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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-17-2005, 12:31 PM   #11956
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Quote:
Originally posted by odpurple
Same idea on a Hara car.
How do you keep the wires in place? Are they glued somehow?

Blake
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Old 03-17-2005, 12:40 PM   #11957
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Quote:
Originally posted by dr_hfuhuhurr
How do you keep the wires in place? Are they glued somehow?

Blake
They are glued with shoo goo and ca just where they go under the batteries. That's just for insurance since they are captured by the batteries when they are in place.
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Old 03-17-2005, 01:01 PM   #11958
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Quote:
Originally posted by odpurple
That's why I run them down the center. With center routing, the wires only have to twist a little right near the pivot ball as the pod moves. With 1-2 cell routing you would need to add a loop or some length to keep the wires from restricting pod movement.

I'm going to center-wire the L4 I'm building right now. I plan to shrink wrap the wires to the t-bar brace, then they will go around the center damper brace post, then turn 90 deg toward the motor. This isn't my car so the wires will make a little loop up to the top motor lugs, if it were my own car, the wires would go straight to the bottom lugs, like on my link cars.
I am just about through reassembling my Yokomo 1/12th and building a new Trinity Reflex 12 and I shrunk wrapped the two wires to the T bar brace. It works really well. I don't have any pictures yet but it provides the same functionality as OD's pictures of the Speed Merchant car and the Hara car that he posted. It keeps the wires directly in line with the pivot points of the motor pod. The only real difference would be that on the link cars or the Hara cars the wires are at their lowest for CG. Shrunk wrapped to the T bar brace does raise the center gravity more but its minuscule due to the weight of the Castle Creations 16ga wire.
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Old 03-17-2005, 01:01 PM   #11959
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You da man OD

James,

I'll check the schedules when I get home and post then, also Ruben may of updated the Stockton website by now.

Chris
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Old 03-17-2005, 01:04 PM   #11960
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Crashby,

How are you doing with your other new toy?

I cycled some 3700's last night..... Daddy like.

Chris
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Old 03-17-2005, 03:17 PM   #11961
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Quote:
Originally posted by crimson eagle
Crashby,

How are you doing with your other new toy?

I cycled some 3700's last night..... Daddy like.

Chris
I donít know. Let's ask OD. Hey... OD! How are you coming with my 950R?!?

Actually, I am waiting on some optional parts and ceramic bearings before he can get started on it.

On another subject: I used the new Pro-Trak charger up at the Ground Pounderís race two weekends ago and it worked awesome!! It even got some packs into the 4300 capacity range!! No problems dumping in mod 1/12th now. Who needs 3700's?!? HA!!
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Old 03-17-2005, 04:05 PM   #11962
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Good job Crashby,

yes 4300 is not unheard of as long as you equalise thoroughly. Interestingly I'm not getting any more into the 3700's but I am getting a lot more out (450 seconds run time). You are not the only one to feel the extra run time, the mod oval guys love that too. I'll be doing a second cycle on the 37's tonight, from what I understand run time may increase.

Does shring wrapping the wires to that brace make it more difficult to do maintenance like changing out the t-bar?

Chris
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Old 03-17-2005, 04:15 PM   #11963
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Quote:
Originally posted by crimson eagle
Good job Crashby,

yes 4300 is not unheard of as long as you equalise thoroughly. Interestingly I'm not getting any more into the 3700's but I am getting a lot more out (450 seconds run time). You are not the only one to feel the extra run time, the mod oval guys love that too. I'll be doing a second cycle on the 37's tonight, from what I understand run time may increase.

Does shring wrapping the wires to that brace make it more difficult to do maintenance like changing out the t-bar?

Chris
I don't change T bars. No. It's not because I don't break any. It's because I use spring steel T bars. But it should not be an issue. The T bar brace would remain attached to the wires and you would only have to ensure that the rear post would go between the wires upon reassembly. Pretty easy really.
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Old 03-17-2005, 05:25 PM   #11964
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Chris,

I had to change my L4 tbar and its not much different. I tie wrapped the wire to the brace. If OD is shrink wrapping I may have to do that also.
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Old 03-17-2005, 06:00 PM   #11965
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Quote:
Originally posted by jrrc
If OD is shrink wrapping I may have to do that also.
let me get you some of the team purple stripe shrink wrap first
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Old 03-17-2005, 06:58 PM   #11966
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Default 12L4

Any 12L4 masters when installing the rear diff and axle the instructions say to use 3 shims right and 3 shims left. But I notice that my left wheel is rubbing the pod. The only way to fix even after adding four shims right and four shims left is to have slight slack by moving the hub clamp over to the left slightly to clear the pod. My concern is the play from left to right or side to side on the rear end. please help
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Old 03-17-2005, 07:03 PM   #11967
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depending on the wheels you use you may have to sand down the left side of the lower pod plate. I am using trc and the offset of the wheel require that you sand the rear lower pod plate down.
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Old 03-17-2005, 07:46 PM   #11968
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Yes your wheels may be offset, rather than blindly putting in spacers on both sides, space out the left side until it clears then match the other side's distance from the centerling of the car, if the amount of spacing is different, that's fine. You want to be about a total of 170mm wide or slightly under.

Chris.
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Old 03-17-2005, 07:54 PM   #11969
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Quote:
Originally posted by theisgroup
just dremeled the pod slightly works great thanyk you.
depending on the wheels you use you may have to sand down the left side of the lower pod plate. I am using trc and the offset of the wheel require that you sand the rear lower pod plate down.
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Old 03-17-2005, 08:06 PM   #11970
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Default Asphalt

Anyone have a good set up for medium bite asphalt fresh laid recently. Indoor
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