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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-13-2005, 10:48 AM   #11836
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I'll take A look at some speedo's.
I guess it's going to be the GTX, QC2 or the VFS 1...
I know all three are very good.
And that I prefer the VFS 1, cause I'm already using the helios and the 949 servo and I like them very much.
But I'll see how the others are.
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Old 03-13-2005, 01:00 PM   #11837
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Hi all,
Just started to race a 12th scale on carpet , CRC carpetknife 3.2R but im having problems with the setup the car leans into the corners but tends to like shimmy about as if its loading up on the side springs ( tweak springs ) and bouching back ? . Im thinking that this could be something to do with the side damper tubes . I have put the white cap CRC lube in and am running the red side springs. I cant get hold of any blue top CRC lube so if i need to change things can something else be sugested.
Thanks for any help.

12th newbie
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Old 03-13-2005, 03:45 PM   #11838
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Same car same meeting same problems

ALSO a noob with the 12th

I could also do with alittle guidence on parma tires .......

when the grip is low do i run

Pink/magenta combo or
Grey/Purple or have i got it all wrong on the combo's anyway ??

i was told run the pink and magenta's early in the meeting but i must admit i changed after only round 2 to the grey/purple and felt the car had far more grip !! (this is the opposite to what i was lead to believe would happen )

I think Russ also wants to know if there's something easy to get hold of that would act like the blue cap side damper oil (as we can't get that in England yet )
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Old 03-13-2005, 04:59 PM   #11839
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Merciless...
I like starting the day with magenta rears and purple fronts... Then go from there. I think the purple fronts may heat up and gain traction, but the magenta or plaid fronts have a slight push all the time and don't feel as consistant. I don't like the pink rears, too soft and not enough side bite. I run magents rears.
Wayne
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Old 03-13-2005, 05:03 PM   #11840
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You can order the BLUE CAP damper fluid straight from CRC. They don't list it on the website, but I ordered two bottles from John at CRC. It is definitely thicker than the other two options (RED and WHITE).

Hope this helps.

JB

Quote:
Originally posted by Merciless
Same car same meeting same problems

ALSO a noob with the 12th

I could also do with alittle guidence on parma tires .......

when the grip is low do i run

Pink/magenta combo or
Grey/Purple or have i got it all wrong on the combo's anyway ??

i was told run the pink and magenta's early in the meeting but i must admit i changed after only round 2 to the grey/purple and felt the car had far more grip !! (this is the opposite to what i was lead to believe would happen )

I think Russ also wants to know if there's something easy to get hold of that would act like the blue cap side damper oil (as we can't get that in England yet )
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Old 03-13-2005, 06:11 PM   #11841
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You can use stealth diff lube. Clean the tubed out with a Q tip when you change lubes. 100 wt shock oil is thin, if you can find 3000 or 5000 Wt diff lube they use in an 1/8 scale, it will be close too. You might need stiffer front springs. are you using .020s?

I use the diff lube, but I have it in 3 different viscosities.

David Root
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Old 03-13-2005, 06:35 PM   #11842
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does crc and associated use the same front springs?
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Old 03-13-2005, 06:41 PM   #11843
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Yes they do...
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Old 03-13-2005, 07:45 PM   #11844
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quote:
Originally posted by Drew_Cat
hey Allen, you don't need the regulator...I checked the voltage after a 8min run and it's ok....
just repeak after the race and store @ full charge.

Quote:
Originally posted by TheTurtleMan
So what the scoop. Do you need a regulator for these? And how many runs are you getting out of a pack before you need to recharge.
Thanks.............
Again...
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Old 03-14-2005, 01:15 AM   #11845
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Thanks guys for the replies,

So 3000wt or maybe 5000wt oil works ok ??

And with the tires pinks are no good

I was thinking over night and and word for how the rear end felt or what it was doing would be chattering if that helps ??

.020 front springs yes
ass. blue center
red side springs
white cap damper fluid

parma greys on the rear and purples on the front

Cheers
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Old 03-14-2005, 01:24 AM   #11846
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Are you allowed to use traction compound in the UK? If not that could be the problem.

We aren't allowed to here so we use Frewer silvers on the back and purple on the front, they offer heaps of grip with no traction compound.

I know I tried Grey/Purple here and it was not good, but if you can use traction compound you're all good
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Old 03-14-2005, 01:30 AM   #11847
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yes we can use traction compounds but they are limited types.

I use jack the gripper (purple writing on the silver can)

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Old 03-14-2005, 05:07 AM   #11848
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Merciless..
Can you run Niftech tire traction? I've tried them all and that has good bite and is legal at all the tracks here. One thing you have to watch for with the Parma fronts, they are WIDER then CRC or others. I had to narrow mine 3/16" to get a good feel for my driving style. They had too much grab at the stock width. Then with the rears, you may have to adjust the rear width of the car. They're offset is different then CRC and the width of the rear changes. The Parma tires are not bad, you just need to find what suites your driving style. I run CRC tires and love them.
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Old 03-14-2005, 08:04 AM   #11849
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Default 3700 battery

They allowed 3600/3700 batteries for the California Carpet Championships at Stockton; so, I ran a GP3700 in my stocker 12L4 in the last qualifier and race.

In comparison to more talented racers, I am a hack (not hacker) at 12th scale; but, still finished 4th...One spot out of the awards.

After the race, the 3700 still had 233 seconds of run time when I discharged it at 20 amps. Geeze!

Must say that I am pretty dang happy with this new battery. Mod class guys shouldn't be dumping so much with these puppies.
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Old 03-14-2005, 08:27 AM   #11850
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TheTurtleman.... I should be getting my pack this week, I haven't gotten to run it yet.... I can't answer for Drew though and I didn't see him this weekend....

I'll give you weights and my thoughts on running as soon as I get it and get to run it....
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