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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 03-15-2005, 08:56 AM   #11881
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Right at the moment, I have a list that goes.

CRC Centre Spring Kit
CRC Side Spring Kit
0.18" springs for the front
Damper Lube, Light and Heavy
98,100, and 96 Spurs
Tyre wise, I'm waiting to see what comes with the car, otherwise I'll get a set of purple fronts and grey rears (probably CRC or Jaco's)
Bodyshell, Parma speed8

Anything else? I noticed the front ride height spacers too, are these a requirement?
And what about damper oil for the VCS shock? the starting sheet suggests 35wt oil, I have 30, 40, 50 and 60 in my pit box... any suggestions?

Originally posted by David Root

In my opinion, the best tuning aids are a complete assortment of center shock springs from CRC. These seem to change the handling of the car more than anything else. Stiffer spring, more steering. Softer center spring, more rear traction. Its a balance thing. Stiffer center spring more HIGH SPEED steering.

All I use are red side springs. Whites are what come with the kit. I recomend buying the whole kit for the $6.00 and trying the stiffest and the softest so you can see how they affect the car then you will know which way to go when you want a different driving car. This is for both side and center springs. Front springs .018 or .020 will probably take care of most of your needs.

Details count in 1/12. Learn to set the tweak. Be sure you can set your toe. I set camber so the tires wear even and leave it at that. I use the old skool front end, but I am not an expert driver, so this is just advice. I have no trouble with any spur, but I use a 98 or 100. With new untrued tires, I would start with a 25 or 26 pinion. I run a rollout in the low 40s on a medium to large track.

Most of all
Have fun
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Old 03-15-2005, 09:03 AM   #11882
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This has prolly been asked before, but I can't be arsed to check back the 390+ pages

What is used to prevent the tires from chunking? Super glue or contact cement?
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Old 03-15-2005, 09:25 AM   #11883
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Hi Bill,

Next time you see me can I take a look at that pod plate? I changed mine at the weekend too, my motor side plate looked like a banana. Seemed like my drive train freed up a little when I changed it I know I had to realign my rear pod to compensate.

Och Eaye the Noo.

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Old 03-15-2005, 09:51 AM   #11884
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Originally posted by HappyHippo
Any body know witch parts and from who that are on Mike Blackstock's car in the rear on the left side and top plate,

IRS is going to come out with something like that it might be a proto part they are working on.
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Old 03-15-2005, 09:56 AM   #11885
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the bmi conversion has the 2 mount on the left side of the pod plate also.
yang lai

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Old 03-15-2005, 12:50 PM   #11886
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Originally posted by Jan Larsen What is used to prevent the tires from chunking? Super glue or contact cement?

Put a thin bead of thick CA (thin works too-just harder to use-easier to go "oops") right on the rim and just above it onto the foam.

If you dont go too high on the sidewall-you wont affect handling.

Also-this is not a one time fix-all for chunking. AFter a few runs-the CA can crack-or hitting boards can peel it off-so check it often and reapply CA when needed.

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Old 03-15-2005, 01:31 PM   #11887
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Anyone try rubber cement yet????
I still lurk....
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Old 03-15-2005, 02:43 PM   #11888
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Originally posted by Jan Larsen
This has prolly been asked before, but I can't be arsed to check back the 390+ pages

What is used to prevent the tires from chunking? Super glue or contact cement?
Use the super glue on the sidewalls like Ray said to prevent chunking, and use contact cement to repair any chunking. The only thing that sucks is trying to find your chunk on the track, lol
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Old 03-15-2005, 03:22 PM   #11889
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When is it appropriate to start using different size spur gears other than 100t?
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Old 03-15-2005, 03:32 PM   #11890
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Originally posted by revzalot
When is it appropriate to start using different size spur gears other than 100t?
I use 96t right now. I run on a very small track, but i think sticking with 100t overall is just a good spur any track.
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Old 03-15-2005, 03:39 PM   #11891
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I like using a 98 tooth spur...more pinion options if your tires are getting smaller (than a 100)
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Old 03-15-2005, 04:03 PM   #11892
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Default spur gear size

I always felt spur gear size was related to car handeling... By changing from an 88 to an 100 and maintaining the same ratio... The car will handle different. The reason being is the position of the motor in relationship to the rear axle.
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Old 03-15-2005, 04:43 PM   #11893
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I just got a 12L4. This is the 1st time I have ever built 12th scale shocks. Do you fill up the oil and let it come out when putting it together?
Steve Walter
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Old 03-15-2005, 05:59 PM   #11894
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YOKOMO released their original parts for RC12L4.

Here is translated link.

Kimihiko Yano
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Old 03-15-2005, 06:05 PM   #11895
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Originally posted by kiyano
YOKOMO released their original parts for RC12L4.

Here is translated link.

Kyano what's SP-4335Y for T bar? Where can I order the parts in the US?
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