on a big track and we were easily outrunning the big Serpent cars by a couple of laps in qualifiers. IF you don't have to go 8 minutes, a six cell mod 1/12 car can get scary fast.

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Old 10-03-2001, 02:03 PM   #112
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Default tire gluing?

What is the best glue to glue tires? We used to use rubber cement a long time ago, but is there some new and superior product on the market now? I had been buying premounted tires, but I got a good deal on a bunch of unmounted stuff and a tire truer, so I'm going to start doing them myself again.
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Old 10-03-2001, 03:21 PM   #113
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Cosmo,

Trinity sells tire glue under the TRC brand name. I just bought a can and haven't tried it yet, but it looks similar to the old AJ's Tire Glue, which was the best, IMHO.

If you want to check it out, go to Horizon's website and look for it under "Total Racing Connection" in their brands list.

If you can't find any, rubber cement is alright, but I personally never liked it myself.
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Old 10-03-2001, 03:45 PM   #114
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I understand that the 12L3 kit comes with 48 pitch gears and green compound tires. Are those parts usable for practice and getting used to the car? I've been told my some 12L3 drivers to switch to 64 pitch and the purple/grey tire combo.
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Old 10-03-2001, 03:52 PM   #115
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coolrcdad-
The green compound tires will work fine for practice and even for racing, but they're not going to last long at all. The other compunds you mention will work better in most cases and last longer. You don't need to switch to 64 pitch gears right away if you've already got a bunch of 48 pitch pinions. If you're going to be buying gears, you may as well go to 64 pitch, they are a bit more efficient.

cosmo-
Any good contact cement will do a good job. The TRC glue is great, as was the old AJ's glue. We used to use 3M super weatherstrip ("gorilla snot") as well.

The easiest way to mount foams is to coat the rim and the inside of the tire with contact cement, let dry, then dunk the tire quickly in lacquer thinner and slide it onto the rim in one quick movement.

Kimbrough made a product called "tire horns" which made the process easier, it was a cone shaped plastic piece that sat on the rim and helped the tire slide right on. They are still available, but I don't know the part number offhand.

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Old 10-03-2001, 04:08 PM   #116
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Default Cyano? why not?

That's what we use for Pro 10 tires.

Mount them on the rim and put some on the inner part of the wheel/tire.

Then open the tire with a screw driver and pour some cyano going with the screwdriver around the rim to open a gap. Thin cyano will flow. Removing the screwdriver just spreads the liquid cyano to the rest of the tire.

That's what I do with the much larger Pro 10 rear and front wheels.

Never got an unglued tire. No thinner and no tire ballooning. I've seen it happen with contact glue just in the middle of the rim/tire.

About the green compound Jaco tires that come with the RC12L3:

They are perfectly good. For practicing and racing (on carpet at least).
I moved to lower wear compounds just because it was very difficult to find Jaco mounted tires around here and the less they wear the less I have to think of buying more.

BTW, did any of you ever run Pro 10?

It's kinda like 1/12 with enhanced handling on big tracks and a very good way to embarass the 1/8 nitro guys

To bad it's almost dead. Some people say that the last World Championship was the win that Masami won at Yatabe...

Still strong in Europe with the only maker of Pro 1/10 models (Corally).

Trinity let go the Switchblade, Associated now only makes the narrow version and Yokomo has a very difficult car to get.
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Old 10-03-2001, 07:14 PM   #117
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Well, in my opinion, the reason touring cars took off is beacuse they look like real cars. Every day I see a Stratus or an Accord. I can't remember the last time I saw a Lola or a GT1. I think the "touring pan car" is good idea. There is a class for them at our track, and it is becoming very popular. I'm thinking about getting the CRC Pantoura before next season. It combines the best of both worlds - the speed of pan cars with the realism of touring cars.

Anyways, I just got my Carpet Knife today, and I have a few questions...

1. What oil do you recommend for the shock? I race on a slick track so I was thinking 25 or 30.
2. The side dampner tubes call for Losi Hydra Fluid as a dampner. I can't find that around here. Can I use some shock oil?
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Old 10-03-2001, 09:16 PM   #118
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Cosmo,

Shock oil won't do it for the damper tubes. If you can't find Losi Hydra Drive fluid, you can order it from Horizon, or better yet get your local shop to order you some. A bottle of the light and a botle of the medium will be enough to get you through a season.
Start with 30 in the shock.

antoniop-
I raced pro-10's back in '95. Easily my favorite class at the time. I raced a 10L, then a prototype Calandra/Speedmerchant car that I raced at the '95 Roar nats. I'd ahve put that car solidly in the A but in the one qualifying run I got that wasn'/t rained out I "got together" with Barry Baker and my car wound up off the track and underneath some bleachers. The car looked almost the same as the CRC Pantoura, only it was full width, not narrow. GREAT car, but never made it into production. Pro-10 is pretty much dead here in the U.S. at this point.

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Old 10-03-2001, 09:50 PM   #119
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Cosmo

I definitely agree with Trips on the hydra fluid. It has the consistancy of syrup. It's not just viscous, it's sticky so it makes the damper tubes really smooth and you don't have to worry about oil oozing all over the place. A bottle was ~$5 from my lhs, so just buy a few and you'll have enough for a long time.
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Old 10-04-2001, 08:49 AM   #120
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What about diff fluid? Our LHS doesn't carry anything Losi at all. I have some Mugen diff fluid (50,000 and 100,000 wt.) from when I was racing a MTX-2. Will that work? I guess I can mail order some if I need to, but we are racing this weekend and I hoped to get this thing running buy then.
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