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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-14-2005, 06:33 PM   #11866
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cool, thanks for the quick reply.
ANy suggestions on what make of spur to use? I'm currently using Xenon's in my 415... are they decent for 12th? or is there another make that would be better?

Also I read earlier someone mentioning about damper tube fluid, am I best off getting the stuff off the CRC site? or using another make?

And anything else you could possibly think off I might need? like tuning springs / spares etc? I read somewhere (i think again from the CRC site) about having different springs for the front (0.18" ?!) and same for the rear tweak and shock springs (reds /whites etc?)

I'm just trying to get myself sorted for the car...don't want to be left at the track without a spare/tuning option I might need (and yes I am that pedantic! )

Later,
Ed
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Old 03-14-2005, 06:36 PM   #11867
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Wannabee...
I never saw a production one out of aluminum.... I made some for the local guys at my track.... but never saw anybody sell one... That's why the BMI one is made with a locator pin and 2 screws to hold it in place
Wayne
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Old 03-14-2005, 06:38 PM   #11868
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Thanks Wayne, a guy down here had one too, not sure where the H he got it!


Quote:
Originally posted by sg1
Wannabee...
I never saw a production one out of aluminum.... I made some for the local guys at my track.... but never saw anybody sell one... That's why the BMI one is made with a locator pin and 2 screws to hold it in place
Wayne
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Old 03-14-2005, 07:01 PM   #11869
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Wannabee,
Take an old aluminum tube, like the ones assoc. used to use between the front a-arms, and cut it to size with a dremel and cut off wheel... That will get you close... Then retap the one side if needed... You can also find other stand offs... like the ones on the assoc. oval car...
Wayne
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Old 03-14-2005, 07:02 PM   #11870
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Quote:
Originally posted by sg1
Wannabee,
Take an old aluminum tube, like the ones assoc. used to use between the front a-arms, and cut it to size with a dremel and cut off wheel... That will get you close... Then retap the one side if needed... You can also find other stand offs... like the ones on the assoc. oval car...
Wayne
Thanks! I was thinking that would work!
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Old 03-14-2005, 07:44 PM   #11871
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TryHard,

In my opinion, the best tuning aids are a complete assortment of center shock springs from CRC. These seem to change the handling of the car more than anything else. Stiffer spring, more steering. Softer center spring, more rear traction. Its a balance thing. Stiffer center spring more HIGH SPEED steering.

All I use are red side springs. Whites are what come with the kit. I recomend buying the whole kit for the $6.00 and trying the stiffest and the softest so you can see how they affect the car then you will know which way to go when you want a different driving car. This is for both side and center springs. Front springs .018 or .020 will probably take care of most of your needs.

Details count in 1/12. Learn to set the tweak. Be sure you can set your toe. I set camber so the tires wear even and leave it at that. I use the old skool front end, but I am not an expert driver, so this is just advice. I have no trouble with any spur, but I use a 98 or 100. With new untrued tires, I would start with a 25 or 26 pinion. I run a rollout in the low 40s on a medium to large track.

Most of all
Have fun
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Old 03-14-2005, 09:12 PM   #11872
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Quote:
Originally posted by crimson eagle
Hi Bill,

4th place, good job dude you qualified a bit further back as I recall.

Chris (the choker)
Fast Chris,

My car was killer with all the help from you, Charlie and Dino. Thanks for all that.

Still have to work to elevate my driving. That takes time and I look forward to the learning process...Even if it is a long one.

What choke? YOU WERE ABSOLUTELY KILLER with your TQ; but, that first lap mixup let Jim get totally away from you and Charlie. After that accident, I found myself in last place; but, got back up to fourth by the end of the run. Even passed some that I consider better than myself. I was in learning mode all the time; so, I'm totally happy with the race.
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Old 03-14-2005, 09:23 PM   #11873
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Quote:
Originally posted by revzalot
Bill great job. Were there lots of entries? Was the track very technical or free flowing?
There were 16 entries in 12th stock and the "big boys" were all there for most of it. Not sure what happened to Dino, Gus and Jaime on Sunday.

The difficulty of the track for me was that there were challenging sections at both ends. When I stood at either end of the stand, the other end of the track would be overly challenging. Being in the middle of the stand was certainly the compromise position; but, didn't yield my quickest laps.

Interesting that the pros always seemed to stand at the opposite end of the stand that I found myself needing to be at.

Loved seeing all the mod cars (1/12th and TC) really rip down the loooooong back straight.
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Last edited by JRX-S Bill; 03-14-2005 at 09:30 PM.
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Old 03-14-2005, 11:12 PM   #11874
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Hi Bill,

4th from last too, thats really great. You must of got a little back to what we seen the previous week when you were flying. I can see you are right there for stepping up to the next level.

Yes it wasn't my favorite layout but when your car is handling well any track is a good track.

Yes watching Matt Francis and Barry baker tear it up down that back straight was quite breath taking.

Will you be around for the last race of the year in a couple of weeks time?

Chris.
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Old 03-14-2005, 11:35 PM   #11875
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Had a great first meeting with my 1/12. Learned quite alot, but am only scratching the surface. It just shows how popular 1/12 is that I could go out and get 2nd in the country, although I did have some very good runs and really surprised myself. The next meeting I race 1/12th I'll make sure I have some decent motors and batteries on hand and maybe a new car. This class is awesome and its just about made me put my touring car on the shelf.
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Old 03-14-2005, 11:51 PM   #11876
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Quote:
Originally posted by crimson eagle
Hi Bill,

Will you be around for the last race of the year in a couple of weeks time?

Chris.
Chris,

Should be there for both classes...Have to work on that harder track...For me.

Just found that I had yet another defective "lowered side pod". It's got a loose fit at the right axle height adjuster...Again.

May go skiing this weekend.

Bill
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Old 03-15-2005, 06:43 AM   #11877
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David Root,
How are you setting toe on your 1/12th.

Blake
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Old 03-15-2005, 09:17 AM   #11878
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Any body know witch parts and from who that are on Mike Blackstock's car in the rear on the left side and top plate,

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Old 03-15-2005, 09:23 AM   #11879
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those are yokomo parts arnt they?
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Old 03-15-2005, 09:49 AM   #11880
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Any part nr ?
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